Extension Table Switch from Right Hand Side to the Left Hand Side

[Lodgepole]

I have an extension table I would like to switch from the right hand side to the left hand side. Has anyone else done this? If so, or if you have any ideas on how to move the 1 set of the 2 table studs into the empty holes I would appreciate them.

I am guessing I will have to cut new threads into the unused holes.

Any suggestions/ideas would be greatly appreciated.

[garys]

I guess I don't understand what you are trying to do here. On both my 500 and my 510, I can use the extension tables on either end of the machine. No changes are needed.

[edma194]

I'm confused too. You don't have to turn the table around.

[reible]

You should have no issues using the tables on either side just as they are.

But if you are planning on using a rip fence on the table it is unlikely that it will work the same on both sides. Most of us have just purchased a second table to have on on the right and another for the left and do the alignment as such.

You will then need to either remember which is which or label them.

I have managed to get a table to work on both sides and be within the .005" of alignment that I look for with the new dual tilt setup but I still use two table one for the right and one for the left since I have them.

Ed

[JPG]

Since the tables are off set from the mounting tubes, it makes sense to create a mirror image version for use on the left end. Yes the unused holes will need to be tapped. I have not verified, but I think the 6 hole pattern is symmetrical.

[DLB]

Since the tables are off set from the mounting tubes, it makes sense to create a mirror image version for use on the left end. Yes the unused holes will need to be tapped. I have not verified, but I think the 6 hole pattern is symmetrical.

I made my second extension table from a floating table and used this mirror image approach. And yes the pattern is symmetrical. (510/520/M7)

It seems the OP is also asking about removing the OEM studs to switch them to the other holes. I also looked at that but for some reason that I don't recall I felt that the factory studs were not standard. I decided not to try to remove them when it was more difficult than I thought it should be and I didn't want to risk damage. Not saying it can't be done, but it exceeded my comfort level.

- David

[JPG]

Since the tables are off set from the mounting tubes, it makes sense to create a mirror image version for use on the left end. Yes the unused holes will need to be tapped. I have not verified, but I think the 6 hole pattern is symmetrical.

I made my second extension table from a floating table and used this mirror image approach. And yes the pattern is symmetrical. (510/520/M7)

It seems the OP is also asking about removing the OEM studs to switch them to the other holes. I also looked at that but for some reason that I don't recall I felt that the factory studs were not standard. I decided not to try to remove them when it was more difficult than I thought it should be and I didn't want to risk damage. Not saying it can't be done, but it exceeded my comfort level.

- David

There is no reason to remove the (newly redundant)studs. Did you try a jam nut approach to remove them?

[DLB]

There is no reason to remove the (newly redundant)studs. Did you try a jam nut approach to remove them?

Yes, I used a jam nut. And, IIRC, enough torque that it was becoming a concern. But you're right, the only reason I had for trying to remove them was to save myself a trip to the hardware store for studs. There was also some king of visible cue that made me question whether they are threaded, I'll go look in the shop and see if something triggers that.

I also recall (therefore not certain) that the holes in the table are somewhat oversize for threading. The threads will cut, but at something less than nominal grip. The holes are pretty deep so I don't think this is an issue. But I recall I tried some cheap threaded rod, slightly undersized, for homemade studs and the fit was unacceptable.

- David

[DLB]

Nothing I see confirms the stud is or is not threaded on both ends. Most compelling, to me, is the size of the hole in the table. For threaded, you'd expect 5/16" (0.3125) by my book but the hole measures 0.355 near the surface (bottom of the table). It is slightly tapered in, but I can still drop a 11/32" (0.344) drill bit to the bottom. So, if intended to be threaded it is an extremely loose fit.

On the other hand, I'm not aware of a commercial stud type that would fit the criteria.

Curious, I confirmed essentially the same measurements on a gray table, 510 in an earlier life, which I believe to be older and from a different casting. And confirmed that SS does not sell the studs, which is also inconclusive.

I don't have any reservations about threading the hole and using a threaded stud despite the loose fit. But the ME in our midst could convince me otherwise. The hole is 1-1/4 deep, so if you are using the whole depth there is still a lot of grip there.

- David

[Lodgepole]

Thanks for everyone's thoughts and ideas. I should have been more specific in my original message that I already have a right sided table. I found a right sided table on eBay that was the right price. Which I thought I could easily convert to a left sided table.

I ended up taking my new to me right sided table to my brother-in-law how is an auto mechanic. We tried to take the studs out using jam nuts, heat and a hammer. Our best guess is that an adhesive is used rather than the studs being threaded into the holes. We then threaded the other 2 holes. As DLB mentioned the holes are somewhat oversized for threading. I believe he is also correct that holes are deep enough that the threads will grip. I will use 3/8" threaded rod, with Loctite, as the new studs.

Again, thanks everyone for your input.