Rip fence locking action not right... (I think)

[JPG]

There is a set screw method when you pull the old rust bucket home, find a set screw, see that you can square this particular fence to the blade with it then skip that part of the documentation because you have a new method for squaring the fence.
That flat head screw there is an after market addition by the previous owner for locking the set screw in place so it doesn’t back out.

There are likely other ways to incorrectly adjust fence alignment, but they also are not a good idea.

Again the set screw is NOT there to adjust fence alignment, but rather is there to intemtionally off set it for use with the disc sander. Hence the added screw is redundant. When NOT biasing the fence that set screw should be backed out(or removed).

[pronosoft]

I think I may know why your rear lock tab isn't engaging properly ... is the FRONT locking tab inserted into the channel, or outside of the channel? It should be IN. When placing the fence on the table, first insert the front locking tab into the channel or guide rail. Then push the fence tight against the front rail. Then turn the knob to tighten the rear tab. Here is what my rear locking tab looks like when loose and when tightened.

[sesh]

Thanks but, let's stay on topic here. The offset by the set screw was covered already and should have it's own thread if it doesn't already. If people want to learn how to joint the edge of a board with the sander by offsetting the fence they can read the manual. This isn't the thread for that. No one is saying you should use such a rough blade on a multi thousand dollar tool that you have to fill the air with sawdust and leave more swirl marks just to take the rough off; Not to mention using a better or top of the line blade and using the same method as well as jointing at all with it. If you want to, go for it. This ain't the thread for that. It doesn't say anywhere in the header of this thread that anyone is wondering about reasons to do this or the methods needed to do it efficiently. Fence alignment is covered in the manual and the method for doing it is like 90 percent of fence alignments on the market. If someone wants to learn about fence alignment they can use the search bar in the Forum header. I am always parallel to my miter slots. There are more than one method that work for aligning the fence and reasons that methods recommended won't. But, this is not the thread for that.

[sesh]

I'll keep working at it and post a fix for anyone in the future with the same problem.

[JPG]

Thanks but, let's stay on topic here. The offset by the set screw was covered already and should have it's own thread if it doesn't already. If people want to learn how to joint the edge of a board with the sander by offsetting the fence they can read the manual. This isn't the thread for that. No one is saying you should use such a rough blade on a multi thousand dollar tool that you have to fill the air with sawdust and leave more swirl marks just to take the rough off; Not to mention using a better or top of the line blade and using the same method as well as jointing at all with it. If you want to, go for it. This ain't the thread for that. It doesn't say anywhere in the header of this thread that anyone is wondering about reasons to do this or the methods needed to do it efficiently. Fence alignment is covered in the manual and the method for doing it is like 90 percent of fence alignments on the market. If someone wants to learn about fence alignment they can use the search bar in the Forum header. I am always parallel to my miter slots. There are more than one method that work for aligning the fence and reasons that methods recommended won't. But, this is not the thread for that.

The topic here is "Rip fence locking action not right... (I think)"

Since the presence of a protruding set screw will affect that it's inclusion in this thread is appropriate.

Since earlier posts in this thread by the creator of this thread mentioned that there WAS a set screw method of alignment it would be remiss of those who know that is a misconception to simply ignore that and not provide to the confused person who made those incorrect statements sufficient knowledge of why those incorrect statements were indeed incorrect and at the same time impart the correct purpose of the set screw as a bonus.

There are several here who willingly share their knowledge and they do so with no expectation other than the satisfaction of being able 'to help' those who ask. Sometimes new knowledge is gained through that collective effort.

The bottom line here is listen to the messenger and gain from that.

Unfortunately there are some who are defensive at having their misconception corrected.

Those who have been following this thread are still awaiting an understanding of why the original problem exists and what is necessary to correct it. Something is not 'normal'.

Now let us get back to the 'problem' at hand.

[reible]

It occurs to me that the problem has been the fence when in fact it takes two to tango and there could be an issue with the table. Not saying there is but it is the other part of the contact.

Now I don't own nor have I ever owned this version of shopsmith but is there anyway the table could have a part of the blame for this issue?

Ed

[JPG]

It occurs to me that the problem has been the fence when in fact it takes two to tango and there could be an issue with the table. Not saying there is but it is the other part of the contact.

Now I don't own nor have I ever owned this version of shopsmith but is there anyway the table could have a part of the blame for this issue?

Ed

The fence is a greenie and as such has a front rail that is cast into the table(not an add on extrusion like later models).

Referring back to the earlier picture, another 'thing' cropped up.

Sesh apparently modified the base casting to bottom out against the rail. That was never the design intention. The bottom edge of the fence base casting was beveled with the intent for that to mate against the bevel on the bottom of the table rail. That pix shows the fence base casting clearing the table rail bevel completely(at least it appears so).

Now that would move the fence towards the rear thus possibly causing the original problem(also moves pivot to the rear and requiring clamp to rotate further*), but in doing so has compromised the alignment function of the base casting.

I wonder what other modifications may have been made to cause the initial problem.

At the least it should be considered that the base casting needs to be replaced. Likely easier to just get a used fence.

* that seems counter-intuitive so may not be cause of the clamp interfering with the table top edge.

[JPG]

The rear clamp is NOT installed correctly.

both rear.jpg (145.74 KiB) Viewed 11651 times

The left is a properly operating Greenie fence that works correctly on a Greenie table.
The right is sesh's pix.

Note the difference of the rear clamp positioning.(camera angle is NOT a factor).

Notice the raised area on the inside face of the fence.

Note Sesh's is further forward in that area as well as laid back to the rear more.

I think this clearly substantiates the previous conclusion that the rear clamp is NOT pivoting correctly on the pin regardless of why.

Time to push the pin out and remove the clamp for closer inspection.

[br549]

Here is a link to a short video I made of my fence, showing how it clamps and unclamps, off the table and on the table. Mine is a Model Mark V (500), from 1980. I loosened the knob as far as I dared (until the end of the threaded rod was flush with the rear of the square nut) as a starting point for the off-table portion of the video. This allowed the sleeve to be exposed and visible at the knob end.
Maybe this will help sesh or others.
https://www.dropbox.com/s/ncw1pk8krnr7w ... o.mpg?dl=0
Another thread which recently had a new post includes a very thorough verbal description by JPG of how the fence operates.
https://www.shopsmith.com/ss_forum/main ... ml#p268231

(Edited 3/1/2023 to restore link to video on Dropbox)

[sesh]

Thanks everybody for chiming in. So, I checked the table and it's perfectly machined to spec at 14 x 18 3/8'ths. Even with modifying the fence base to sit flat against the rail (extending the distance between fence base contact with the front edge of the table to the rear locking tab) I saw minimal improvement i.e. the rear locking tab was still making contact high. The tab made even contact along its width against the rear table edge and it wasn't canted in any direction (canted forward left or right or canted sideways left to right) i.e. it was in a perfect plane to the rear edge of the table. My only speculations were shot down by probability (rear tab cast too thick, holes for rollpin drilled too far forward) I doubt it although, it wouldn't be the first time errors were made in a manufacturing plant. That being said, I made one last modification and that was thinning the contact face of the rear locking tab and because the aluminum casting was thinner, I placed the square nut against a washer outside of the ribs of the rear of the tab (so the nut wouldn't get pulled through the already thin aluminum) and now she makes contact where I want her and locks down perfectly. Will be buying that upgraded fence soon.