Bandsaw Questions

[lalkie01]

I have the model 505641 bandsaw serial 121490 and continually have difficulty setting it up with the 1/8 inch blades. Not so much with the 5/8 blade. I am continually grasping the top wheel to get the blade to track properly. The upper wheel bearing appears to be in good shape. I have read the bandsaw manual and am aware of most of the set up procedures.

Why does the lower guide bearing not contact the back of the blade? It is about .250 inches from the blade.
Will the upgrade 555074 help with the problem?
Thanks Larry

[JPG]

Is it also clearing the backup bearing?

[lalkie01]

I am not sure what you mean by clearing. The bearing is about 1/4 inches away from the back of the blade. It does not appear to touch the blade any time wile sawing. Larry

[lalkie01]

I probably misunderstood. It is riding in the track of the bearing that is behind the cover. That part seems to be working correctly. Larry

[JPG]

There are three bearings that relate to blade travel.

The upper rear guide bearing(inside the cover) positions the back of the blade onto the upper wheel. The back of the blade rides against it.

The lower guide bearing(under the table) does the same thing for positioning the blade onto the lower wheel.

The backup bearing(above the table) only contacts the blade when pressure is applied(when sawing).

Only the backup bearing is adjustable(towards/away from the back of the blade).

The design of the SS bandsaw precludes the need for any adjustment when changing blade sizes.

So which bearing has this 1/4" clearance?

I asked about the backup bearing clearance since if it is adjusted too far out it could possibly prevent the blade from contacting the lower guide bearing. I would adjust the backup bearing back away from the blade so as to NOT touch the blade and see if the blade then contacts the lower guide bearing.

A pix of the offending bearing might help understanding.

[lalkie01]

The lower guide bearing is about 1/4 inch from the back of the blade. Larry

[benush26]

Hi Larry:
In years past I’ve cut a significant number of bf using the 1/8” blade. Though the SS bandsaw is decent when using down to 1/4”, in its stock form, it’s not great for 1/8” and narrower blades. You can increase the tension but the blade will still wander off track. My first change was to the blue urethane tires. It does help, but you will still need to stop and readjust about every 20’ of cut. Pain in the backside but it will work.
A couple questions. First are you doing mostly sharp radius curves? Then Carter has a guide which does not enclose the sides of the blade, but has a nice groove for the back of the blade to ride. The bottom guides are eliminated.
Next question, is this your main use blade? If it is then I’d suggest replacing the stock guides with Carters ball bearing guide system. Pricey, but once adjusted gives fantastic results.
I wax lucky enough to find bargains for band saws so I have three. One set up using the Kreg fence system and Carter guides for resawing and long straight cuts using a blade designed for resawing. A second bandsaw that uses the Carter top guide and a 1/16” blade for long work that is not conducive to scroll saws and a third used strictly for cutting steel.
Unfortunately when using narrower blades, without making some changes to the stock SS configuration, you will need to pull the cover to readjust the blade position on the top wheel. I doubt that I still have the emails from SS tech that eventually told me I’d need to do the same.
There might be some better results out there, but my path eventually led to aftermarket upgrades.
Hope that helps.

Be well,
Ben

[JPG]

The lower guide bearing is about 1/4 inch from the back of the blade. Larry

Now is the backup bearing(above the table) cleared away from the blade also?

And how far from the back edge of the upper wheel tire is the back of the blade?

[lalkie01]

The bearing under the table is the one I am having difficulty getting to work correctly. I think I have the problem solved. The I finally got the bearing under the table contacting the back of the blade by moving the blade toward the back of the top wheel. I then adjusted the bearing above the table by tilting the bearing holder toward the bearing and it contact just as I start sawing. The bearings under the cover are just touching as the saw is turned on. It appears to be working pretty well but I expect it to be a high maintenance issue. I don't use the narrow blades much but want them to work when I do. Most of the time I use the saw for resawing with a 5/8 blade. I did call Shopsmith and was told the bearing under the table was not designed to contact the back of the blade. When I ask why it was put on the saw she said she would have an engineer call me. No one ever did. I appreciate the comments and help. Larry

[JPG]

The bearing under the table is the one I am having difficulty getting to work correctly. I think I have the problem solved. The I finally got the bearing under the table contacting the back of the blade by moving the blade toward the back of the top wheel. I then adjusted the bearing above the table by tilting the bearing holder toward the bearing and it contact just as I start sawing. The bearings under the cover are just touching as the saw is turned on. It appears to be working pretty well but I expect it to be a high maintenance issue. I don't use the narrow blades much but want them to work when I do. Most of the time I use the saw for resawing with a 5/8 blade. I did call Shopsmith and was told the bearing under the table was not designed to contact the back of the blade. When I ask why it was put on the saw she said she would have an engineer call me. No one ever did. I appreciate the comments and help. Larry

GOOD GRIEF!!!!!!!!

That IS it's specific purpose!

I suspected that the upper backup bearing was adjusted out too far and that was pushing the blade out away from the lower guide bearing.

I assume you 'moved the blade on the top wheel' by backing off the upper backup bearing.

Another suspect was too much cant. That is why I inquired about the blade position on the upper wheel.

It should be the same at all points the blade rides on the wheel.(i.e. the same at the back where the blade first contacts the upper wheel and around to where the blade last contacts the upper wheel at the front). It should not be skewed on the wheel.