play in quill
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play in quill
Hi folks, Winter is here and back to woodworking. I have notices a bit of in/out play in my quill on my Mark V. Serial #27235. I am not sure of the year. I purchased the unit not running the sheave was frozen and it had broken the pork chop clip. My memory is slipping but I think I ordered a double bearing quill and installed when I was doing the other repair. The unit is running fine. I have noticed a slight be of in/out movement in the quill when I have the unit set up for table saw. I can move the saw blade maybe a 1/32" or less in and out. It could have been that way for a long time and I have just now noticed it or something else may have happened. I am wondering if maybe there was a shim I missed when reassembly. Any ideas? Thanks Bob
Re: play in quill
Some amount of play is in my experience normal or at least unavoidable.
I don't think it will have an impact on your work. If you have doubts, set up a cross cut and rip cut to a particular width, make your cuts and check the dimensions with a micrometer. I think you'll find you can make repeatable cuts accurate down to the thousandths of an inch even with the play.
I don't think it will have an impact on your work. If you have doubts, set up a cross cut and rip cut to a particular width, make your cuts and check the dimensions with a micrometer. I think you'll find you can make repeatable cuts accurate down to the thousandths of an inch even with the play.
Gale's Law: The bigger the woodworking project, the less the mistakes show in any photo taken far enough away to show the entire project!
Re: play in quill
I think I found my problem. The front lock cylinder was out a little bit. I double checked and I didn't replace the single bearing with the double. Maybe I should do that but the machine seems to run great and the cuts are pretty accurate. Maybe I will dig out my '57 Greeny and upgrade it and start. using it more.
Re: play in quill
what have you done to test the quill?
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- JPG
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Re: play in quill
The knurled collar provides a method of minimizing in/out play.
Loosen the knob, pull out on the quill shaft and press in on the collar and tighten the setscrew.
A third hand is helpful!
Loosen the knob, pull out on the quill shaft and press in on the collar and tighten the setscrew.
A third hand is helpful!
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Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
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Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
- shopsmithpaul
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Re: play in quill
That sounds like a lot of play. There is usually a shim or 2 behind the quill bearing so that when the large snap ring is inserted in the groove the bearing fits snug and does not move in and out. On my double bearing quill I went a step further and installed a wave washer behind the rear bearing and have no play at all. It is much like what you will find in many motors.
510, bandsaw, jointer, belt sander, jointmatic
- JPG
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Re: play in quill
True, but it is the quill shaft sliding in the inner bearing race that is the more likely culprit and it is that which the collar positioning can minimize.shopsmithpaul wrote:That sounds like a lot of play. There is usually a shim or 2 behind the quill bearing so that when the large snap ring is inserted in the groove the bearing fits snug and does not move in and out. On my double bearing quill I went a step further and installed a wave washer behind the rear bearing and have no play at all. It is much like what you will find in many motors.
A wave washer is essentially a spring that can cause end play if the spring force is exceeded.
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Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
╟JPG ╢
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Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
Re: play in quill
I removed the quill and all looked good. I could feel no movement in the bearing. I adjusted the knurled knob and that seemed to correct the issue. My concern now is if I should upgrade to a two bearing. I thought sure I had upgraded or the guy I punchased the machine from told me he had but it is a one bearing. It does a good job and I have never had a problem so I am not sure it is worth the $100 or so. Merry Christmas
to all.
to all.
- JPG
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- Joined: Wed Dec 10, 2008 7:42 pm
- Location: Lexington, Ky (TAMECAT territory)
Re: play in quill
If it ain't broke, do not try to fix it.
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╟JPG ╢
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Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
╟JPG ╢
╚═══╝
Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
Re: play in quill
Well, I thought I owed the group an update. After a week or so I rechecked the in/out movement of the quill and it was back. Not horrible but I cold feel movement. I finically pulled the quill again and I think the play is in the bearing. It didn't seem noisy but there is definitely lateral movement. I was all geared up to order a MKC 2 bearing quill and something in the back of my head told me to look around. First I pulled the quill from my Greenie and checked it. It was a single bearing. Next I went through a box of old parts and there was a Mark V quill. I knocked it apart and it is a two bearing in good shape. Cleaned it up and installed. Problem solved. I can't remember where I came up with the two bearing but glad I found it. For now problem solved.
I did notice the bearing in the Greenie was pretty stiff. I hit it with a bit of oil on both sides and rotated and it freed up. Put it back together and it runs good. It is actually quieter and smoother than the newer machine. Not sure why. I should probably replace the bearing in the Greenie or upgrade to the double bearing. Bob
I did notice the bearing in the Greenie was pretty stiff. I hit it with a bit of oil on both sides and rotated and it freed up. Put it back together and it runs good. It is actually quieter and smoother than the newer machine. Not sure why. I should probably replace the bearing in the Greenie or upgrade to the double bearing. Bob