Bandsaw rebuild

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eagspoo
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Bandsaw rebuild

Post by eagspoo »

About 20 parts soaking in evapo rust right now, should look great by this afternoon.

A couple questions:

1. since I have it 100% apart right now, should I replace the wheel bearings? Honestly both seem ok although the lower bearing, which I think is sealed, is a little clicky. Both spin great though. If replace, suggestions for which ones to buy and from who?

2. Behind the tensioner arm I have a plastic bearing the blade runs on, and it looks a little beat up. I've seen that other years these were metal bearings. Seems like something I should replace, any suggestions for which one to buy?

3. The upper and lower bearings behind the blade above and below the table also looking a little rough but are working and not squealing. Thoughts?

Thanks!
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JPG
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Re: Bandsaw rebuild

Post by JPG »

Replace them with the current version.

Orrr do the dual bearing thing. Someone will provide a link.
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╟JPG ╢
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Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10
E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
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chapmanruss
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Re: Bandsaw rebuild

Post by chapmanruss »

1. If the lower wheel is turning smoothly don't worry about it. That is a sealed bearing and can be difficult to find and replace just it. Otherwise you have to buy a complete Lower Wheel Assembly. As for the upper wheel remember to grease the needle bearings inside the wheel while you have it off the Upper Wheel Arm and Axle.

2 & 3. I would definitely replace the Auto-Tracking Bearing. It is very worn down and likely has the blade tracking farther back on the wheels than desired. While at it go ahead and replace the Upper and Lower Rollers. The Back-up Roller Retro-fit Kit will give you the parts needed to do all three bearings.

If the tires are in good shape great but if not consider replacing those too. You can use either the original rubber type tires or urethane tires. The choice is up to you.
Last edited by chapmanruss on Tue May 25, 2021 7:18 pm, edited 1 time in total.
Russ

Mark V completely upgraded to Mark 7
Mark V 520
All SPT's & 2 Power Stations
Model 10ER S/N R64000 first one I restored on bench w/ metal ends & retractable casters.
Has Speed Changer, 4E Jointer, Jig Saw with lamp, a complete set of original accessories & much more.
Model 10E's S/N's 1076 & 1077 oldest ones I have restored. Mark 2 S/N 85959 restored. Others to be restored.
eagspoo
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Re: Bandsaw rebuild

Post by eagspoo »

Ok, I think I'll follow all that advice (stick with existing wheel bearings, grease them up, get the retro-fit kit).

About greasing the upper wheel arm, I was able to get off the circlip and washer, but then wasn't able to easily pull the arm off. Is there a trick? Pull harder?

Thanks again.
edma194
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Re: Bandsaw rebuild

Post by edma194 »

If you really want a lower wheel bearing you can find them online. I got one from eBay but they seem to be out now. I think this is the right one according to the dimensions. I have seen them other places as well.
Ed from Rhode Island

510 PowerPro Double Tilt:Greenie PowerPro Drill Press:500 Sanding Shorty w/Belt&Strip Sanders
Super Sawsmith 2000:Scroll Saw w/Stand:Joint-Matic:Power Station:Power Stand:Bandsaw:Joiner:Jigsaw
1961 Goldie:1960 Sawsmith RAS:10ER
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reible
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Re: Bandsaw rebuild

Post by reible »

Here is info that might be useful:

viewtopic.php?f=10&t=8361

Ed
{Knight of the Shopsmith} [Hero's don't wear capes, they wear dog tags]
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chapmanruss
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Re: Bandsaw rebuild

Post by chapmanruss »

If you are trying to take the arm off the post attached to the Main Frame Assembly first remove the Tension Spring bar and the Tension Indicator Scale. The scale can slip and catch the retaining ring groove. Try rotating the arm up and down while pulling it off. Normally the arm should move freely up and down on the post limited only by the Tension Spring bar. It should not take force to get it off. If difficult lay the Bandsaw down and try getting some penetrating oil in between the post and arm's hole.
Russ

Mark V completely upgraded to Mark 7
Mark V 520
All SPT's & 2 Power Stations
Model 10ER S/N R64000 first one I restored on bench w/ metal ends & retractable casters.
Has Speed Changer, 4E Jointer, Jig Saw with lamp, a complete set of original accessories & much more.
Model 10E's S/N's 1076 & 1077 oldest ones I have restored. Mark 2 S/N 85959 restored. Others to be restored.
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JPG
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Joined: Wed Dec 10, 2008 7:42 pm
Location: Lexington, Ky (TAMECAT territory)

Re: Bandsaw rebuild

Post by JPG »

Why are you attempting to remove the arm?
╔═══╗
╟JPG ╢
╚═══╝

Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10
E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
eagspoo
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Posts: 69
Joined: Sun Apr 11, 2021 11:29 am

Re: Bandsaw rebuild

Post by eagspoo »

I just figured I'd take everything apart and clean it. In the end I left it alone. Things mostly look great (updated to cool blocks, new bearing kit, greased, new guard, new belts, de-rusted, scrubbed and waxed everything) however it is vibrating more than seems right to me. I'm pretty sure the upper tire has some glue under one spot that didn't smooth out. I saw the little wobble before putting things back together but ignored it hoping it would be fine.
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