Need help on how get started!!!!

[Vetwoodrestore]

New SS owner of a 510 (1999) and a 500 (1982 got it for parts).


I oiled the 2 shaft locations as stated to be done every 10 hr of operation an ectra.
How do you know if your belts need replaced, mine look new. I dont hear a belt sound when it runs unlike the 500.
Anyone have a diagram for a storage system that attaches to the legs of the SS, I have seen ones with all kinds like cabinets but I like one more like 45 degree shelves to hold essentials.

I have band saw from 500 that I will use on the 510. It has no poly wheel and what are the oil points

I have scroll saw from 500 that I will use on the 510. Lools like alot of damage took seal off metal shavings inside some plastic thing is in parts. I like to know what I should do or best route.

Pictures are ro large to post I will have to resize them an then post.

Thanks

[everettdavis]

If your belt is physically in good shape, shows no signs of belt set, and is 1/2" wide measured across the face, you are good to go, with one caveat: pay a lot of attention to the small button bearing mounted in the end of the control sheave.

After you have run the machine for a few minutes to warm the bearing, put 10 to 12 drops of oil in the upper control sheave's oil hole, then take it to drill press position leaving it overnight to cool.

The oil will run down the shaft, to the back side (inner most side) of the bearing and rest on it allowing the bearing to pull in a small amount of lubricant as it cools.

Aside from lubrication, read about waxing the system with Johnson's paste wax.

Many folks are still unaware of the extent of free resources available to them through direct Shopsmith offerings on-line such as those at http://www.shopsmith.com/academy/introduction.htm

That's where the Power Tool Woodworking For Everyone most current release for Mark 510 and up are used for illustrations.

By all means, review my good friend and mentor, JPG's post at https://www.shopsmith.com/ss_forum/view ... 362#p82362

Blessings,

Everett

[Vetwoodrestore]

Thanks for that I will do that today.

I dont use pastwax, I make my own with beeswax for all my tools.

Is there upgraded belts that are more efficient like those linked belts vs. Traditional one?

[chapmanruss]

I don't know how your Bees wax formula compares to paste furniture wax but you may want to reconsider. Using Paste Furniture Wax like Johnson Original or Minwax provides two functions. It provides protection against rust and provides lubrication of the moving parts. That lubrication is an important function for the Way Tubes and other moving parts that are waxed. Do not use car wax or spray furniture polish. Car wax, although it offers good protection for metal it is extremely hard and has little value as a lubricant. Spray furniture polish isn’t hard enough.

As for the belt, I would stick to the factory belt.

You had questions about the Band Saw and Scroll Saw. Do you have the manuals for either one? That would be the place to start for servicing them. If not you can get replacement manuals from Shopsmith. You can purchase the Scroll Saw Manual on this website. The current Band Saw manual is available as a PDF at the link below. The internal parts are basically the same since the introduction in the 1950's only the Table and the cover plus it's attachment has changed. There is an upgraded Guide Back-up Roller Retrofit kit which could be a good service to do if your Band Saw is an older one. Check your guides to see if they turn freely. If not replace them.

https://www.shopsmith.com/ownersite/manuals/845539.pdf

[everettdavis]

Not from Shopsmith. I’ve seen them used on the open pulley 10E and 10ER versions that predated Mark V

I have seen well maintained machines go 40 years with the original belt.

If you read through the speed control adjustment process, the outer edge of the belt is used as a reference setting it up.

I don’t know how one might go about that with a segmented belt. Trial and error with a tachometer I suppose.

Kindest Regards,

Everett

[P89DC]

...The current Band Saw...internal parts are basically the same since the introduction in the 1950's only the Table and the cover plus it's attachment has changed....

Older bandsaws have bushing bearings for the guides. At some point Shopsmith switched to cartridge ball bearings in all three guides. I bought a bs from ~1980 and it had bushing bearings. I upgraded it to cartridge balls bearing and it works great. (Blue tyres and a dust chute finish off a great modernazation. )

[Vetwoodrestore]

Ok then I stick with oem belts, some guy is selling both belts for $30 new. I keep them on the side till I need them.

[Vetwoodrestore]

The blue aftermarket ones not the red ones ss sells?
Mine in from 1981 so I assume I will do that upgrade then as well, do you think the new cover is worth it with access an clear panel?

[Vetwoodrestore]

I use a mixture I learned from my grandfather of beeswax, mineral oil, and pure not box store bought boiled linseed oil. When mixed right it's amazing, I personally dont like pastwax. All of my 100+ year old tools get this on them 1 time a year for the most part.

[jsburger]

The blue aftermarket ones not the red ones ss sells?
Mine in from 1981 so I assume I will do that upgrade then as well, do you think the new cover is worth it with access an clear panel?

The new cover is absolutely worth it. You can adjust the blade tension without removing the cover. You should release the tension on the blade when you get done for the day so it should always need to be re-tensioned.

However, you don't need to buy the new cover. I modified mine. Drill a hole for the tension screw and cut an opening for the tension scale. I super glued a piece of plexiglass to the inside of the cover. It has been there for over 10 years.