Beginning fixing up a 10E — Need help please

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jumpmaster
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Re: Beginning fixing up a 10E — Need help please

Post by jumpmaster »

I think I have located all the parts here now...going to get the motor rewired this week...check the bearings, etc...

Figured out what one extra part was for...fence for the table...will not be using the table saw, but will be useful for horizontal boring...

Other piece goes on the end once I get it cleaned up...
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jumpmaster
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Re: Beginning fixing up a 10E — Need help please

Post by jumpmaster »

Also, I tried to move the quill lock handle over to the other side where y’all told me it should be, but I’m afraid I might be missing some parts...please see pics...all I have when I removed it was the handle and a hex nut. :(
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JPG
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Re: Beginning fixing up a 10E — Need help please

Post by JPG »

"IF" all you have is the handle and the nut, WHAT is centering the threads in the middle of that large bore?

I think you will find a wedge inside.

Hopefully it is installed correctly?
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Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10
E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
jumpmaster
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Re: Beginning fixing up a 10E — Need help please

Post by jumpmaster »

JPG wrote: Sun Apr 04, 2021 7:58 pm "IF" all you have is the handle and the nut, WHAT is centering the threads in the middle of that large bore?

I think you will find a wedge inside.

Hopefully it is installed correctly?

........or the wedge may be long gone...like I said, it’s had at least two previous owners. And the carriage is mounted backwards...no telling what all is missing or messed up. :(

I don’t think I’ll be able to turn it over by myself with my back the way it is. :(
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JPG
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Re: Beginning fixing up a 10E — Need help please

Post by JPG »

I think if the wedge was 'long gone', the nut/handle would be real floppy in the rather large bore and not tighten down until the threads run out.
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╟JPG ╢
╚═══╝

Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10
E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
jumpmaster
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Re: Beginning fixing up a 10E — Need help please

Post by jumpmaster »

JPG wrote: Sun Apr 04, 2021 8:07 pm I think if the wedge was 'long gone', the nut/handle would be real floppy in the rather large bore and not tighten down until the threads run out.
I’ll try to look in there...brb...
jumpmaster
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Re: Beginning fixing up a 10E — Need help please

Post by jumpmaster »

Not sure what it’s supposed to look like in there, but I managed to get some pics...almost dropped it...need to find help to move it around...or a hoist or something...

I don’t think I understand the facetious tone here...what have I apparently done wrong??
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jumpmaster
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Re: Beginning fixing up a 10E — Need help please

Post by jumpmaster »

Ok, well 35 views of the pics and no replies.

I’m thinking the wedge(s) are gone. Otherwise, why would one of the previous owners have just stuck a hex nut on the outside?? Also, there is an obvious milled-out area for a key on the operator side of the quill lock, but nothing is present there. That’s why I theorized earlier that they were “LONG GONE” — and I’m still not sure why I was mocked for that comment, but anyway...by the serial number, it sounds like mine should have the double wedge setup. And it has the slot milled into the headstock casting for a key, so it’s probably the keyed one with the spring. Sounds like that one is not very common. Some kind folks have suggested using the brass version and putting a pin/pins where the key slot is. I’d really rather just use the one meant for my machine though instead of just trying to kludge something together that might sort of work ok...
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JPG
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Re: Beginning fixing up a 10E — Need help please

Post by JPG »

Facetiousness not intended. Sorry if it seemed so.

I merely do not think the threaded handle with a nut would be anything but flopping in that bore.

In yer pix, that rib obscures the possible exposure of the wedge.

When you remove the nut and extract the handle, what does it look like looking into the bore?
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╟JPG ╢
╚═══╝

Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10
E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
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chapmanruss
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Re: Beginning fixing up a 10E — Need help please

Post by chapmanruss »

This may help. In the picture below is the Quill Lock Assemblies. Yours with the keyed version will look like the 3rd from the left. It includes the Handle, Nut, Washer, front Wedge, back Wedge (which the nut fits into) and the spring.

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Quill Locks all versions.jpg
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From what I see and JPG is referring to it looks like at least one, if not both, of the wedges are still in the Headstock. I can see a wedge behind the nut on the back side of the Headstock. Hopefully as you continue to disassemble it you will get the wedges out of the headstock. The wedges are made of an alloy metal and some corrosion may be keeping them there. If you need replacement parts for the Quill Lock refer to the picture for help in identifying the correct one. Some sellers have no idea of the difference between these versions let alone the difference between the Quill Lock and the Headstock and Carriage Way Tube Locks. Only the Quill Lock has the keyed wedges like yours and the handle is bent differently on the Quill Lock.

Using one of the other Quill Lock versions would work fine except the single wedge version. The Brass version (left in the picture above) is less common than yours. The key only aligns the wedges and keeps it there if loosened to much. The 2nd version would work fine in your headstock it just needs to be aligned as it is assembled just like in the earlier Headstock versions or the same as the Way Tube Locks in all versions.
Russ

Mark V completely upgraded to Mark 7
Mark V 520
All SPT's & 2 Power Stations
Model 10ER S/N R64000 first one I restored on bench w/ metal ends & retractable casters.
Has Speed Changer, 4E Jointer, Jig Saw with lamp, a complete set of original accessories & much more.
Model 10E's S/N's 1076 & 1077 oldest ones I have restored. Mark 2 S/N 85959 restored. Others to be restored.
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