Beginning fixing up a 10E — Need help please

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jsburger
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Re: Beginning fixing up a 10E — Need help please

Post by jsburger »

Nice progress. As for the bearings, Russ is correct. They are sealed so no lube. The original bearings are Fafnir. The drive sleeve bearings are Fafnir 205KLL2 and the quill bearings are Fafnir 202KLL3. Fafnir is now part of Timken. These are the best bearings in the world. Since you can't check them under power, I would just replace all four. You don't want to get the machine all together just to find out you have to take it apart to replace bearings.

Yes the original Fafnir/Timken bearings are a bit expensive. You can buy cheap Chinese junk for less but if you buy the original Fafnir bearings you will only do it once. Remember the ones in your machine are 70+ years old.

I always change the bearings in the machines I restore and I only use Fafnir bearings.
John & Mary Burger
Eagle's Lair Woodshop
Hooper, UT
jumpmaster
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Re: Beginning fixing up a 10E — Need help please

Post by jumpmaster »

Best retailer you can recommend to buy the Fafnir/Timkin bearings please? I’ll get them ordered ASAP...
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jsburger
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Re: Beginning fixing up a 10E — Need help please

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jumpmaster wrote: Tue Apr 06, 2021 7:43 pm Best retailer you can recommend to buy the Fafnir/Timkin bearings please? I’ll get them ordered ASAP...
Motion Industries here in Utah. Shop around. Find a local bearing supplier and ask. The big thing is you don't want an inferior equivalent. If it doesn't say Fafnir or Timken on the box don't accept it. Insist on the original. They are available but may not be off the shelf.

:eek: I just looked on Motion Industries web site. 205KLL2 Fafnir/Timken bearings are $60 each. The last time I bought them was from A&W Bearings in Texas and they were around $30. Regardless, I would still buy them. To me good quality bearings are worth every penny.

Just google the part number and see what comes up.
John & Mary Burger
Eagle's Lair Woodshop
Hooper, UT
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chapmanruss
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Re: Beginning fixing up a 10E — Need help please

Post by chapmanruss »

I agree with John and good progress. Getting replacement/new table posts may be the way to go. They are 1" diameter and as I already posted 13" long. If you get new posts do add a small chamfer to the ends or at least the end going into the carriage. It will make installing the table much easier which is something you will do as you change setups. Gouges on the post could be from the set screw being used for the Table Raising Arm instead of the knob with a threaded brass stud as mentioned before. I did look and didn't find one for sale right now. As an alternative you could use a table height lock knob (Carriage Knob) from a carriage since they have a brass threaded stud too. The knob would just be a bit larger in diameter. Do keep the 2 you have on the carriage to lock the table height or you would just be moving the post damage problem.
Russ

Mark V completely upgraded to Mark 7
Mark V 520
All SPT's & 2 Power Stations
Model 10ER S/N R64000 first one I restored on bench w/ metal ends & retractable casters.
Has Speed Changer, 4E Jointer, Jig Saw with lamp, a complete set of original accessories & much more.
Model 10E S/N 1077 oldest one I have restored. 10E S/N 1033 & Mark 2 to be restored.
jumpmaster
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Re: Beginning fixing up a 10E — Need help please

Post by jumpmaster »

I bought a 3” PVC pipe and capped it today...have one way tube soaking in evaporust in it now...will flip that tube over tomorrow...then the same with the other one. Then will dunk the cast iron parts and prepare for paint.

I received the following parts and have put them aside...
Quill handle and knob
Headstock pulley cover (3D printed, but should serve to shield the pulley fine)
Several knobs (102-5, 102-6, and 2 of 102-7x)
Sanding disc
Jacobs chuck

Still trying to find the small parts I need... I should probably begin taking apart the headstock to clean it...

Any advice on disassembling and cleaning the headstock please?

Also, Russ...are these the right primer, paint, and top coat?

Primer:
https://www.lowes.com/pd/Rust-Oleum-Fla ... oz/3729777

Paint:
https://www.lowes.com/pd/Rust-Oleum-Sto ... z/50425938

Finish coat:
https://www.lowes.com/pd/Rust-Oleum-Sto ... z/50449042
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chapmanruss
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Re: Beginning fixing up a 10E — Need help please

Post by chapmanruss »

I have varied which primer I have used but the Charcoal Gray and Matte Clear Coat are the ones I use. As for taking apart the Headstock avoid using force to separate parts to avoid damaging them. The Drive Sleeve can be tough to remove sometimes but do not try to hammer it out. If force must be used a large diameter wooden dowel tapped against it from the quill opening can help. Using a wood dowel can help prevent damaging the end face of the sleeve itself which can make the splined end for the quill assembly not fit back into the drive sleeve (mushrooming). If the collars on the Quill Feed Pinion shaft do not want to come off a little cleaning of the shaft ends can help. From looking at the pictures of your headstock most of it should come apart fairly easy. Just take it apart a piece at a time. If it helps you, put parts for each assembly together in sorted bins or boxes. It can be a little overwhelming looking at all the parts individually and wondering where they go.
Russ

Mark V completely upgraded to Mark 7
Mark V 520
All SPT's & 2 Power Stations
Model 10ER S/N R64000 first one I restored on bench w/ metal ends & retractable casters.
Has Speed Changer, 4E Jointer, Jig Saw with lamp, a complete set of original accessories & much more.
Model 10E S/N 1077 oldest one I have restored. 10E S/N 1033 & Mark 2 to be restored.
jumpmaster
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Re: Beginning fixing up a 10E — Need help please

Post by jumpmaster »

Understood...I’ll go slow and make sure I keep everything straight...I think I may need a pair of snap ring pliers too...

I’m debating whether to primer over the paint or take it down to bare metal...also, apparently no one within 50 miles of here has any cans of rustoleum charcoal gray. Lowe’s had like 40 cans last night and when I looked again today, they had zero cans and was “unavailable” indefinitely. Checked Ace hardware and Home Depot...neither had it either...neither did tractor supply...crazy...
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chapmanruss
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Re: Beginning fixing up a 10E — Need help please

Post by chapmanruss »

Yes you will need Snap Ring Pliers to remove the depth indicator snap ring.

Strange about the Charcoal Gray paint. I checked the Home Depot website and it says there are 7 cans in stock at the Brenham store. I don't know about Lowes. Unfortunately ordering it from Home Depot is a box of 6 cans but you shouldn't need that many even with the Shopsmith metal bench ends.
Russ

Mark V completely upgraded to Mark 7
Mark V 520
All SPT's & 2 Power Stations
Model 10ER S/N R64000 first one I restored on bench w/ metal ends & retractable casters.
Has Speed Changer, 4E Jointer, Jig Saw with lamp, a complete set of original accessories & much more.
Model 10E S/N 1077 oldest one I have restored. 10E S/N 1033 & Mark 2 to be restored.
jumpmaster
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Posts: 57
Joined: Mon Mar 22, 2021 4:32 am

Re: Beginning fixing up a 10E — Need help please

Post by jumpmaster »

chapmanruss wrote: Fri Apr 09, 2021 1:19 pmStrange about the Charcoal Gray paint. I checked the Home Depot website and it says there are 7 cans in stock at the Brenham store.
Well, when I checked this morning there were zero cans at HD in brenham...maybe they found a few cans. But I’m not trying to make a 1.5 hour round trip for a $5 can of paint that ***should*** be in stock here. lol Apparently, some jerk is driving all over central Texas, buying up every can available. Lowe’s said they sold 17 cans this week. The single can available on ebay for a reasonable price isn’t there anymore. I don’t get it. Some kind of sudden run on gray paint. Weird...

I’m working on trying to polish/wax the way tubes today...they’re not getting terribly shiny, I’m afraid. :(
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chapmanruss
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Re: Beginning fixing up a 10E — Need help please

Post by chapmanruss »

See mickyd's post in the following link. it's the fourth one down.

viewtopic.php?p=32230

Although it was for Mark 5 bench and way tubes the idea is the same. For polishing tubes I use my Mark 7 with a similar expansion plug and a set of rollers on an extension table instead of the drill setup. Below is a before and after picture of a pair of way tubes for one of my restorations

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R63716.jpg
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Not the worst pair I have had and not the best either.
Russ

Mark V completely upgraded to Mark 7
Mark V 520
All SPT's & 2 Power Stations
Model 10ER S/N R64000 first one I restored on bench w/ metal ends & retractable casters.
Has Speed Changer, 4E Jointer, Jig Saw with lamp, a complete set of original accessories & much more.
Model 10E S/N 1077 oldest one I have restored. 10E S/N 1033 & Mark 2 to be restored.
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