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Miter gauge feet/sliders

bpress1954

The Shopsmith miter gauge has 2 nylon "feet" for lack of a better term that keep it level on the table. I thought these were adjustable with the hex tool or a flathead screwdriver, but I can't get either of them to turn. You can clearly see threads in the hole. One of the feet has moved above the surface of the gauge, so it rocks slightly on the table. I seem to recall reading a long time ago about how to adjust them, but I can't get them to move with either the hex tool or a flathead. Any suggestions/tips? Thanks

dusty

Yes, they should be adjustable. How to make them so -- no suggestions.

DLB

bpress1954 wrote The Shopsmith miter gauge has 2 nylon "feet" for lack of a better term that keep it level on the table. I thought these were adjustable with the hex tool or a flathead screwdriver, but I can't get either of them to turn. You can clearly see threads in the hole. One of the feet has moved above the surface of the gauge, so it rocks slightly on the table. I seem to recall reading a long time ago about how to adjust them, but I can't get them to move with either the hex tool or a flathead. Any suggestions/tips? Thanks

There are two (at least) types. But it sounds like you have tried both of the methods I know. The flat head type is adjusted from the bottom using a screwdriver, the other is adjusted from the top, IIRC standard SS 5/32" hex. Sometimes there is a setscrew in the way to access from the top. How old is your machine? Can you post a pic of your miter gauge from the bottom?

Correction - My old ones adjust from the top using a small flathead screwdriver, not a hex as I previously said. This is on a '57 Greenie. The others I've seen use a large flathead to adjust from the bottom.

- David

JPG

The older with nylon screws are adjusted from the two threaded bores that may also have a 5/16-18 set screw that is used to secure the cross cut stop rod. It requires a small diameter shaft on the screw driver(must slip through the 5/16" threads). The screws are set screws(no head) and are slotted. They have a very small footprint on the bottom.

chapmanruss

David and JPG are both correct in-so-far as there are two different types of glides and the set screw type used slotted not hex early on. A picture of the two Miter Glide types is shown below. If your glides are the set screw type, shown on the right, do make sure the set screws for locking the Miter Gaage Stop Rod is removed first. They sit above the glides in the threaded hole and are generally Allen/hex set screws.. If you have an early Mark 5 try a standard screw driver first or if you have a later Mark V try an Allen Wrench first. The Allen Wrench size for both the stop rod set screws and the glides should be 5/32". I have found them stripped out before and had to remove them like a stripped screw. They are nylon so much easier than removing a metal stripped screw. The set screw type can be found at some larger hardware stores having a good selection of nuts, bolts, washers, etc. The type of glide on the left is, of course, slotted which is exposed.

Miter Glides.jpg

bpress1954

Mine is the one on the right. I have tried various methods but still cannot get them to turn. I'm going to see about removing them as suggested and see about replacing them. Thanks all.

bpress1954

My machine was purchased in 1982 so I don't know if that classifies it as "early."

JPG

IF your is the one on the right in de pix, then it is early enough!

JPG

JPG wrote IF your is the one on the right in de pix, then it is early enough!

You are dealing with a plastic(deforms under stress) and they tend to get stuck. The 'slot' is thick so a mating screwdriver is unlikely. Try to find one that is both small enough to reach the screw slot and thick enough to fill the slot and wide enough to transfer the torque. I have one modified for this purpose.(1/4" round shank and ground down(thick) tip).

DLB

bpress1954 wrote Mine is the one on the right. I have tried various methods but still cannot get them to turn. I'm going to see about removing them as suggested and see about replacing them. Thanks all.

You might also try some penetrating oil like liquid wrench. One of mine was stuck and that helped. The custom screwdriver JPG mentioned sounds like a good idea.

- David

bpress1954

I just put some WD40 on it and I'm letting it soak. I have a screwdriver that will fit, but I looked in the hole with magnifying glass and I don't see a slot. The mystery deepens.

edma194

The slot or hex hole may have been stripped out. I have a tiny screwdriver that has an augur head that I've used to turn them. Maybe a sheet metal screw would work. Something just has to dig into the plastic to turn it.

bpress1954

It's doubtful that the slot is stripped because I bought this machine new and I have only adjusted them once, but thanks for your input. I think they are just stuck in the hole.

JPG

My experience is that they require more torque than one would expect, especially when 'new'..

chapmanruss

JPG is correct. Because they are nylon and not metal they can have a much tighter fit. A good thing for keeping them in place but a bad thing when it comes time to adjust or remove them.

miken

bpress1954 wrote . . . but I looked in the hole with magnifying glass and I don't see a slot. The mystery deepens.

The slots in mine were filled with some crud. Fill the hole with wd40 then blast it with compressed air a few times. Should clean out enough gunk so you can feel the screwdriver fall into the slot. Push in hard when turning so you don't strip the slot.

Mike