Probably $5 and 2$ I have no idea what the filament costs nor how much is required.
I have a large roll of gasket material from making a gasket. I do not remember what it cost way back then.
Now when one considers the 'supply' . . . . .
╔═══╗
╟JPG ╢
╚═══╝
Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
Nvmarv wrote:Has anyone figured out how to replace the gasket on two halves... mines leaking.
Can you be more specific Nvmarv? The two halves of the first picture I posted or something else? I know I'd like to figure out how to get that part off of that tube in the first pic. It looks like it's pressed on.
I would not take apart the assembly from your first picture. It may not go back together. Sorry it's been over three years since I had a Jig Saw disassembled for restoration but that was one item I remember that was NOT taken apart. Tube from the cast part.
As for your idea of making repair parts, it has merit but I agree with JPG that you would be better off selling the individual parts rather than a kit. The Yoke could be a part I may need to replace sometime that I do not have. I have extra gaskets, a table insert and a bunch of lower back up rods P/N 502286. The lower back ups are used on the Model 10 Jig Saw too. The air tubing is simple aquarium air line (sorry I gave away the secret) and I would make a pump seal if needed, although I may just live without it. When it comes to Shopsmith parts I am a bit of a hoarder.
Russ
Mark V completely upgraded to Mark 7
Mark V 520
All SPT's & 2 Power Stations
Model 10ER S/N R64000 first one I restored on bench w/ metal ends & retractable casters.
Has Speed Changer, 4E Jointer, Jig Saw with lamp, a complete set of original accessories & much more.
Model 10E's S/N's 1076 & 1077 oldest ones I have restored. Mark 2 S/N 85959 restored. Others to be restored.
Howdy. I have designed and 3d printed several replacement yokes and they have been working flawlessly in the machines they are in. So I can recommend them as a valid replacement part as long as they are designed well. As far as the leather gasket in the round tube that compresses the air and then blown out towards the work surface I replaced mine with a rubber washer. I have rebuilt several jigsaws this way and they blow really hard now. You'll need to back the rubber washer on both sides with metal ones to keep it from deforming to much. I like to polish the inside to help make a good seal.
I mentioned this in another jigsaw thread, but there is a way to take the rest of the assembly apart. Make sure the bottom area of the tube where it meets the cast aluminium base is very clean and under a bright light look for a small set pin. They are ground and polished flush after they are put in. There is only one. Very carefully punch it out and Mark which direction it came out. Light taps only! You'll want to put it back in the same way.
Now for the dangerous part. Carefully separate the base from the tube making sure to keep both half's of the base part together. There is a tiny little plastic/nylon ball under pressure with a spring. If it gets away from you, you'll never find it. Carefully and slowly separate the two half's over a plastic bin to catch it if it trys to escape. There is another plastic ball and spring that is captive in the bottom half. Make sure to clean these parts well and check them for flatness. The ones I've repaired were not flat and had a lot of deep gouges and scratches from way back when. They were made. I filled them in with CA glue and aluminum dust, JB weld would also work. Make a new gasket, reassemble and enjoy! I can try and take pictures and a more detailed walk through if needed. Also check the front oil cover and on the base unit I haven't seen one flat yet. Might also be why these used to leak oil alot in addition to a plugged vent.
That's great info Shoptimus... I would have never thought to look for a pin that was ground flush... I think I found it now I just need to get a punch that size to tap it out. Does the one pin hold all of it together? And everyone can relax...I'm practicing on an assembly that I bought for $5.00 online. So I'm learning on it before I do my restore. The lower unit I do not have. So I'll have to be more careful when I get started on that.
It's also good to hear that 3d Printed yokes are performing well. Shoptimus did you use PLA or ABS filament for the yokes? There are some printed yokes on eBay are those yours?
I designed and made my own from PLA. I haven't sold them on eBay. I've been meaning to try out a few different designs and shapes. Have you started the teardown of the lower section? I picked up a cheap ultrasonic cleaner and it has been invaluable in cleaning many of these smaller parts. Works great on rust removal and cleaning dryed on and caked on gunk.
I just tore into the lower unit this afternoon. I am amazed at how clean the inside was. All the parts are nice and shiny. LOL... The plastic yoke is in perfect condition but I still plan to design and print one anyway for the future. Should I ever blow this one out. An ultrasonic cleaner is a good idea. I'll have to look into one of those. I drafted the gasket for it today as well. I have ordered new gasket making material and a heavy duty knife for my wife's Cricut. That's what I'm going to use to cut it out. It will make perfect precise cuts.
Spooner wrote:I just tore into the lower unit this afternoon. I am amazed at how clean the inside was. All the parts are nice and shiny. LOL... The plastic yoke is in perfect condition but I still plan to design and print one anyway for the future. Should I ever blow this one out. An ultrasonic cleaner is a good idea. I'll have to look into one of those. I drafted the gasket for it today as well. I have ordered new gasket making material and a heavy duty knife for my wife's Cricut. That's what I'm going to use to cut it out. It will make perfect precise cuts.
If the gaskets work out make some extras. I would like a couple.
John & Mary Burger
Eagle's Lair Woodshop
Hooper, UT
Spooner, my wife has a Cricut as well, but I didn’t think there was a way to download custom patterns to it. I checked into that many years ago, couldn’t find a way to do it, and assumed that they didn’t want competition for their canned pattern cartridges (which undoubtedly have huge profit margins). What’s your process for custom patterns?
. Carefully separate the base from the tube making sure to keep both half's of the base part together. There is a tiny little plastic/nylon ball under pressure with a spring. If it gets away from you, you'll never find it. Carefully and slowly separate the two half's over a plastic bin to catch it if it trys to escape. There is another plastic ball and spring that is captive in the bottom half. Make sure to clean these parts well and check them for flatness. The ones I've repaired were not flat and had a lot of deep gouges and scratches from way back when. They were made. I filled them in with CA glue and aluminum dust, JB weld would also work. Make a new gasket, reassemble and enjoy! I can try and take pictures and a more detailed walk through if needed. Also check the front oil cover and on the base unit I haven't seen one flat yet. Might also be why these used to leak oil alot in addition to a plugged vent.
