pork chop

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dknapp1
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Location: Paso Robles, CA

pork chop

Post by dknapp1 »

All, I have pics of the parts that look bad - here:
http://s185.photobucket.com/albums/x208/dknapp1/shopsmith/

Basically it's an old shopsmith - I think that the issues was with the bearings, but I'd like some advice as to what I should replace.

Is this the part?
515556
Control Sheave Assembly
May require replacement in the event the bearing gets clogged and ceases to turn, or if the snap-on rectangular retaining loop pulls off the end of the control sheave.

Also, how do I tell if the pork chop needs replaced?

Thanks in advance for any thoughts you might have.

dbk
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dusty
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Post by dusty »

Control Sheave Assembly, 515556, is more than the pork chop.

The "Pork Chop" is the Quadrant Assembly, 504221, a part of the Control Sheave Assembly.

Try searching the on line catalog for some more detailed drawings of the parts you might be interested in.

http://www.shopsmith.com/ownersite/

The catalog can be downloaded from this page on the website and then viewed on your computer with the ability to enlarge the darwings.
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dknapp1
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Location: Paso Robles, CA

Post by dknapp1 »

Doh! I guess I never really said what the problem was - it seems as though the retaining ring broke off the sheave and when I went out there again, I noticed that the sheave had fallen off the spindle. The inner part of the sheave looks stripped. So, I think I need a sheave and the ring.

I think I can take a pic of the inner part of the sheave if that helps explain things.

Is this a typical problem when the sheaves aren't lubricated.

Thanks!

dbk
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billmayo
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Control Sheave Replacement

Post by billmayo »

Thius is a common problem with older headstocks that may not have been lubicated or not enough lubication or a non-lubicating oil was used. The ball bearing in the end of the Control Sheave came apart. You will need a replacement Control Sheave (515556).

If you find any play when shaking the quadrant (reach inside the headstock and see if it is lose) or if the Speed Control Handle is hard to turn in either direction without the Control Sheave hooked to the quadrant or you can see or feel damage, then you need to remove the Speed Control Assembly and see what damage has been done. I have always needed to replace the quadrant when the Control Sheave bearing came apart.

Shopsmith and I recommend that you use 6 drops of oil for the Control Sheave. This is how the Control Sheave bearing gets lubicated. I use Zoom Sprout Turbine Oil for my lubication.

dknapp1 wrote:Doh! I guess I never really said what the problem was - it seems as though the retaining ring broke off the sheave and when I went out there again, I noticed that the sheave had fallen off the spindle. The inner part of the sheave looks stripped. So, I think I need a sheave and the ring.

I think I can take a pic of the inner part of the sheave if that helps explain things.

Is this a typical problem when the sheaves aren't lubricated.

Thanks!

dbk
Bill Mayo bill.mayo@verizon.net
Shopsmith owner since 73. Sell, repair and rebuild Shopsmith, Total Shop & Wood Master headstocks, SPTs, attachments, accessories and parts. US Navy 1955-1975 (FTCS/E-8)
charlese
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Post by charlese »

dknapp1 wrote:...I noticed that the sheave had fallen off the spindle. The inner part of the sheave looks stripped. So, I think I need a sheave and the ring.

I think I can take a pic of the inner part of the sheave if that helps explain things.

Is this a typical problem when the sheaves aren't lubricated.

Thanks!
dbk
Like Bill Mayo said, Yes this is a typical problem of under-lubrication.

The thing you mentioned that caught my eyes is - The sheave fell off of the (spindle) the shaft. To me that probably means the short key (actually about 3 inches long) has rounded edges and also the key-way in the shaft itself may have been damaged in the process. This happened to me in my newer Mark V (from inadequate lubrication) and I had to replace the entire Idler Shaft assembly and the Control sheave. These two items included the key and the retaining ring/bearing.

Your older Mark V probably has some different issues in removing/installing. I Recommend you call Shop smith and ask for help in ordering.

Also, I noticed your speed control shaft/worm gear and your quadrant looks like they have been void of grease for quite a while. They will need inspection to see if there is wear that will require replacement.
Octogenarian's have an earned right to be a curmudgeon.
Chuck in Lancaster, CA
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JPG
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Pix ???

Post by JPG »

I am possibly confused. Your pix clearly shows a retaining ring and what appears to be the 'button' on the end of the pork chop end on the control sheave in the last three views.

In all of the other three the retaining ring is where it is supposed to be!

I am going to assume that the ring etc. fell off AFTER the first three pix were taken(or you put it back on somehow?).

At the very least you need a new control sheave(515556).

You say it 'fell off the shaft'? This is I think unusual unless you remove the speed control assembly FIRST.[Maybe unusual?]

The control sheave slides on the control shaft and has a 'key way' slot in it's bore. This slot rides on a key which nestles into another key way slot on the control shaft. This "key" has a slight 'crook' in the end away from the control sheave and serves as a keeper to prevent it from sliding along the shaft key way.

If you look at both the control sheave and the idler sheave(the other half) you will see that they both are segmented to allow them to "overlap". The key serves to insure that these segments mesh properly.

Look for possible wear of the key and the mating parts. If any are worn, replace them also.key(504209)(I have not seen idler sheave/control shaft wear problems since they do not move relative to each other.

When properly assembled, the sheave halveS should not have excessive rotational play on the control shaft.

If you have any doubts as to the 'fitness' of the speed control assembly, replace it!(504198) You should be able to see any wear of the pork chop(quadrant gear). The roll pin securing the quadrant gear to the rest of the speed control assembly has a tendency to be sloppy causing misalignment of the 'porkchop' teeth to the worm gear.

While you are engaged in this restorative activity, check the speed control knob to make sure it has all the gear teeth it should have. Also consider replacing BOTH the drive belt(521682) and polyv/gilmer belt 521681/521683 as appropriate. Also check for missing teeth on speed indicator dial.

Finally become familiar with saw dust session 23. Nick completely disassembles the drive train and reassembles it as well as explaining how to properly adjust the speed control/speed indicator dial(necessary if speed control assembly is removed/replaced).

Sounds much more complicated than it really is. GOOD LUCK!!!!:)
╔═══╗
╟JPG ╢
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Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10
E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
dknapp1
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Location: Paso Robles, CA

Post by dknapp1 »

Thanks All!

Jpg - yes, the ring was clearly broken, and loose, so I took it out for the last three pics.

Also, I did take off the speed dial assembly because it seemed a bit wobbly, so I thought while I was waiting for responses, I'd see if anything was broken inside it and perhaps give it a cleaning too.

I've seen a number of mentions of the roll pin, so I'll see if I can figure out what that is and check for fit and wear.

Thanks again!
dbk
David Knapp
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charlese
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Post by charlese »

(I have not seen idler sheave/control shaft wear problems since they do not move relative to each other.)

One would think there should be no wear between the two parts since they only slide back and forth while the key absorbs the rotational forces.

However, from my own experience of not lubricating well enough, and giving the machine a lot of use, the control shaft "tube" (made of brass/bronze) actually began to change into an oval shape. The steel shaft of the idler sheave had become worn and the the key had rotated in it's key-way causing rounded edges on the key and spread and worn the sides of the key-way.

This damage was accomplished/caused during 4 years continuous use with improper lubrication.:(
Octogenarian's have an earned right to be a curmudgeon.
Chuck in Lancaster, CA
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JPG
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"Idler sheave not control sheave"

Post by JPG »

I stand by my previous post re IDLER sheave/Control shaft wear.

Only the CONTROL Sheave "slides back and forth on the shaft".

Yes the key/keyway slot DO become worn(I have one to prove it, but it took 40+ years to do so).... Proper lubrication would probably have prevented it!

The idler sheave is kept from sliding on the shaft by the sheave clip.:) :)
╔═══╗
╟JPG ╢
╚═══╝

Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10
E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
charlese
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Post by charlese »

jpg40504 wrote:...
Only the CONTROL Sheave "slides back and forth on the shaft"....

...The idler sheave is kept from sliding on the shaft by the sheave clip.:) :)
I agree 100% - :)

Sorry I didn't word my post correctly! However the wear can, and did occur as I described. Guess it depends on how many times the speed is increased from slow to fast, while not oiling properly.
Octogenarian's have an earned right to be a curmudgeon.
Chuck in Lancaster, CA
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