Shopsmith Forums

theinrichs wrote: ↑Fri Oct 15, 2021 9:11 pm Ooops! I thought that might happen. I went back and reviewed Marc’s thread on posting pictures. Hope it works this time. JPG and Russ thank you for your comments.

I’m glad you were able to get those photos posted. I’m hoping someone can explain the odd pattern on the beds. The more I look at them the more it looks like someone laid some chainmail on the to rust.

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I remembered the question you asked me while we were talking about something else, it was about the paint. Below is what I used.

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Unfortunately Verge Green is IIRC no longer made by rustoleum.

That jointer bed 'finish' also has me curious.

Yeah, the joiner bed finish caught my eye as well. Just a guess, but maybe someone had some kind of cover over it. My guess is rain/humidity got underneath the cover and rain or some other weight was on top of the cover. Either it transferred a pattern from the cover material or the different high & low spots between the cover and jointer bed trapped this moisture causing more rust in some spots than others creating the pattern. Not cool that it rusted, but cool that it created an unusual pattern like this.

I agree about the unusual pattern on the jointer infeed and outfeed tables. I followed the cleaning steps of using Scotch Brite pads and WD 40 to clean up the tables with some success but the pattern is still there. The tables are now smooth with no visible rust except for the odd "pattern". I'm inclined to leave it alone and move on to the next steps of Penetrol as suggested and JPW. Any thoughts as to how to proceed? The other parts of the jointer have cleaned up really well. I'll post more pics later. Thanks.

Tony

I wonder what evaporust would achieve.

theinrichs wrote: ↑Sat Oct 16, 2021 11:59 pm I agree about the unusual pattern on the jointer infeed and outfeed tables. I followed the cleaning steps of using Scotch Brite pads and WD 40 to clean up the tables with some success but the pattern is still there. The tables are now smooth with no visible rust except for the odd "pattern". I'm inclined to leave it alone and move on to the next steps of Penetrol as suggested and JPW. Any thoughts as to how to proceed? The other parts of the jointer have cleaned up really well. I'll post more pics later. Thanks.

Tony

It looks to me as if someone (who was really good at it) hand-scraped the top of your jointer tables. The factory Blanchard-grinding marks are still visible beneath the hand scraping, as they should be.

Before it was possible to grind machine ways to the required accuracy, flatness was achieved by hand-scraping them with a scraper that looked a lot like a woodworking chisel. The goal wasn’t to remove 100% of the surface layer, but just to knock down the peaks and get sufficient flat surface for load bearing. The remaining “valleys” were considered desirable for retaining lubricating oil, and for that reason many still consider hand-scraped ways to be superior to ground ways. Hand-scraping, done by an expert, also produced an attractive textured finish. I’d guess that your jointer tables were scraped just for the decorative effect.

If you Google “hand scraping metal”, there are plenty of articles and videos on the subject.

Thanks Dennis. I had heard the term Blanchard marks before but really had no idea what these were, what they looked like or the why behind them. Thanks for the excellent explanation. When I searched for this, the one pic definitely looked very similar to what was posted here. The pic was said to have been "frosted". Interesting.

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hand_scraper

Excerpt:
One advantage of scraping is the ability to take the tool to the workpiece, this can be useful when the workpiece weighs several tons and is difficult to move.

It is done by using a precision surface such as a surface plate or a straight edge as a standard (a straight edge in this context is not a ruler; it is a miniature surface plate of extreme accuracy). The standard is coated with a very thin coating of a material such as Prussian blue. The work piece and standard are touched together by gravity alone and the high spots on the work piece will be colored by the dye on the standard. These high spots are scraped off and the process repeated until there is an even spread of high spots which total about 60%[citation needed] or more of the surface area. Coarse scraping gives a resulting surface with 5-10 points per square inch while fine scraping yields 24-36 points per square inch. If desired the surface can then be “Frosted”. A surface prepared in this way is superior in overall accuracy to any prepared by machining or grinding operations, although lapping can equal or exceed it over small distances.[citation needed] Grinding and machining stresses the metal thermally and mechanically, scraping and lapping do not.

I agree re frosted apperence, but his jointer is 'finer frosting'. Someone had a LOT of patience.(and skill)

Lotsa valleys for JPW retention.

That is really amazing. I am constantly learning something new here. Frosting might make this jointer slicker, and less likely to be sticky as you push boards through it. I would guess that if not cared for the increased number of valleys would also increase the number of spots for rust to develop.

If this is truly frosted, I assume the PO would have taken good care of their equipment.

In retrospect, I now think cleaning with mineral spirits followed by penetrol wiped off and then JPW after it dries.

Those mini grooves are likely only a few "tenths" (0.000x")deep.

All that above may be ludicrous since little penetrol will be left behind.