Bandsaw Table Installation and Alignment

[chapmanruss]

Dusty,

Like you I didn't see aligning the table to the rear of the blade in the current Manual dated 09/03 which can also be found here on the Shopsmith website. So if it is there I missed it too. I do see the placement of shims between the table and trunnions during assembly on page 10 but that simple places the table in the same plane as not having them there since I believe all the shims are the same. My Owners Manual dated 6/95 has the shims during assembly on page 9 but again nothing on that rear blade to table alignment unless I missed it there too.

The Manual I have dated 12/82 has the same information on page 27 as the one from paulrussell. I have two of the original Bandsaw Manuals copyright 1956 from 3:56 and 9:56 that does not mention it either but those Manuals are only 12 pages long so not as detailed as later Manuals. None of these three Manuals show shims between the trunnions and the table in the parts diagram.

Was this a cast iron vs. aluminum table thing? Maybe it is felt that the table is close enough without it as in gary's hand saw comparison. I don't know but now I will have to spend some time checking my 1956, 1996 and 2006 Bandsaws I currently have. I would like to know the alignment on them especially before I sell the 2006 which is an extra one.

Before anyone asks why I would sell the 2006 and keep the 1996, I have the 1996 upgraded with the fence, extension, circle cutter (all of which could be moved) and current cover with the window and tension adjustment slot so the only real difference is the 1996 has the knobs instead if the screws to hold the cover on which after having both I prefer.

[edma194]

My bandsaw was set up when I got it with the blade 90 degrees to the table front to back and side to side. It would definitely bind making bandsaw boxes if it was angled. I'm installing Carter Guides and removing the table (iron) for cleaning anyway and I'm going to make sure it is as true as possible.

[reible]

Boy have we beat the dead horse with this over the years.

Two points to remember, one the band saw is designed with the angle and yes you can if you need to adjust it out. The other part of the page 27 instructions are worth noting:

bs1.jpg (134.65 KiB) Viewed 891 times

This doesn't need to be a one time event, I have shims which I can take in and out by loosening the screws and either adding or removing them. For me they are out most of the time.

Second, static measuring the angle is not 100% accurate. The upper guide bearings should not be engaged until cutting, so the top of the blade will actually move what ever distance that is. It might be very minor but if you are looking to get those cuts to be right on you will have to check.....

Ed

[edma194]

Second, static measuring the angle is not 100% accurate. The upper guide bearings should not be engaged until cutting, so the top of the blade will actually move what ever distance that is. It might be very minor but if you are looking to get those cuts to be right on you will have to check.....

Yes, whatever angle you want has to be measured with a piece of wood pushing the blade back against the bearing.

I understand how that angle can be useful, but I haven't found the machine bogging down as I start to cut. If you are cutting shapes you need to start in slowly anyway. The thinner the stock the less this will matter, an angle in the blade I think would be barely noticeable with 1/2" or smaller stock. Even if you are cutting jigsaw puzzles the pieces will still fit together.

[garys]

This is all good information, and to me, it suggests that depending on the type of cutting you do, it could be advantageous to either have the blade sitting at 90 degrees front to back if you do scroll type cutting, or to have it angled a bit for heavy resawing of thick material.

[jsburger]

This is all good information, and to me, it suggests that depending on the type of cutting you do, it could be advantageous to either have the blade sitting at 90 degrees front to back if you do scroll type cutting, or to have it angled a bit for heavy resawing of thick material.

Also given the differences in the manuals it seems that SS has changed their thinking on this over the years. FWIW, mine has been shimmed to 90º for 20+ years with no problems.

[garys]

I pulled my book out for a look. My bandsaw was made in 1981, and the original 1981 manual is only a couple of pages so it has no information on this subject. I also have a copy of a newer manual dated 2003 in my binder. It also appears to be different from the pages posted here from another 03 manual.

I believe there was also a change in the bandsaw itself. Didn't the earlier versions have the wheels aligned straight with each other? And, aren't the newer ones set up with the top wheel tilted a few degrees? Perhaps changes in the saw itself caused Shopsmith to suggest different setup.

[paulrussell]

I believe there was also a change in the bandsaw itself. Didn't the earlier versions have the wheels aligned straight with each other? And, aren't the newer ones set up with the top wheel tilted a few degrees? Perhaps changes in the saw itself caused Shopsmith to suggest different setup.

Unless I am terribly mistaken, all Shopsmith (Magna) bandsaws have utilized the same canted upper wheel with tracking bearing.
The most significant changes I am aware of are
-- cast iron to aluminum table
-- switch from rollers to bearings
-- adding cover adjustment hole and window
-- adding dust collector port
-- nylon bolt in upper guide block to limit lateral play

As long as the horse is still dead a few more whacks won't hurt it.

Regarding bogging starting thick cuts:
The Shopsmith Mark V has had four different motor configurations --originally 3/4hp, upgraded to 1 1/8hp in 1961, Now the PowerPro motor provides 1.75/2 horsepower. What bogs a 3/4 HP machine is butter to a PowerPro.

Not mentioned in this thread is that once a back-angled blade is fully engaged into the cut, the cutting load is slightly _more_ than a perpendicular blade. Pythagorean worked that all out for us. Admittedly, that penalty is slight given the shallow angle of the blade.

And finally (for me at least):
The bandsaw is an incredibly versatile machine, which is utilized differently in every shop, using different power trains. It is no surprise that what is a critical adjustment for one user could be detrimental for another. There is nothing wrong with an angled blade, nor with a back-canted blade; it all depends upon your particular needs.

[chapmanruss]

I appears Pandora's Box has been opened again. So since it was mentioned above about the bevel to the upper wheel I will add this from a previous post.

Upper Wheel angle - From Everett January 15 2016 in a forum post.

I just got off the phone with Shopsmith Customer Service and was told that the 2° Bevel was added in April 1984 to the upper wheel. Prior to that, they said they were flat like the lower wheel. That may answer some of the questions since many of us have Bandsaws from early and later production.

There was a great amount of discussion about that angle in a recent thread.

As for the Manuals and what they include, there certainly has been significant changes to them over the years which does not always correspond to changes to the tools. Much of this is due to legal needs to protect the manufacturer. Almost 3 pages of the current Bandsaw Manual cover safety whereas the original 1956 12 page Bandsaw Manual has no Safety section. More in-depth descriptions of functions and operations are now included. I see the Manuals as a good reference when I have questions about the tools, both old and new Manuals for both old and new tools.

Dusty,

Sorry this has gone a bit off topic but as you know it happens.

What I am understanding here is it appears for some uses it is okay or maybe even better to have that slight angle, front to back, for the blade while in other cases 90° to the table would be preferred. Maybe I should keep the extra Bandsaw and have one set with the angle and the other at 90° to the table.

[dusty]

Yesterday I reassembled the band saw that I had been working with. New bearings and table realigned to 90 degrees to the table. Time will tell. The other band saw is slightly off 90 degrees.