Shopsmith Forums

Not that I know. Burs are not a problem nor are set screw dimples. The burs can be removed and the dimples don't affect anything normally. Just try and rotate the collar back and forth and pull on the shaft. That will wear down the bur. and then the collar can be pulled off. The bur is on the shaft...

Ok, the snap ring is off, various parts off the front side, spring tension released. I can't get the collar off the back side (the one circled below). It's loose. I pulled the set screw out and it appears there may be a burr on the shaft from the set screw. I can move the collar around in all direct...

Ok, I was about to ask if I could remove the pinion shaft first. I'll give that a try. Looks like I just need to remove the snap ring, then I can start pulling parts (loosening set screws on collars) and pull the shaft out. Correct?

jsburger wrote: Just wire it as you know with the 3 wire grounded cord grounded to the motor mount.

Ok, sounds like a plan.

Just take the quill completely out and clean and polish everything and you should have no problems. The spring is another thing so if there is an issue come back and ask. Remember these are 65+ year old machines. They should be completely disassembled and cleaned at the minimum. I also replace the ...

I'm trying to clean up the headstock on my 10ER that has been sitting unused for about 15 years. When I started working on it last weekend, it took a fair bit of effort to get the quill moving, but I got it to where I could move it in and out. Today I was going to take it all the way out to see abou...

I don't think there was any strain relief originally since the Model 10's were sold without a motor. It was up to the user. However a strain relief is absolutely a good idea. It is a bit hard to see in the picture but I just use a zip tie to the motor mount. I was thinking a loop clamp or something...

Since the 10E/10ER have exposed wiring, I would use a segment of the extension cord up and back, and switch both sides, cutting the ground at the switch and heat shrink the wires breaking out at both ends. The motor mount bars will ground the case and you can more easily remove, service the motor o...

Ok, that makes sense. Looks like a good easy spot to run the ground to. I suppose a 65 year old switch might not be so desireable, so if this isn't original that's fine. Was there originally some sort of strain releif on the power cord? Mine just runs right up to the back or the switch with no strai...

Ok, I'll pick up an extension cord and use it to rewire. Just bypass the switch with the ground wire?

It'll be on a GFCI protected circuit in the garage. So no problem there.