Shopsmith Forums

kmilesone wrote: ↑Mon Feb 26, 2024 9:11 am I have 10 and only need three I'm willing to share if needed.

I think Gerick may have purchased some shaft material, and you have some bearings that he needs, maybe PM him and work out a trade?

Mike -

JPG is in the process of sending me some shaft material, 1045 stress proof I believe is what he sourced. Let me give it a try and see how it goes. It should be pretty easy to make the shaft using the double eclip method and no acme threading. I will post up some pics when I get into it.

Mike

Sure JPG, I can make you one. PM me.
Mike

Good info JPG, they cut the keyway using a slitting saw or keyway cutter, thus the reason for the keyway going past the dimple hole. It does a better job than using an end mill. Yes, my two idler shafts do not have outer eclips and I suspect as you noted they are really intended to be thread relief....

JPG, you are correct. I pulled my idler to have a better look. It would be far easier to just make a new one than deal with the tolerancing of a split sleeve and a fix for that eclip groove. I believe it is only a piece of 5/8" ground drill rod, and I just happen to have a 1/8" keyway cutt...

I have a lathe and a mill and would be happy to help, but I don't have any experience with an epoxy style fix. I would assume it would need to be turned down considerably in order to get a decent build up thickness, and probably would need to knurl it for epoxy adhesion? If it was my problem, I migh...

Nice, I will keep in mind the ptfe dry lube. Good tip. Very complicated switch, glad you were able to repair yours.

Mike

At the time I did mine I didn't even consider conductivity. Good point Buckeye. I just wanted a dry lubricant because anything else is somewhat sticky and wouldn't slide as well. Also sawdust will eventually stick to any grease/oil like lubricant. I only put it between the plates and haven't had any...

I opened my switch as I really had no other options. There are 3 sliding plates (boards you called them) in there in a specific order, don't mix up the order. I put powdered graphite between each plate as I reassembled. There is a picture on my post linked above of the opened switch. The powdered gr...

I have to agree with JPG, on my MarkVII it was a poor contact in the switch. I have the same motor. Here is a link to my posts with wiring to the switch explained https://forum.shopsmith.com/viewtopic.php?t=24293. You can disconnect the switch from the motor and apply power to the motor leads direct...