Beginning fixing up a 10E — Need help please

[chapmanruss]

In John's pictures above the upper belt cover that originally came with yours would be the one on the left. As for the wiring I would replace it. That is something I do for all my Model 10 restorations and I do use 3 wire to ground it plus a new switch. At 70 years plus or minus the wire and switch are iffy at best so spend the $20 to replace them. A lot of them have had cracking insulation. It may require splicing the new wire to the existing wire inside the motor or the motor may have terminals. For the ground I usually attach a ring terminal and put it under the cover plate and screw.

When looking for a replacement pulley remember the Headstock Pulley is a 13/16" bore and smooth. The motor Pulley usually had a keyway. Something to watch for when looking online for used parts. Not all sellers are accurate with their descriptions. Both are 2", 3" and 4" step pulleys. There was a special 2" and 3" step pulley made for the Headstock but it is not what you want for your use. There was an additional special Headstock Pulley with an SPT Hub but both special pulleys a rare and not often found for sale.

[jumpmaster]

Is that what I’ve seen where folks can run a lathe on one side of the headstock and the disc sander on the other side, at the same time?

[chapmanruss]

No, SPT stands for Special or Single Purpose Tool and originally were called Add-a-Tool. It's the Jointer, Jig Saw, Belt Sander, Bandsaw, etc. When the Mark 5 came out Magna made the special pulley with the hub and adapter brackets to run the SPT's on the Model 10E and 10ER. The Mark 5 or V can run a sanding disk on the belt side of the Headstock while lathe turning and can be used for touch up sharping of the chisels. It would require a sanding disk with a 13/16" bore to be able to mount that way on a Model 10E or 10ER.

[jumpmaster]

Can I use a disc sander on the other side of my headstock? I’m not sure if the 10e/10er can do that, but I thought I’ve seen one do that in a couple of videos I watched...

[rpd]

There is no good way to run a disk sander on the left side of the headstock. The 10E/ER doesn't have a spindle on the end of the drive sleeve, like the Mark V does, and the splined end of the spindle goes all the way through the drive sleeve, so it has fairly thin walls and isn't up to a lot of side stress.

[jumpmaster]

Thank you for your reply, Ron, and everyone else too... I appreciate your help...

I began working on cleaning up the machine...I was able to get one side of one way tube pretty decent, but the other end is not cleaning up as well for some reason.

Also wondering what the closest shade of gray enamel would be...hoping I can buy it at Lowes’s... I saw quite a few colors of “professional enamel” spray cans there recently. Also, should I use the spray “cold galvanize” product on the cast iron parts? (After masking where appropriate, of course)

Thanks to everyone for their advice...I am blessed to have located a few parts and they are enroute now. I will also be replacing the wiring on the motor. Here are a couple more pics...

C3C5850F-A2ED-4C0B-8064-ECE20D4B2784.jpeg (140.64 KiB) Viewed 931 times

[chapmanruss]

The paint on the one I restored shown in the previous post is Rust-oleum Charcoal Gray paint and I add a Matte Clear Coat to remove the gloss finish. It is one of the closest colors I have found to the original color. I use Rust-oleum primer prior to painting it gray. Do mask anywhere paint should not go. It is easier to keep paint off surfaces than to remove it afterwards.

One thing I noticed in your last post was the Headstock and the Quill Lock installed backwards. The handle should be on the front side.

I had mentioned but did not directly ask, do you have an Owner's Manual? One thing the original Owner's Manuals recommended under maintenance was applying a light coat of oil to protect and lubricate the way tubes and other parts. Do NOT do that. Instead follow the recommendations in the supplement PDF attached below.
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Waxing Supplement Model 10s.pdf

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In reality all the bare metal parts can benefit from waxing to protect them from rust. Even the Aluminum Tables can benefit if you wish to use wax on the table surface.

[jumpmaster]

Yes, I have the manual and the power tools woodworking for everyone..,I’ve been poring over them.

Are you saying the headstock is installed backwards on the way tubes? If so, I suspected that when I was working on it today. Glad to have confirmation it wasn’t just my imagination.

More pics of progress...

[JPG]

Cannot tell fer sure, but the headstock appears correctly mounted. The carriage appears backwards. The quill lock is on the back side rather than the 'operator' side. Reversing the carriage will place the carriage lock on the 'operator' side. The trunion is correct to the headstock, but reversed with the carriage.

[jumpmaster]

I’d love to correct it, but everything is fixed firmly in place at the moment. I need to try soaking with PB Blaster and see if I can free it up. None of the set screws have been seized so far, thankfully.

I have brass drifts, wood blocks, and dead blow mallet if needed to carefully apply mild percussive persuasion.

I found the spur center firmly entrenched in the tailstock today. It has had PB Blaster applied...waiting for it to work...