556416 drill press vise kit

Forum for Maintenance and Repair topics. Feel free to ask questions or contribute.

Moderators: HopefulSSer, admin

User avatar
eagleta2
Gold Member
Posts: 195
Joined: Sat Jun 13, 2009 3:24 pm
Location: Ahwatukee (Phoenix), AZ

556416 drill press vise kit

Post by eagleta2 »

So, I ordered the vise kit for a Christmas gift to myself and it arrived...less the tee nuts needed to attach it to the table. Really? The tee nuts are backordered?

Can anyone offer any ideas of where to find these or where I can purchase alternates?
I'd like to use the vise by attaching it to the table in the miter gauge slots.

Appreciate any help you can offer

Thanks
Geo
User avatar
JPG
Platinum Member
Posts: 34608
Joined: Wed Dec 10, 2008 7:42 pm
Location: Lexington, Ky (TAMECAT territory)

Post by JPG »

Make some. Hardwood and either tapped or a t-nut.
╔═══╗
╟JPG ╢
╚═══╝

Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10
E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
User avatar
JPG
Platinum Member
Posts: 34608
Joined: Wed Dec 10, 2008 7:42 pm
Location: Lexington, Ky (TAMECAT territory)

Post by JPG »

Add a 'drilled washer' to the parts list!;)

[ATTACH]23708[/ATTACH]
Attachments
tnuts ala jpg.jpg
tnuts ala jpg.jpg (484.2 KiB) Viewed 1984 times
╔═══╗
╟JPG ╢
╚═══╝

Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10
E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
charlese
Platinum Member
Posts: 7501
Joined: Fri Dec 08, 2006 10:46 pm
Location: Lancaster, CA

Post by charlese »

Can you borrow two SS tee-nuts from another attachment? Rockler T nuts will work with some modification. (shortening and a new nut)

Toilet bowl nuts will work, but you'll have to cut them down.
Octogenarian's have an earned right to be a curmudgeon.
Chuck in Lancaster, CA
User avatar
benush26
Platinum Member
Posts: 1104
Joined: Mon Mar 19, 2012 7:06 pm
Location: Montana

Post by benush26 »

My version of the Sliding T-slot

Besides being cheap, why did I start this? I bought the Shopsmith version of the Kreg bandsaw fence. I did NOT buy the fence resaw guide from Shopsmith :eek: . Since the Shopsmith fence is NOT Kreg's the Amazon purchased genuine Kreg guide attachment holes do NOT line up :( :confused: . I knew I would have to drill new holes amd buy sliding T-lot thingies, but rather than spending $11 plus postage for the T-slides, I figured I'd just make a custom sliding T-nut for that guide. Then I started thinking (yes I know that's dangerous!! You've all told me that before :rolleyes: ) how much it would be nice to have CHEAP permanent t-nuts for jigs yet born. I find that I have a want for large quantities of the sliding T-nuts, however at over $5 a pop (and me being danged cheap ) I thought there had to be a better way.

I've just (Wednesday) ordered 12 feet of 1/8 x 7/8 cold rolled steel (3 four foot pieces) for $20 (Ebay) I had asked a local supply house but they call it a special order meaning LARGE amounts of cash especially shipping.

-Cut the metal bar into approximately 3" strips. Probably narrow each end to facilitate use (though that isn't shown on the drawing)
-Drill a hole with a diameter larger than the bolt to be used, but small enough that the nut can still set firmly on the flat surface.
-Epoxy appropriate jam nuts 1/4 - 20, 3/8 - 16 (jam nits are thinner so should allow clearance without grinding the top surface). Thread the jam nut far enough so that enough bolt will protrude through the strip such that you can get a nut on the opposite side to ho center the nut and hold it while the epoxy sets (or if you are really ambitious I guess you could spot weld it!)
-I will paint each one with epoxy paint to prevent rusting. A different color for each size

With more than 40 I should have enough for any jig, fence and whim until June :D .

[ATTACH]23711[/ATTACH]

I'll make a few with nuts on each end, utilizing set screws and attach a solid 3/16" metal bar in the middle to use magnetic clamps on Magswitch and similar devices. Move the bar in place and set screws to push until the bar is snug enough not to move. I might have to grind down the top surface a 64th or so to get a flush fit. Nope, no drawing, Just close your eyes and imagine!

I know I could have used aluminum for the bottom bar but as long as i smooth (round) the ends and edges of the bar I don't think they will gall the table slot. I considered buying 1/8" x 1" and sawing / sanding it to exact width to fit the miter slot (and maybe for some jig I might), but simply, I figured that a little slop (3/64" if my measurements are close) was no big deal. I was using the bolt and threaded knob to snug the bar UP to the bottom of the slot.


Be well,
Ben
Attachments
tslide.jpg
tslide.jpg (39.89 KiB) Viewed 1948 times
User avatar
JPG
Platinum Member
Posts: 34608
Joined: Wed Dec 10, 2008 7:42 pm
Location: Lexington, Ky (TAMECAT territory)

Post by JPG »

I like that!

'Food fer thought'.

Add a 5/8" bar on top. secure to 'bottom' bar(head in the bottom surface) with csink screws(or tension pins, or rivets or ???).

Drill and tap the paired bars as the SS nuts.

Hot rolled bar stock would likely be easier to procure.
╔═══╗
╟JPG ╢
╚═══╝

Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10
E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
User avatar
benush26
Platinum Member
Posts: 1104
Joined: Mon Mar 19, 2012 7:06 pm
Location: Montana

Post by benush26 »

JPG40504 wrote:I like that!

'Food fer thought'.

Add a 5/8" bar on top. secure to 'bottom' bar(head in the bottom surface) with csink screws(or tension pins, or rivets or ???).

Drill and tap the paired bars as the SS nuts.

Hot rolled bar stock would likely be easier to procure.
First mental design was exactly that. Then I realized the thickness of the bottom piece was of more concern to me than the portion that fits in the miter slot. The next thought was that it would be much easier to buy nuts and glue or weld them to a bar, rather than drill and tap that much material. Last was to eliminate tapping entirely by just drilling a hole large enough in the flat bar that the shaft of the bolt could not be affected.
I've come to understand that my design process is to use as many steps and parts as possible to increase the complexity and failure rate(s), THEN start eliminating the not needed until the simplest reveals itself.

Hot rolled and cold rolled would have both been a special order through a local supply house. I found the bar on EBay for signicantly less than what the local supplier quoted (much less than half with shipping), so ordered it. I did consider aluminum. In fact it was my first choice. The local HD has 1/8" x 1" so it would be easy to trim to size, but most interested in having the bulk be steel so I can use the Maglock pieces I have for my table saw to supplement SS fences, etc.
As a steel assembly, I could tack weld, however the epoxy I have for metal has 2500 psi holding on clean aluminum (presume steel is reasonably similar) which works out to about 300 psi for the surface area of one side of the nut. Hopefully that will be enough. I'll build a few and test. If it happens that the epoxy is not strong enough then I'll pull out the welder.

Hoping for warm weather when the steel comes so that I can cut the bars to length and drill them. Right now it is 45 degrees here. Warmth in Montana in January! Who'd a thunk it! Handling freezing cold steel in a freezing cold garage is definitely not high on my list! :eek: I can bring everything inside to assemble.

Be well,
Ben
User avatar
JPG
Platinum Member
Posts: 34608
Joined: Wed Dec 10, 2008 7:42 pm
Location: Lexington, Ky (TAMECAT territory)

Post by JPG »

benush26 wrote:First mental design was exactly that. Then I realized the thickness of the bottom piece was of more concern to me than the portion that fits in the miter slot. The next thought was that it would be much easier to buy nuts and glue or weld them to a bar, rather than drill and tap that much material. Last was to eliminate tapping entirely by just drilling a hole large enough in the flat bar that the shaft of the bolt could not be affected.
I've come to understand that my design process is to use as many steps and parts as possible to increase the complexity and failure rate(s), THEN start eliminating the not needed until the simplest reveals itself.

Hot rolled and cold rolled would have both been a special order through a local supply house. I found the bar on EBay for signicantly less than what the local supplier quoted (much less than half with shipping), so ordered it. I did consider aluminum. In fact it was my first choice. The local HD has 1/8" x 1" so it would be easy to trim to size, but most interested in having the bulk be steel so I can use the Maglock pieces I have for my table saw to supplement SS fences, etc.
As a steel assembly, I could tack weld, however the epoxy I have for metal has 2500 psi holding on clean aluminum (presume steel is reasonably similar) which works out to about 300 psi for the surface area of one side of the nut. Hopefully that will be enough. I'll build a few and test. If it happens that the epoxy is not strong enough then I'll pull out the welder.

Hoping for warm weather when the steel comes so that I can cut the bars to length and drill them. Right now it is 45 degrees here. Warmth in Montana in January! Who'd a thunk it! Handling freezing cold steel in a freezing cold garage is definitely not high on my list! :eek: I can bring everything inside to assemble.

Be well,
Ben
My 'thinking' was that tapping through both 1/8" bars would yield 1/4" of threads(5 full threads rather than 2 1/2).:)

Not sure what the threads are in the oem version, but AIUI there are two closer to the ends with smaller threads and they could all three be included.

You have more faith in the epoxy than I!;)
╔═══╗
╟JPG ╢
╚═══╝

Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10
E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
User avatar
benush26
Platinum Member
Posts: 1104
Joined: Mon Mar 19, 2012 7:06 pm
Location: Montana

Post by benush26 »

[quote="JPG40504"]My 'thinking' was that tapping through both 1/8" bars would yield 1/4" of threads(5 full threads rather than 2 1/2).:)

Not sure what the threads are in the oem version, but AIUI there are two closer to the ends with smaller threads and they could all three be included.

You have more faith in the epoxy than I!]

More threads should be better, however not knowing the amount of tension I will be applying has me believing that a manufactured nut should be sufficient. If strength of the nut or the bolt becomes a consideration I could use grade 8.

The OEM tapped threads at the two ends are 1/4 - 20 while the center is 3/8 - 16.

I'll do some testing to check out the epoxy before I try any jigs that might cause major injury if they would fail. A mechanic friend has a 6 ton press that can be configured to pull as well as press. He also has a meter that is used to determine breaking strength.

I too am certain regarding the epoxy. Quick tests will help determine it's suitability. I have a MIG welder that if needed I can use to tack weld the nuts to the bar. If I add another bar to fill up the depth and width of the miter slot, I will probably just weld it, but still just have nuts tack welded at the ends. Can you tell that I really don't like drilling and tapping? :rolleyes:

I do like the OEM units. I had a conversation with Doug Reid regarding how much I like the SS pieces. They are a nice addition and well designed, but at their cost plus shipping, I'd rather spend my SS money on other items that are unique to SS, not something readily made that have the same function

For me, the reality is that I can fabricate forty plus for the same cost as four from SS, as well as tailor them to my specific need(s) If I had a perceived need for only 4, I would just buy them. However, I've found that as lazy as I am, I like the idea of having enough that I do not have to find them and switch them for each fence extension and jig.

This spring as the weather warms, I'll make a few and report. I still have to create the Sketchup drawing for the horizontal micro adjuster with better pictures (both simple versions and since Forrest likes it so much maybe I should patent the idea! :) ) and build my wood working bench. I'm also taking Dusty's suggestion to heart and will add a T-track to the right side of the main table. It may be superfluous, but I like the idea of something level with the table which will allow me to clamp and such without attaching it to the fence.

A final comment (for this moment) on "building extras" for the Shopsmith. Though I had not consciously realized it until a few days ago, one of my favorite perceived benefits of the Shopsmith is how it can be modified, upgraded and tinkered with "by the user". It is not the be all and end all of wood working toys, but it IS a good solid platform which can be left alone or enhanced, as envisioned by it's user. Very Cool!:cool: :D
User avatar
JPG
Platinum Member
Posts: 34608
Joined: Wed Dec 10, 2008 7:42 pm
Location: Lexington, Ky (TAMECAT territory)

Post by JPG »

benush26 wrote:More threads should be better, however not knowing the amount of tension I will be applying has me believing that a manufactured nut should be sufficient. If strength of the nut or the bolt becomes a consideration I could use grade 8.

The OEM tapped threads at the two ends are 1/4 - 20 while the center is 3/8 - 16.

I'll do some testing to check out the epoxy before I try any jigs that might cause major injury if they would fail. A mechanic friend has a 6 ton press that can be configured to pull as well as press. He also has a meter that is used to determine breaking strength.

I too am certain regarding the epoxy. Quick tests will help determine it's suitability. I have a MIG welder that if needed I can use to tack weld the nuts to the bar. If I add another bar to fill up the depth and width of the miter slot, I will probably just weld it, but still just have nuts tack welded at the ends. Can you tell that I really don't like drilling and tapping? :rolleyes:

I do like the OEM units. I had a conversation with Doug Reid regarding how much I like the SS pieces. They are a nice addition and well designed, but at their cost plus shipping, I'd rather spend my SS money on other items that are unique to SS, not something readily made that have the same function

For me, the reality is that I can fabricate forty plus for the same cost as four from SS, as well as tailor them to my specific need(s) If I had a perceived need for only 4, I would just buy them. However, I've found that as lazy as I am, I like the idea of having enough that I do not have to find them and switch them for each fence extension and jig.

This spring as the weather warms, I'll make a few and report. I still have to create the Sketchup drawing for the horizontal micro adjuster with better pictures (both simple versions and since Forrest likes it so much maybe I should patent the idea! :) ) and build my wood working bench. I'm also taking Dusty's suggestion to heart and will add a T-track to the right side of the main table. It may be superfluous, but I like the idea of something level with the table which will allow me to clamp and such without attaching it to the fence.

A final comment (for this moment) on "building extras" for the Shopsmith. Though I had not consciously realized it until a few days ago, one of my favorite perceived benefits of the Shopsmith is how it can be modified, upgraded and tinkered with "by the user". It is not the be all and end all of wood working toys, but it IS a good solid platform which can be left alone or enhanced, as envisioned by it's user. Very Cool!:cool: :D
Rock on!!!!!!!!!!!!:)
╔═══╗
╟JPG ╢
╚═══╝

Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10
E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
Post Reply