Shopsmith Forums

Hi guys, Ed here. I used to post on some SS forum years back, not sure if it was this or something else.

Years ago I purchased an upgrade kit and then became ill and have been sidelined for quite a while in different ways. Now with some time on my hands I'm finally doing the upgrade, and it's been fun and interesting and frustrating too.

I have a 1980's model that I actively use so I figured I'd upgrade the headstock from an old 1955 unit I got for parts and keep the working headstock for a dedicated drill press. Taking it apart was fun, it had a motor replacement done at some point, had to hammer out the drive shaft assembly because it was so tight. Got that done, drilled the new holes, cleaned and painted it, and then I saw that the motor mount holes didn't line up! Yup, I had screwed it up.

I considered trying to repair it somehow but didn't like that idea so I got out an even older 1954 headstock. Yes, I pick up old units if I can get them cheap, and this time it paid off. So today I tore that one down. The quill spring is broken so I pulled that assembly also and I'll switch in the one from the mis-drilled head. I went ahead and paint prepped this one but I still have to drill the new holes. I should be able to paint later and begin the installing the new power head soon.

Wish me luck, if I screw this up I'm out of spare headstocks.

Do you have the instructional video? I did this mod a couple of months ago to a newer (C) headstock. But I think I recall something about the drilling guides being less ideal on an older headstock.(?) Something like a mechanical feature that prevents installing them the wrong way doesn't do that on an old headstock. If this doesn't sound familiar let me know and I'll look it up. If I'm recalling this correctly it all works, you just have to be more careful on older headstocks.

Good luck and enjoy your new/old PowerPro!

- David

Yeah, that was it. You have to knock out a pin on the guide and after that it can fit the wrong way. I knew that, did the alignment over and over again to get it right, and somehow I still managed to turn the drill guide around the wrong way. The problem with redrilling is that the holes will overlap after being beveled out, and that would make the area very weak when the headstock is in vertical mode. I can still use that headstock though, I have enough parts to assemble a working one that I want to use to drive other tools at variable speed.

Just put the first coat of paint on the second head. The motor mount holes are in the right place (whew!). Both these early headstocks were a bit different. The older one is actual a cleaner casting. The other holes concern me. The alignment of the original holes on the sides seemed a bit off and positioning the big template on the front is tricky because the round face for the quill is wider than on later units. I used my 520 to verify the hole positions, hope this is all okay. I'll find out tomorrow.

Some things to look out for in old heads:

Already mentioned that you may have to knock out the drive shaft assembly. The second unit didn't have the snap ring or even have the bolt in the tightening assembly but the bearing was just in there tight.

Might as well remove the quill feed assembly if you do this. You can clean out the inside much better and there's less to mask when painting.

Even if you don't do that it's a good time to dig out the buried set screw over the quill feed gauge. It's buried deep, get out a pick and start digging. I think it may be plugged with lead, it was made in the 50s when lead was still considered an important vitamin .

Also on this second unit there was no set screw on the speed dial. I could see something down there but no allen wrench would fit right. Getting frustrated I figured I might as well see if I could pry it off, and I did, it was easy because the set screw wasn't there. Be prepared for surprises with these old units.

PO's do not always do any thing correctly!

I couldn't get started right away on this today because the paint was still drying. I cleaned and waxed all the through holes and re-installed the quill feed assembly with the working spring. I also used some epoxy filler on the back of the casting where the snap ring goes, there were gouges in the metal around there, probably from getting the original ring out when someone did whatever they were doing to this head.

If I get a little time later I'll install the switch and power cord and get ready to finish up tomorrow. I really want to get this thing finished now but have to slow myself down so I don't make more mistakes.

Finally back to this. Got sidetracked rescuing a dog and other unexpected events. So I broke the second quill spring. I guess 65 years is about the limit for those things. I'm wondering if releasing the tension allows the spring to slip off the mount, but I'm going to go ahead and get a replacement quill feed assembly off eBay.

I then moved on to insert the drive sleeve assembly and it wouldn't go in. I've been scrubbing the interior of the bearing sleeve area and I can see the assembly should go in. I'll clean a little more to make sure I've got shiny metal all around. I just put the assembly into the freezer, I'll see if it will slip in easily later on. I also put the belt into the opening so I don't end up getting the assembly in and then be unable to get it out.

Hope this works, need to keep things moving.

A small victory here. Even at freezer temperature the drive sleeve assembly would not go in. Looking over the opening in the casting I could just make out it was slightly out of round, maybe. I mentioned filling some gouges on the face of the casting, and that there had been no snap ring holding in the old assembly. Now I suspect as part of some rebuild attempt there was some rough handling to force in or out the assembly and it had distorted the metal around the opening in the casting. I used 160 grit to clean the edge of the opening right there, reducing the least bit of metal just at the edge of the opening, and then in went the assembly. Not quite smooth as silk, but with only a little pressure, and then finally putting my weight behind it to clear the slot for the snap ring.

Just going to mention that I hate those snap rings. It wasn't that hard to get it in, at least it's bigger than the little ones holding the bandsaw wheels, but I really would prefer good old split rings.

Okay, next step, installing the control panel. Already marked an X over that extra hole that will wreck the controller if you put it in.

IMO the retaining ring used is very appropriate for the application. Only a small screwdriver is needed to remove one. A clip like the ones on the band saw would require a large set of ring removal pliers that are not found in the typical amateur workshop.

Ya they different and require getting used to.

The second spring wasn't actually broken. I have the quill advance assembly in place and tensioned. Not sure how it seemed to turn freely before, maybe just turning it the wrong direction or something.

Now I've got the idler shaft in place but there is no hole for a retaining screw and washer on this, and there was no clip in the bolt that tightens the casting on the eccentric. I think I need to tap and drill a hole for the retaining screw and washer like the later models. I've never even seen one of the clips alleged to be in A headstocks and the retaining screw makes more sense.

JPG, the snap rings aren't that bad, that one was just a scapegoat for my general frustrations