Shopsmith Forums

Tom from Woodshop Nerdery posted a video on YouTube where he used tool box drawer liner as a pad replacement. In addition to replacing the pads he added a “ heel” to one of his pushblocks. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AceTAfItf48 That is a cool idea, just got a little project for today, thanks.

As an update, the mouse pad material seems to be the trick. I found these desktop mouse pads at Wal-Mart. Cleaned the old stuff off and scuffed the block with 180 grit and used spray adhesive to attach the new material and trimmed it with a razor knife. Push Block 3.jpg Push Block 4.jpg Came out great

Mouse Pads, who would have thought, but they actually sound perfect. I was thinking 3M super 77 or super 90 adhesive

The bottom of a couple of my old Shopsmith push blocks are deteriorating. Has anyone redone them? If so, what did you use?

This one is not terrible This one is toast...

I want to thank everyone for all the help. As I switch to learning how to use this, this thread will likely go dormant. To close it out, I thought I'd post this, I found my father's purchase invoice. Dated March of 1983, for the "show price" of $1214.00. Thanks again. John Invoice (2).jpg

I wanted to thank everyone, some time in a vice working out the twist/bend and some work with that adjustment screw on the lower guard and its all lined up. Thanks again

John

Two separate issues. First, it is possible the riving knife part of the upper saw guard could get bent or twisted, in which case getting the riving knife properly aligned to the blade will be impossible until the riving knife is straightened/flattened/replaced. Second, even with a straight/flat riv...

Original ? was regarding it varying with table height adjustment. Gotta ask if table is square to the blade. It really seems the riving knife was bent. With the table low, for a thicker cut, it wasn’t an issue and I didn’t notice it. I was trying to cut some thin stock and the knife was far enough ...

If this is a 510 and on version(?), there is a 'stop screw' alignment for the lower saw guard. Not exactly precise because you have to remove the lower saw guard to get to it. It is located just below where the guard mounts to the quill. I feel like this should work assuming everything is straight....

As an update, I got the clear guard off ( they hid that allen screw pretty good) and have managed to bend it a bit closer. how is everyone else. Is 'pretty close' the norm?