Mark 5 fixup

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shopsmithpaul
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Re: Mark 5 fixup

Post by shopsmithpaul »

Dave, I used to repair headstocks at one of the old SS stores and I have seen a lot worse. All the grunge can be cleaned up. Two other thoughts is the poly v drive to me seems to run smoother and more quiet. Also it would be a bit of a misfortune if you got it all back together and had an old bearing start squalling. I would guess the motor is original.

If you want to keep the price down I believe one of the forum members has refurbished parts. Since I am new to the forum not sure, but I think his name is Bill M. and lives in florida. I know others could verify that.

Gotta go to work so I will check your progress after midnight. I always liked bringing those old machines back to life.

Paul
510, bandsaw, jointer, belt sander, jointmatic
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billmayo
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Re: Mark 5 fixup

Post by billmayo »

Yes, I have some extra reconditioned Shopsmith parts that I use for rebuilding headstocks for my customers. I clean and reface all of the sheaves to remove any scratches, nicks and worn areas. I use a new bearing if needed after insuring I have room to stake the bearing in the control sheave. I normally machine an additional .030" to 050" deeper for the staking for the control sheave. I use higher quality bearings for the motor, quill and drive sleeve. Shipping the headstock can be quite expensive so if you can do the work yourself, you will save a lot. I have a rebuilt Gilmer drive sleeve assy with a tested clutch. I have a headstock rebuilding check list available if anyone is interested. I am happy to answer any Shopsmith questions.
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JPG
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Re: Mark 5 fixup

Post by JPG »

What grunge! That interior looks clean fer its age!!!

That motor is the correct age if not actually the 'original'.

That gilmer pulley on the main shaft is in decent condition. The bearings are replaceable. The gilmer belt fraying is likely caused by the belt riding to the rear of the pulley(caused by misalignment of the idler sheave pulley).

Slop in the quill splines is to be expected, but greasing will remove the noise if not the actual backlash.

Yes replacing the entire drive train will greatly improve it, but $$$$$$$$$$$$! :eek:

Not sure, but I believe a Gilmer idler sheave might fit onto a new design idler shaft.
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╟JPG ╢
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Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10
E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
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JPG
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Re: Mark 5 fixup

Post by JPG »

As for the speed control, two things jump out from your pix.

I agree the wear on the steel face of the porkchop is bad. More than likely the gear teeth on the other side as well. The porkchop is available from the mother ship by itself.

Second, the cause of the pork chop gear wear is the bent leg that repositioned the porkchop relative to the worm gear. That is restorable if done carefully. Bill Mayo has come up with a 'fix' that eliminates the tension pin and prevents the legs from separating.

Actual cause is forcing the speed control towards slow(the dreaded speed control damage admonished against).

Kudos on the pix.
╔═══╗
╟JPG ╢
╚═══╝

Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10
E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
DMcCam
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Re: Mark 5 fixup

Post by DMcCam »

billmayo wrote:Yes, I have some extra reconditioned Shopsmith parts that I use for rebuilding headstocks for my customers. I clean and reface all of the sheaves to remove any scratches, nicks and worn areas. I use a new bearing if needed after insuring I have room to stake the bearing in the control sheave. I normally machine an additional .030" to 050" deeper for the staking for the control sheave. I use higher quality bearings for the motor, quill and drive sleeve. Shipping the headstock can be quite expensive so if you can do the work yourself, you will save a lot. I have a rebuilt Gilmer drive sleeve assy with a tested clutch. I have a headstock rebuilding check list available if anyone is interested. I am happy to answer any Shopsmith questions.
Hi Bill, Sounds like you and I have to talk about some parts! Would you rebuild my parts or exchange them or both? I think I'm up to re-assembling and aligning the headstock. As I clean things up I'm sure my shopping list will grow. I'd like to save as much as possible without compromising safety or reasonable performance.
JPG wrote:Second, the cause of the pork chop gear wear is the bent leg that repositioned the porkchop relative to the worm gear. That is restorable if done carefully. Bill Mayo has come up with a 'fix' that eliminates the tension pin and prevents the legs from separating.
Thanks again JPG! Hey Bill, would you be so kind as to let me know what your 'fix' is for the Speed Control and costs?

You guys are great! Thank you very much for the help.
Dave
Reno, NV
Mark 5 "Greenie" SN 290470, Born March '55, Acquired April '11
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JPG
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Re: Mark 5 fixup

Post by JPG »

DMcCam wrote:
JPG wrote:Second, the cause of the pork chop gear wear is the bent leg that repositioned the porkchop relative to the worm gear. That is restorable if done carefully. Bill Mayo has come up with a 'fix' that eliminates the tension pin and prevents the legs from separating.
Thanks again JPG! Hey Bill, would you be so kind as to let me know what your 'fix' is for the Speed Control and costs?

You guys are great! Thank you very much for the help.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Shopsmith-Mark- ... 3cf091953e ;)
╔═══╗
╟JPG ╢
╚═══╝

Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10
E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
DMcCam
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Re: Mark 5 fixup

Post by DMcCam »

JPG wrote:That gilmer pulley on the main shaft is in decent condition. The bearings are replaceable.
Hi JPG,

The main shaft's bearings are in excellent condition! if the gilmer pully is usable, then the main shaft assembly is good to go?
M5_13.jpg
M5_13.jpg (149.24 KiB) Viewed 3545 times
M5_14.jpg
M5_14.jpg (95.69 KiB) Viewed 3545 times
What do you think?
Dave
Reno, NV
Mark 5 "Greenie" SN 290470, Born March '55, Acquired April '11
DMcCam
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Re: Mark 5 fixup

Post by DMcCam »

A quick update. I received my refurbished Speed Control Knob this weekend and boy does he do a great job! I can't wait to see it working on the restored headstock.
M5_19.jpg
M5_19.jpg (209 KiB) Viewed 3545 times
M5_18.jpg
M5_18.jpg (127 KiB) Viewed 3545 times
Dave
Reno, NV
Mark 5 "Greenie" SN 290470, Born March '55, Acquired April '11
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billmayo
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Re: Mark 5 fixup

Post by billmayo »

DMcCam wrote:
JPG wrote:That gilmer pulley on the main shaft is in decent condition. The bearings are replaceable.
Hi JPG,

The main shaft's bearings are in excellent condition! if the gilmer pully is usable, then the main shaft assembly is good to go?
M5_13.jpg
M5_14.jpg
What do you think?
The Gilmer teeth wear is about average so I would reuse the pulley and replace the Gilmer belt. I find that when the Gilmer clutch set screw does not line up with the flat on the end of the drive sleeve, the set screw has become loosen. I would align the set screw with the flat and see how easy it is to slip the clutch. I try for 12 to 16 pds of torque to slip the clutch. You want to make sure the Gilmer belt is riding at least a 1/16" or more off the back edge of the clutch teeth. I sometimes have to move the idler shaft bearing within the eccentric bushing to achieve this clearance.
DMcCam
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Re: Mark 5 fixup

Post by DMcCam »

billmayo wrote:The Gilmer teeth wear is about average so I would reuse the pulley and replace the Gilmer belt. I find that when the Gilmer clutch set screw does not line up with the flat on the end of the drive sleeve, the set screw has become loosen. I would align the set screw with the flat and see how easy it is to slip the clutch. I try for 12 to 16 pds of torque to slip the clutch. You want to make sure the Gilmer belt is riding at least a 1/16" or more off the back edge of the clutch teeth. I sometimes have to move the idler shaft bearing within the eccentric bushing to achieve this clearance.
Thank you so much Bill. I'll give this a go when it's time to put this little beastie back together. Are you offering another of your 'Shopsmith Mark V Headstock Improvement/Rebuilding Kit's' soon? I missed the last one by a couple of hours.

All the Best,

Dave
Dave
Reno, NV
Mark 5 "Greenie" SN 290470, Born March '55, Acquired April '11
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