I purchased this used from eBay.
Is this going to cause me a problem?
Is it repairable?
520 Floating Table Front Rail Damage
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- rlkeeney
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520 Floating Table Front Rail Damage
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- 2021-07-03 17.57.06.jpg (106.03 KiB) Viewed 913 times
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Robert Keeney
Tallahassee Florida
#odinstoyfactory
Robert Keeney
Tallahassee Florida
#odinstoyfactory
- dusty
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Re: 520 Floating Table Front Rail Damage
Hard to say with certainty but I believe it will work and will have no noticeable effect. It looks to be as though it was dropped . I am assuming that the rail itself is NOT BENT. If the rail is bent that could have some impact on alignment of the rip fence.
"Making Sawdust Safely"
Dusty
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Dusty
Sent from my Dell XPS using Firefox.
Re: 520 Floating Table Front Rail Damage
It's the "old" style 520 front rail (one without the ledge for the magnetic ruler, which came later).
I don't think that slight bend is likely to cause a problem, but it is easy to find out.
1. Mount the 520 rail to the extension table and join the extension table to the main table with the table tubes.
2. Take a rip fence that you know is square when when locked on the main table and lock it on the main table close to the extension table.
3. Put a known straight edge against the locked rip fence (on the side away from the floating table) and clamp the straight edge to the main table as a reference.
4. Now move the rip fence to the floating table and try locking it. Now make sure the locked fence is square to the reference straight edge you clamped to the main table by carefully measuring the distance from the reference straight edge to the rip fence at the infeed and outfeed ends and while moving the rip fence along the floating table (not much movement possible along the floating table.
5. Then see if you can lock the rip fence bridging the main table and the floating table and see if it is still square to the reference straight edge.
If everything stays square you are good to go.
I don't think that slight bend is likely to cause a problem, but it is easy to find out.
1. Mount the 520 rail to the extension table and join the extension table to the main table with the table tubes.
2. Take a rip fence that you know is square when when locked on the main table and lock it on the main table close to the extension table.
3. Put a known straight edge against the locked rip fence (on the side away from the floating table) and clamp the straight edge to the main table as a reference.
4. Now move the rip fence to the floating table and try locking it. Now make sure the locked fence is square to the reference straight edge you clamped to the main table by carefully measuring the distance from the reference straight edge to the rip fence at the infeed and outfeed ends and while moving the rip fence along the floating table (not much movement possible along the floating table.
5. Then see if you can lock the rip fence bridging the main table and the floating table and see if it is still square to the reference straight edge.
If everything stays square you are good to go.
Gale's Law: The bigger the woodworking project, the less the mistakes show in any photo taken far enough away to show the entire project!
- rlkeeney
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Re: 520 Floating Table Front Rail Damage
Thanks, Sounds easy enough. I'll do that as soon as I get a chance. I'm waiting on some parts. I purchased this on eBay and it wasn't well packed. Some small bits and pieces were missing.algale wrote: ↑Sun Jul 04, 2021 11:32 am It's the "old" style 520 front rail (one without the ledge for the magnetic ruler, which came later).
I don't think that slight bend is likely to cause a problem, but it is easy to find out.
1. Mount the 520 rail to the extension table and join the extension table to the main table with the table tubes.
2. Take a rip fence that you know is square when when locked on the main table and lock it on the main table close to the extension table.
3. Put a known straight edge against the locked rip fence (on the side away from the floating table) and clamp the straight edge to the main table as a reference.
4. Now move the rip fence to the floating table and try locking it. Now make sure the locked fence is square to the reference straight edge you clamped to the main table by carefully measuring the distance from the reference straight edge to the rip fence at the infeed and outfeed ends and while moving the rip fence along the floating table (not much movement possible along the floating table.
5. Then see if you can lock the rip fence bridging the main table and the floating table and see if it is still square to the reference straight edge.
If everything stays square you are good to go.
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Robert Keeney
Tallahassee Florida
#odinstoyfactory
Robert Keeney
Tallahassee Florida
#odinstoyfactory
Re: 520 Floating Table Front Rail Damage
Don't tell the others but I had a similar issue. Table slipped out of my fingers while I was moving it. Only fell a couple of inches but still did damage. But mine was on the back rail so not as critical. If the damage is only to the very corner you can cut the tail end off. Yes just a little shorter but damage is gone. If it is more then a 1/2" that needs to be removed then it will be harder to deal with but in theory you could go up to the threaded insert......
Ed
Ed
{Knight of the Shopsmith} [Hero's don't wear capes, they wear dog tags]
- rlkeeney
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Re: 520 Floating Table Front Rail Damage
I spent the afternoon testing and decided to buy a new one. When the fence is mounted on the bent rail it is off by 1/8-inch. More if the fence is over the bent part of the rail.
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Robert Keeney
Tallahassee Florida
#odinstoyfactory
Robert Keeney
Tallahassee Florida
#odinstoyfactory
- chapmanruss
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Re: 520 Floating Table Front Rail Damage
Robert,
This is the comments I made in your other thread Two Front Rails Listed - Which one do I buy.
From your pictures it looks like more than just the very corner edge is bent and if it were mine, I would replace it. You may want to contact who you bought it from since it may have been insured for shipping if the damage occurred then.
This is the comments I made in your other thread Two Front Rails Listed - Which one do I buy.
To replace yours you would use the older style P/N 522367.The difference between the two listings may be the older front rail (522367) and the newer style front rail (522297) with the magnetic strip. In both the Mark V 520 Manual, dated 03/99 and the Mark 7 Manual, dated 09/10 that I have the Front Rail is listed as 518489 and when searched goes to 522367. If you look at the Rip Scale Upgrade Kit, 522297 Front Rail for Extension Table is listed in the individual parts.
From your pictures it looks like more than just the very corner edge is bent and if it were mine, I would replace it. You may want to contact who you bought it from since it may have been insured for shipping if the damage occurred then.
Russ
Mark V completely upgraded to Mark 7
Mark V 520
All SPT's & 2 Power Stations
Model 10ER S/N R64000 first one I restored on bench w/ metal ends & retractable casters.
Has Speed Changer, 4E Jointer, Jig Saw with lamp, a complete set of original accessories & much more.
Model 10E's S/N's 1076 & 1077 oldest ones I have restored. Mark 2 S/N 85959 restored. Others to be restored.
Mark V completely upgraded to Mark 7
Mark V 520
All SPT's & 2 Power Stations
Model 10ER S/N R64000 first one I restored on bench w/ metal ends & retractable casters.
Has Speed Changer, 4E Jointer, Jig Saw with lamp, a complete set of original accessories & much more.
Model 10E's S/N's 1076 & 1077 oldest ones I have restored. Mark 2 S/N 85959 restored. Others to be restored.