The Ultimate Sawsmith Radial Arm Saw Thread

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TempleGuard
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Re: The Ultimate Sawsmith Radial Arm Saw Thread

Post by TempleGuard »

Hi All,

I found a 1959 Yuba on Craigslist near me just recently, and this thread has been extremely informative and entertaining. I've loved reading about what the saw can do and how to restore it.

I'm planning to buy the saw I found on Craigslist, and I have three questions:

It is possible to use a 10" blade with a 5/8" arbor? I've seen several posts with links to Shopsmith's special blades, but I'm wondering if can use the garden variety blades from Home Depot.

Has anyone found good replacement drive belts? After doing some looking and googling, I found a link belt that claims to replace the Sawsmith drive belt: https://beltpalace.com/blinkbelt.html. Does anyone have experience with this? Does it look feasible?

Has anyone had good success with replacement coiled cords? I've seen that some have used a Grainger cord successfully (https://www.grainger.com/product/POWER- ... with-3AY42), but I've also seen comments that this cord hasn't worked. I did watch the video shared on how to make a coiled cord, and I'm confident I can make a custom cord using that method if necessary.

Other than the cord and drive belt, it looks like the parts needed to repair/restore the saw are available or should be hardy enough to last if they're on the saw already.

I'd be most grateful for any help, and I've already learned a lot reading through this thread. I'd also be completely open to any other tips or advice.

Thanks much!

Zach
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JPG
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Re: The Ultimate Sawsmith Radial Arm Saw Thread

Post by JPG »

Wasn't the saw smith a 9" blade?
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Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10
E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
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BuckeyeDennis
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Re: The Ultimate Sawsmith Radial Arm Saw Thread

Post by BuckeyeDennis »

According to the 1964 owners manual (linked to in the first post of this thread), you can use either a 9” or 10” blade. The larger blade will give more depth of cut, of course. On most small RAS’s, torque to cut with the larger blade may be marginal. But with the Sawsmith, you can reduce the speed, which will boost the cutting torque proportionally. I’d go with a 10” thin-kerf blade, as 9” blades are scarce these days.

On page 12 of the same manual, under the Arbors section, it says that you need a 1-1/4” arbor to use Shopsmith blades, but that “some accessories” can be mounted directly on the 5/8” spindle shaft, using the supplied nut and washer. If you have those (the nut is probably left-hand threaded), I’d bet that you can use a standard 5/8” bore saw blade.

However, you don’t want to use just any blade on a RAS. Using the wrong blade is a major reason that they developed a reputation for being unreasonably dangerous. A typical tablesaw blade has an aggressive positive tooth hook, which on a RAS can contribute to the blade “climbing” the workpiece and running out toward the operator. (This problem is excarbated by poor structural rigidity on some saws — I’m not sure how the Sawsmith compares on that front.) Chop-saw blades typically don’t have enough hook, and perform very poorly for ripping on a RAS.

On the DeWalt radial arm saw forum, the top-rated RAS blade is the Forrest Woodworker I TCG (Mr. Sawdust) blade. This universal blade gives excellent results on every cut you can do on a RAS. You can order directly from Forrest, but they have new sales personnel who will probably try to sell you their standard Woodworker I ATB blade instead. It’s easier to order from Slivers Mill.

https://www.sliversmill.com/category_1_ ... ker_I.html

The next-best, and considerably less expensive, blade is the the Freud LU83R, available from Amazon.

Conventional wisdom says that RAS blades should have a negative hook angle. But testing done in cooperation with Forrest determined that a small positive hook is ideal.
TempleGuard
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Re: The Ultimate Sawsmith Radial Arm Saw Thread

Post by TempleGuard »

Wow, thanks so much! I really appreciate your explanation and recommendation on the blade. I'll look into that if I can get the saw.

I've seen on other forums where guys have had a machinist reproduce the LH and RH threaded nuts for mounting blades. I'll check into that as well if needed (I'm still trying to acquire the saw, and I haven't seen it in person yet).
Bhillin
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Re: The Ultimate Sawsmith Radial Arm Saw Thread

Post by Bhillin »

Hey guys...I have a saw smith radial arm saw that is in good condition..as with most I've seen it needs a drive belt...it is just the saw with no stand. It needs a new home with someone who will enjoy it. I live in Buna Tx. Or I will have it at Canton Trade Days at the end of November. Open to any offers.... Barry 409-289-3650
delong94
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Re: The Ultimate Sawsmith Radial Arm Saw Thread

Post by delong94 »

What size capacitor does the Sawsmith use? I'm looking at one tomorrow and it may need one. The current owner says it powers on but the blade will not turn. I'm guessing it is the capacitor and in need of a good cleaning. Thanks.
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JPG
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Re: The Ultimate Sawsmith Radial Arm Saw Thread

Post by JPG »

I would be more suspicious of the start switch. Does not run = great price reduction bargaining factor.
╔═══╗
╟JPG ╢
╚═══╝

Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10
E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
delong94
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Re: The Ultimate Sawsmith Radial Arm Saw Thread

Post by delong94 »

Thanks.

The switch works and power goes to the motor assembly. You can hear the motor wanting to turn. I did find capacitor on line. The original was a Mepco/Centralab brand. 243-292 MFD, 110 VAC, 60Hz. My biggest concern now is getting the arbor off the saw. It is stuck.
delong94
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Re: The Ultimate Sawsmith Radial Arm Saw Thread

Post by delong94 »

JPG wrote: Sun Mar 07, 2021 11:26 pm I would be more suspicious of the start switch. Does not run = great price reduction bargaining factor.
I picked up the saw for $75. If I can't get it running, the stand and parts are worth that. It also had the "add a tool" accessory. I probably wont use it since I have a Shop Smith and a power station.
Here’s my SawSmith
Here’s my SawSmith
3285B513-8479-4638-BBAF-C5B43AA0CDCC.jpeg (205.51 KiB) Viewed 2736 times
Last edited by delong94 on Tue Mar 23, 2021 2:39 pm, edited 1 time in total.
delong94
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Re: The Ultimate Sawsmith Radial Arm Saw Thread

Post by delong94 »

Anyone have a extra 5/8 inch left hand spindle nut and washer for the SawSmith? Mine did not have any with it. It is Part numbers 503306 and 504553 according to the parts list.
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