Shopsmith Forums

Clearly I just spent too long trying to win a jointer off ebay (finally won one today for $158.95 + shipping after bidding on others since last year without a win) that wasn't already rusty. The before and after photos in this teardown are incredible. I didn't know that level of change was possible with just some solution and a stainless steel brush.

pieceseeker wrote:I have access to a press and many different bearing pullers at my work. I may take a closer look once I'm done with cleaning and waxing.

The bearings are quit close to the cutters. Not just any puller will work. Something is needed to get in behind the bearing to pull on.

Tools. It's all about tools. You can do anything with the right tools.

The cleanup effort is going great. Good job.

Thanks for the generous comments!


A little more detail on the cleaning process I used, for anyone interested.


1. The surface needing rust removal needs to be submerged overnight or several hours

2. Use a stainless steel brush to knock off any remaining heavy rust while still
in the EvapoRust tub(whatever you're using) so you can rinse off before
removal.
3. Rinse part in a bucket of water and rag, brush, whatever.

4. Dry immediately with paper towel and heat gun

5. Large flat surfaces, like the jointer, secure on table. Use Greased Lightning,
Purple Power, Spray Nine, or like degreaser and scrub vigorously with
stainless steel brush to remove any rust stains remaining.
6. Dry and wipe clean with Laquer Thinner.

7. Cast iron will take more wax than other parts because of its porosity. Apply 1 heavy coat of JPW, let dry completely

8. Apply 2nd heavy coat of JPW and dry completely

9. buff out and enjoy the fruits of your labor

The 2 extra holes you wondered about are there to attach the dust chute to the main assembly.

bhurley wrote:The 2 extra holes you wondered about are there to attach the dust chute to the main assembly.

Hey thanks! I kinda figured that after looking at the jointer upgrade section on SS and seeing the dust shute and where it mounts.

I have only done one jointer and I held the cutter head in a padded vice and using two pry bars, one behind each side of a bearing, I gave a swift downward pull of the prybars and the bearing flew across the garage. They come off very easily barring any rust or corrosion.
Bill V

wa2crk wrote:I have only done one jointer and I held the cutter head in a padded vice and using two pry bars, one behind each bearing, I gave a swift downward pull of the prybars and the bearing flew across the garage. They come off very easily barring any rust or corrosion.
Bill V

I am happy for you:). I didn't have that same success:(. My bearings were harder to remove and I bent the shaft trying. I got to buy a new cutter head:(.

dusty wrote:I am happy for you:). I didn't have that same success:(. My bearings were harder to remove and I bent the shaft trying. I got to buy a new cutter head:(.

I think it may be 6 of one case and a half dozen of another. My bearings were very loose and came off fairly easily. The bearings must have gotten frozen and the inner face slid on the shaft. I later found the shaft had been compromised enough by the old bearings and I also had to eventually replace the cutter head - along with new bearings - again.

I should know that I always wind up paying the "Piper"!

Well, today I took the cutter head to work with me and figured out a way to pull the bearings and bearing caps. To my surprise, it was extremely easy!

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Just used my handy dandy puller set from Harbour Freight.

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To my amazement, the cap pulled off with just my hand turning the pressure screw!

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Bearing cap removed, now for the bearing!

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Again, to my amazement, it too came off with only my hand turning the screw!

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Finally, the stubby end. There is no shaft to push against. I mounted the bearing puller on that end and was able to just tap it off with a small hammer.

I certainly thought these bearings would be pressed on with a little more force than that.


I think that if the cutter was inserted in a soft-jawed vise and a u-shaped plate of metal was inserted behind the bearing or cap, that tapping on that would also remove them.

Certainly they will be able to be tapped on with the appropriate sized sockets, tubing, whatever.

I really think that with such a light press fit that if a bearing got bad enough and suddenly froze, it would badly gall the shafts on the cutter head making it not serviceable.

That makes me think one should really pay close attention to sound changes unloaded or under load on your machines.

Now its time to order new bearings.

Bearing # KOYO EE4S Z JAPAN

Can you believe it? SS wants $54 and change for each bearing cap! I wasn't going to buy those anyway, or at least I really don't need them. Now, I really really don't need them.

I could buy 2 sets of knives for that price.

Also ordered the dust shute retrofit.

Ordered bearings at $19 + shipping, not too bad considering I really couldn't find direct matches anywhere online. The main difference I found was the internal clearance in the bearing(looser or tighter). SS bearing had no code for that which denotes "standard", the only ones I found were a "C3" code, which denotes larger clearance than standard.

I though better to at least stick to OEM if nothing better or higher performance can be found.