bshaff wrote:Thanks for all the help. I think I will try some on the inside of the leg first and see how it turns out. I sure don't like the idea of stripping it all off. I will have to completely tear it all down again in order to paint it properly so that will be enough work.
One more question: I have recently rebuilt the headstock but did not change the bearings in the motor. How would I tell if they needed to be changed. Now when it runs it sounds like the shaft is turning on sand. I have had this machine for some time and used it with no problem. The people I got it from took excellent care of it. Any info will be helpful. If I am going to tear it all apart again I need to know if I should go ahead and change the bearing.
Barry
Barry,
If the bearings sound like gravel, they are just waiting to fail. As they get hotter they'll make the motor work harder, draw more amps, and reduce its useful life. They are fairly inexpensive to replace. Here's the bearingsyou'll need. I got minethrough VBX.com and I think they totaled to about $10.
If the bearings sound like gravel, they are just waiting to fail. As they get hotter they'll make the motor work harder, draw more amps, and reduce its useful life. They are fairly inexpensive to replace. Here's the bearingsyou'll need. I got minethrough VBX.com and I think they totaled to about $10.
Be advised the Emerson motor I have replaced bearings in had a 5/8" rear bearing(6203-2RS-10)!
Sorry to be harping about the minimal percent, but it can be a gotcha!
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╟JPG ╢
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Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
How do you folks get all the handles and locks etc to look so much like new. I have gone over mine with green scotchbrite and steel wool but can not get them as shiny as yours. I was looking at Mikes and see how nice they look. Any suggestions?
bshaff wrote:How do you folks get all the handles and locks etc to look so much like new. I have gone over mine with green scotchbrite and steel wool but can not get them as shiny as yours. I was looking at Mikes and see how nice they look. Any suggestions?
Barry
He cheats. He has one of those barrels of "elbow grease".
"Making Sawdust Safely" Dusty
Sent from my Dell XPS using Firefox.
bshaff wrote:How do you folks get all the handles and locks etc to look so much like new. I have gone over mine with green scotchbrite and steel wool but can not get them as shiny as yours. I was looking at Mikes and see how nice they look. Any suggestions?
Barry
This is the post where Mickyd explains how he polished the aluminum. Primarily, he sanded the parts and then polished them. The SS parts are brushed and don't have smooth surfaces so it takes a LOT of sanding to get to that point. Basically, you have to sand deep enough to remove all casting lines, gouges and scratches. I really wanted to achieve that mirror finish but after some experimentation I found it to be time consuming but worse, the butterfly nuts and such become slippery and not as easy to grip in practical use.
This is a set of instructions I compiled when I was looking into it.
[ATTACH]11970[/ATTACH]
I'm not advising one way or another, that's just my two cents.
judaspre1982 wrote:Mickyd did do a beautiful job on his restoration. The problem with polished alum is it's hard to keep it looking that way.
I wonder if Mike would ever want to do that process over again:D
Dave
Maintenance isn't a problem Dave. They still look PPPPEEERRRRFFFEEECCCTTTTT. Tom K turned me onto NEVR-DUL available at my local Walmart that removes the subtle oxidation on polished aluminum. It's in pad form. Wipe it down once a year and your good to go.
Thanks for the compliment. Worked hard at it as you know.
Oh, and would I ever do it again.....ABSOLUTELY!!! It looks beautiful and worth the labor. Just make sure to use power tools vs. doing it by hand. I learned that the hard way. I got pretty fast once I brought electricity into the process.
judaspre1982 wrote:That's good to know she still shines!
Never tried Never Dull before. Sounds like good stuff.
I have a polished alum GMC hitch receiver cover that needs polishing once a month. But it is outside on my truck most of the time.Polished alum kept inside would be easier to take care of I imagine.
I will try the stuff and see how it works
ps
good to here from you again!
Dave
no lie about Nevr Dull. Stuff flat out rocks. tried i FTHOI on my mildly polished SS parts and it shined up NICELY!! not near MickyD, but better than it was.
If you're gonna go, go with a smile!
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