Shopsmith Forums

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judaspre1982 wrote:Bucksaw, you are correct. Sorry for the confusion on my part. I have been looking thru Mikes pics and rereading many of his posts and I posted an answer before reading his last post correctly. Sorry Mickyd----Dave

Oh ya!!! Give me a heart attack why don't ya!!:D I was thinking "man, I have remained so incredibly organized as I took this beast apart with my ziploc bag, clearly identified, checking again parts lists, and I actually BLEW IT! Glad YOU messed up.

Now what about the "Where'd you get the bearing" question you asked?

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Mike: That Heart attack Scare part will stop happening after you survive enough of the false alarms and realize there is nothing productive to come out of them(unless you need to run or fight). Do you understand the reference to 2r in #272? Little late, but good for future reference.

Bucksaw - don't know the history. I am the third owner that I know of. Just going off the serial number plate. I do believe the paint is original.

JPG40504 wrote:Mike: That Heart attack Scare part will stop happening after you survive enough of the false alarms and realize there is nothing productive to come out of them(unless you need to run or fight). Do you understand the reference to 2r in #272? Little late, but good for future reference.

Until I have my first smalll project completed, I'll have many more heart attack scares, whether self induced or forum created.

No idea what 2r stands for. Interested in finding out though so either you or someone else lay it on!!

mickyd wrote:Until I have my first smalll project completed, I'll have many more heart attack scares, whether self induced or forum created.

No idea what 2r stands for. Interested in finding out though so either you or someone else lay it on!!

It refers to the shields which enclose the ball race. A 2r has shield on both sides. Some bearing mfr part # use ZZ to specify the same.
I do not think yours are shielded, hence the visibility of the lubricant. Another option is 'sealed' which also includes a sealant in addition to the shields.

RR or 2R means 2 rubber seals. ZZ or 2Z means 2 steel or stainless shields. ZZ type bearings are rated for higher speeds and the shields do not contact the bearing surfaces, thus you get some oozing because they are acting as a shield to protect the bearing from dirt, dust, etc. The rubber seals can be in contact or not in contact and give you a better seal however bearings are rated for lower speed use and can also have some oozing. All the Shopsmith headstock and motor bearings I've worked on had the ZZ type bearings installed and all have shown some sign of having oozed at some point in their life. Some of the newer bearings on the market (quite a bit more expensive than the ones in your headstock) are available with different sealing material and different lubrication products that do a much better job of sealing the bearing. You can as much as $150 (maybe more) each for some of the high end 6205 bearings the are designed for high speed, long life, clean environments.


Good site for bearing info: AHR

judaspre1982 wrote:.....................How much tension do you have on the Gilmer belt? You said you only ran it for a minute so Im guessing you have not done the tension adjustment yet. I guess I just do not like to see grease oozing from a bearing at such an early stage . It may be normal tho. Maybe someone else who has used aftermarket bearings will post. Im going to wipe the egg off my face now:D -----Dave

Actually Dave, I have tensioned my belt. I did that at the time of reassembly. As far as how much tension. I have roughly 1/8" deflection slop in the belt. I turned the eccentric adjusting bushing (ref. 103) until it was just tight, making sure to no tighten so much as to stretch the belt. I followed thesawdust sessionon rebuilding the drive train real time as I was putting it together. Laptop was in the shop and sawdust session playing.

bucksaw wrote:RR or 2R means 2 rubber seals. ZZ or 2Z means 2 steel or stainless shields. ZZ type bearings are rated for higher speeds and the shields do not contact the bearing surfaces, thus you get some oozing because they are acting as a shield to protect the bearing from dirt, dust, etc. The rubber seals can be in contact or not in contact and give you a better seal however bearings are rated for lower speed use and can also have some oozing. All the Shopsmith headstock and motor bearings I've worked on had the ZZ type bearings installed and all have shown some sign of having oozed at some point in their life. Some of the newer bearings on the market (quite a bit more expensive than the ones in your headstock) are available with different sealing material and different lubrication products that do a much better job of sealing the bearing. You can as much as $150 (maybe more) each for some of the high end 6205 bearings the are designed for high speed, long life, clean environments.


Good site for bearing info: AHR

Great thorough explanation. Thanks so much. There is soooo much to know.

When I ordered my bearings, I told the guy they were going in woodworking equipment. I had the reference listing that you posted in this threadon bearing replacement. (p.s. how'd a software guy become such a "bearing head"?? )

Are you saying above the the GREASE ooze is what is shielding and protecting the bearing from crud? It does make sense.

I just realized that I never documented what replacement bearings I installed when I did my rebuild so here it is:

My 2 Gilmer drive sleeve bearings installed on my Greenie are Koyo PN6205ZZC3 ($9.63 ea.)

My 2 motor bearings installed are Koyo PN62032RSC3 ($7.80ea.)

My single quill bearing is Fafner PN202KDD5C1 ($19.70 ea).


p.s. I noticed you added your Greenie SN / mfg. date to your signature. GREAT IDEA! I am going to do the same. EVERYBODY should.