Shopsmith Forums

Thanks for those photos. That may be better to buy than make, but I have to try my hand at it first.

Thanks for the photo. Now I get the idea.

Nope! Shouldn't take too long by hand!:rolleyes: I can make it long before I can find an extra $20 for part and shipping. I make as much as I can because I am underpaid and have 2 little kids, and need to make do when I can. I don't try to make anything that it critical, but once I get this SS work...

Measure the opening, and draw a circle on a sheet of aluminum and carefully cutout with a jeweler's sawframe, and then sand close to the line. Fit, sand, fit, sand, until snug. Then layout a cut for the bandsaw blade to be fed through to be installed. Seems fairly simple to me. Oh, maybe a groove ar...

I am a trained Goldsmith/Jeweler/Hand Engraver/Lapidary - I think I can make a disk of alumunim that'll fit nicely, thank you.

My table is aluminum, and only about 14" sq. (just guessing). And I like to have a larger table, but the extra table saw table (also aluminum, with a fence) may be a problem with the length of the drive coupler, and height orientation to the motor. I'll photo chronicle the retro-fit if it is fe...

How do the spring clips engage, if I was to fabricate one myself? Can someone post a photo of the older style? Thanks.

I'll have plenty of questions as time goes on, I am sure.

I looked briefly at this post, and my idea would be to use the entire table from the table saw, and not have to cut anything complicated, just create the slot for the bandsaw blade installation and the mounting holes. I'll look into this more on Sunday when I have a day off of work.

I just acquired an older Mark V, and the bandsaw needs some work. The insert for table is non existent, and measures 2.5". I can make one of aluminum sheet stock, but does it need to be really tight fiiting so it won't wobble around when sawing? Do the originals have screws to keep them oriente...