New member and new owner

[sansoo22]

I recently purchases a couple Shop Smith tools. The first being a 1989 over arm pin router that came complete near as I can tell. I will be placing the upper assembly on to a custom cabinet so the stand will be available in the near future if anyone is interested.

pin router.jpg (451.04 KiB) Viewed 9880 times

The second is a one owner Model 10ER built in 1952 I'm told. Below is a pic of everything that came with the purchase. The whole thing was picked up for $200 bucks including the full set of 1950s craftsman lathe chisels.

actual model 10er.jpg (628.26 KiB) Viewed 9880 times

So far everything on this 10ER is working great. It definitely needs a new belt. I found one on MKC Tools but if there are better places to get one let me know. The only troubling issue I have is some rattling sound coming from the head stock pulley. I took the cover off to eliminate that as a cause and its definitely right at the head stock pulley. From the videos i've watched and reading ive done there are 2 bearings in the head stock but neither is at the pulley so I'm not sure what to do next.

[chapmanruss]

Welcome to the Shopsmith Forum. Your Shopsmith additions will be a very useful addition to your shop. I do not have an Over Arm Pin Router so I will let those who have them answer any questions you may have. As for the Model 10ER I know those very well. I have restored 19 Model 10E and 10ER Shopsmiths and have 3 others I am working on. Looking at the picture of the 10ER you have I would say you got a very good deal. It looks pretty complete as it came from the factory plus a few extras.

As for replacing the belt, Skip at MKC Tools is fairly reasonable and sells the cogged style belt. These seem to have a little better grip than the standard belts. You can pick up a standard 4L380 Belt at most auto parts stores and some have the cogged style too.

If the rattling noise you are hearing is coming from the bearings there are two on the drive sleeve just inside the Headstock. There are two more bearings inside the Quill Assembly. These bearings, if original, at about 67 years old get dried out and worn and most need replacing by now. With the belt off turn the drive shaft pulley to see how freely it turns. If you also remove the Quill Assembly you can check each pair of bearings individually. Drive Sleeve Assembly and Quill Assembly.

Is the Owners Manual inside the envelope? If not you can download a PDF copy of the Manual From this site. Look under the Maintenance and Repair section for Shopsmith Large Format Drawings, Illustrations and More by Everett Davis. This will be one of the first three topics. In it you will find a wealth of information on the Shopsmith tools. Some are directly linked there and others are on “My Google Drive” with documents too large to be directly linked. Everett has become the Shopsmith historian by saving and restoring manuals and other documents. On the google drive you will find a section for Model 10 and in it a restored PDF of the Model 10ER Manual. While on Everett's google drive look at the restored book PDF for Power Tool Woodworking for Everyone 1st Edition. In it is a lot of information on using the Shopsmith Model 10's.

Attached is a PDF supplement for the Model 10 Manuals I recommend you add to you manual

Waxing Supplement Model 10s.pdf

(226.53 KiB) Downloaded 1033 times

If you have any questions about your new to you Shopsmith tools just ask.

[sansoo22]

Thank you very much for the guidance. Every video I found so far was regarding the quill bearings only. Hence why I assumed there was only 2. Didn't know there was a second set of bearings just inside the head stock. I would almost bet those are the culprit. But may as well disassemble the whole thing and replace all 4 bearings.

And yes the original owners manual is in the envelope. I have yet to open it because its looking pretty old and brittle. Thanks for the info on getting the restored manuals. I'm soon mounting a 42" TV with a laptop hooked to it for the express purpose of using digital manuals.

Now off to research how the head stock bearings are changed!!

Edit: Forgot to ask if Renaissance Wax is suitable for these machines? I've seen it recommended on the forums to only use Johnsons Original but I find Renaissance wax to be superior to Johnsons when im restoring old Stanley and Miller Falls hand planes.

[P89DC]

Edit: Forgot to ask if Renaissance Wax is suitable for these machines? I've seen it recommended on the forums to only use Johnsons Original but I find Renaissance wax to be superior to Johnsons when im restoring old Stanley and Miller Falls hand planes.

Well, it has a Royal Warrant so it must be better! I can't imagine it will damage anything if Johnson's Paste Wax doesn't hurt it. The claim is that JPW is based on carnuba and parrifin waxes that can become acidic over time. The microcrystalline wax in Renaissance doesn't become acidic.

JPW cost ~$0.40/oz
Renaissance wax cost ~$3.70/oz

If it's microcrystalline wax you crave there are cheaper alternatives that don't support the Queen with annual payments. EJ Wheaton is less than half the cost and it's made in America.

[chapmanruss]

Replacing the bearings is best done using a press. There are ways to do it without one but care must be taken to use the correct diameter tubes against the bearings with gentle tapping when seating the new bearings in place.

If you have not taken the Quill out of the Headstock yet, use care not to just let go of the Quill Advance Handle as the Quill disengages from the Pinion Gear. Unwind the spring tension by hand to avoid damage.

[sansoo22]

Regarding wax I have used EJ Wheaton and still prefer the Queen's version. That being said this thing has a whole lot more surface area to wax than even a Stanley No 8 so saving a few bucks is well worth it. I had honestly forgotten about Wheaton so thank you for the reminder.

I've had the quill out and definitely remembered to rewind the tension by hand all the way until it stopped. The piece I'm not sure how to remove is the tail shaft where the rear pulley mounts. The pulley was easy to take off. Loosen set screw and pull it off by hand. My owners manual shows the tail shaft is rather short with just a couple bearings and a spacer. With the quill out can i simply use a dowel and a mallet to tap the tail shaft out?

Once both are out im taking them to a machine shop to have new bearings pressed since i dont own one. I know i can do it without one but id rather throw a few bucks at someone else to do it right.

[JPG]

Loosen the set screw that retains the 'spacer'.

[chapmanruss]

Loosen or remove the set screw on the back side of the headstock. You can use a dowel small enough in diameter to tap against the outer ring of the bearing, top, bottom and sides but not hit the end of the Drive Sleave. Some will come out easily but most have never been removed and need a little help coming out. Wood against the bearings outer ring is better than harder materials. Stay away from the center Drive Shaft so as not to damage the splines. Also if the bearing are still good, which is rare for original bearings, this will lessen the possibility of damaging them.

[sansoo22]

Thanks chapmanruss. The set screw is out, getting cleaned, and oiled. I didn't know if I could used a large wooden dowel or needed a smaller one. I will check if i have any oak dowels left long enough.

I don't really care if the bearings die in the process. One of them is dragging anyway. I'm guessing the 60+ yrs of wood dust and oil has created a very nice seal around those bearings. I cleaned most of it and got in with my picks but still no go. Will work my way around the bearings with a dowel and see how that goes.

[sansoo22]

Guess I forgot to hit submit the other the day on my response. Anyway tail shaft is out. Small dowel method didnt work so well. That thing was quite stuck. Ended up using a dowel bigger than the splines and drilling a recess so i was only making contact to the bearings. That and a dead blow took it out real fast.

I'm taking everything to my brothers house for bearing work i think. He has a small bench top press we will try. If it becomes to difficult i will take it to a machine shop.

Only remaining question I have left is how best to clean the paint? I've been using an assortment of brass cup brushes on my cordless drill and taking very very light passes. It is getting most of the gunk out of the rough textured paint but not all of it. Degreaser gets some more out if out but I still have spots that are dingy looking id like to get cleaned up.

Thanks