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Re: Craigslist find = New project 10ER
Posted: Wed Jul 01, 2020 11:58 am
by joebob80
chapmanruss wrote:joebob80,
I am glad to see your restoration coming along. Sorry I have not been on here but today is the first time I have caught up on reading these posts since returning from vacation. Ron, John and JPG seem to have the help you needed well in hand.
For the Miter, the spring can be replaced by finding one that fits. Just not to soft of a spring and could be cut to length if a longer one is found. The pin is the difficult replacement. If anyone wanted to make some I'm sure they would sell. I would buy one for the extra Miter I have that is missing it. As has been suggested Miters come up for sale often but generally complete ones. There were only two Miter versions that came with the Model 10's. Yours is the second and most common one.
The Tailstock Bolt comes up for sale once in awhile. You can use, as suggested, a regular bolt plus a washer, in the mean time. You could try contacting ebay sellers that regularly sell Shopsmith parts to see if they have one. Do get the one shown in Ron's pictures which does not block the Extension Table from being lowered all the way down.
No worries. Hopefully you had a good vacation! Others on the forum have been great responding to my never ending list of questions as you can see. As for the missing miter parts, I'm thinking of trying a spring and steel ball combo like what I found in my spare craftsman miter. It shouldn't be that hard to find them in 1/4" D.
Contact ebay seller for bolt - Done!
Re: Craigslist find = New project 10ER
Posted: Wed Jul 01, 2020 12:29 pm
by joebob80
Bearing Question - How much resistance should I feel when turning the spindle or motor by hand? Is there something I could compare it to? Like a miter saw?
They both take some effort to turn by hand with spindle having more resistance than the motor. I would think if there was a difference the motor should be harder to rotate considering the mass.
Re: Craigslist find = New project 10ER
Posted: Wed Jul 01, 2020 12:59 pm
by JPG
The effect the geater mass of the motor has is that it resists changes in motion(speed/direction). A motor should resist initial motion, but once moving the force to continue that motion is only due to frictional forces.
If you can turn either one with no feeling of resistance varying as it rotates should be good.
Re: Craigslist find = New project 10ER
Posted: Wed Jul 01, 2020 1:27 pm
by joebob80
Thanks JPG!
Re: Craigslist find = New project 10ER
Posted: Wed Jul 01, 2020 1:58 pm
by chapmanruss
When turned by hand they should turn smooth and freely. These tools are 70 years old give or take 3 years. Replacing the Quill and Drive bearings are commonly needed. In fact there has been only one Model 10 I restored that didn't need them. In that case I believe they were not the original bearings. Unless you want original Fafnir bearings you can get the correct size replacements from hogwinslow on ebay.
I do find it interesting that the motors do not need new bearings as often and I have not needed to replace that many. The A. O. Smith motors just seem to keep going and going. I even have two very early A. O. Smith motors (shown below) from My Shopsmith Model 10E's S/N 1033 and 1077 that the bearings are still good on. When you had the motor apart did you check to see how smoothly the bearings turned? That would be your best indicator.
- A O Smith 1-2 HP Motor early version r.jpg (160.27 KiB) Viewed 7087 times
Re: Craigslist find = New project 10ER
Posted: Wed Jul 01, 2020 10:49 pm
by joebob80
Miter update -
Here is what I ended up using.
1/4" diameter steel ball
<1/4" diameter spring cut to length. I went with a stiff spring so the ball sits in the hole and doesn't try and shoot out.
Re: Craigslist find = New project 10ER
Posted: Thu Jul 02, 2020 11:32 am
by joebob80
chapmanruss wrote:When turned by hand they should turn smooth and freely. These tools are 70 years old give or take 3 years. Replacing the Quill and Drive bearings are commonly needed. In fact there has been only one Model 10 I restored that didn't need them. In that case I believe they were not the original bearings. Unless you want original Fafnir bearings you can get the correct size replacements from hogwinslow on ebay.
I do find it interesting that the motors do not need new bearings as often and I have not needed to replace that many. The A. O. Smith motors just seem to keep going and going. I even have two very early A. O. Smith motors (shown below) from My Shopsmith Model 10E's S/N 1033 and 1077 that the bearings are still good on. When you had the motor apart did you check to see how smoothly the bearings turned? That would be your best indicator.
A O Smith 1-2 HP Motor early version r.jpg
Not having the motor completely apart, I was only really able to inspect the bearing on the opposite end from the pulley. The bearing was marked 203 SFF and visually looked good. It rotated smoothly with no varying resistance. I also didn't notice any looseness/play.
Assuming these are the original bearings, I'm starting to think it may be a good idea to start looking for some replacements. =)
Re: Craigslist find = New project 10ER
Posted: Thu Jul 02, 2020 4:36 pm
by JPG
joebob80 wrote:chapmanruss wrote:When turned by hand they should turn smooth and freely. These tools are 70 years old give or take 3 years. Replacing the Quill and Drive bearings are commonly needed. In fact there has been only one Model 10 I restored that didn't need them. In that case I believe they were not the original bearings. Unless you want original Fafnir bearings you can get the correct size replacements from hogwinslow on ebay.
I do find it interesting that the motors do not need new bearings as often and I have not needed to replace that many. The A. O. Smith motors just seem to keep going and going. I even have two very early A. O. Smith motors (shown below) from My Shopsmith Model 10E's S/N 1033 and 1077 that the bearings are still good on. When you had the motor apart did you check to see how smoothly the bearings turned? That would be your best indicator.
A O Smith 1-2 HP Motor early version r.jpg
Not having the motor completely apart, I was only really able to inspect the bearing on the opposite end from the pulley. The bearing was marked 203 SFF and visually looked good. It rotated smoothly with no varying resistance. I also didn't notice any looseness/play.
Assuming these are the original bearings, I'm starting to think it may be a good idea to start looking for some replacements. =)
If it ain't broke, don't fix it!
Re: Craigslist find = New project 10ER
Posted: Fri Jul 03, 2020 6:11 pm
by joebob80
Got the belts today!
Installed it and played around with the speed changer. Far as I can tell, it works great even with the badly worn shaft. Everything is moving as it should without the speed changer springs fully compressing. Also tried to check the condition of the drive bearings while it was running, but it was difficult to tell with the motor running in the background.
New issue - With belts, the SS was making a hissing sound that was intermittent at first and eventually became consistent with in a few minutes. I was able to pinpoint it to the motor, near the pulley. In no time, I had the motor apart and this time I separated the shaft from the motor cover to fully inspect the bearing. The side that was not visible before was covered in thick grease that I'm assuming leaked from the bearing?? I was also able to reproduce the hissing sound by turning the bearing (really fast).
I will do some research for new bearings, bearing tools, and diy before I do anything else.
Re: Craigslist find = New project 10ER
Posted: Sat Jul 04, 2020 12:34 am
by joebob80
Could someone confirm this is the correct replacement bearing for my motor?
Marking on old bearing - MRC 203 SFF
Replacement on Amazon - Mrc 203SFF Single Row Ball Bearing
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005YS780I/re ... aFbRR8QTE3