Restoration Progress On My 1952 ER10

[JPG]

Mike thanks for the updates. Boy that is some UGLY rust on the way tubes. Hope you can get it disassembled and recover them successfully.

Some sellers on e-bay would call that slight surface rust that will clean up nicely to provide years of satisfactory use!:D

[etc92guy]

Use Kroil......I've seen it due some amazing things. I think it penetrates down to .005". What about sanding the tubes to get the top layer off? Then dump it in the tank?

[JPG]

Use Kroil......I've seen it due some amazing things. I think it penetrates down to .005". What about sanding the tubes to get the top layer off? Then dump it in the tank?

Do NOT overlook plain old Kerosene! It penetrates!

[heathicus]

My 2nd 10ER had way tubes that were rusted about that bad (yours may actually be slightly worse). What I did was take some strips of emery cloth and lightly sand the tubes.



Wrap the emery cloth around the tube and do the back and forth shoe-shine method. Just enough to take out the worst of the surface rust. Then, I soaked the tubes down with 3-in-1 oil. Maybe there's better oil for that, but that's just what I had plenty of. But to get the parts free, I had to use Kroil. WD-40, 3-in-1, Liquid Wrench and hours of pounding with a rubber mallet did nothing to break the parts free. Kroil did the trick, though. I could only find it locally in an aerosol can called "Aero Kroil."



Apply a little Kroil to all of the crevices where the tubes emerge from the headstock, carriage, etc. Remove the set screws and apply some Kroil in those holes. Wait about 30 minutes or so, then start tapping with a rubber mallet. Apply more Kroil if necessary. If you don't have enough room between the parts to get a good swing with the mallet, use a 2"x2" board. Butt one end against the headstock or carriage and whack the other end with the mallet. Eventually, you should see things moving. I got better movement if I hit one side near one tube, then the other side near the other tube rather than hitting the middle.

It's going to be hard work getting everything off of the tubes. But keep the tubes oiled down and use Kroil and you'll eventually get everything free.

Another note on Kroil. It's kind of expensive and a little bit goes a long way so you don't need to soak your tubes with it or apply so much it's running everywhere. Just apply a tiny bit to the seams and holes, watch it soak into those seams (even running "uphill!"), then apply a tiny bit more. Eventually you'll see it coming out on the other side and that should be enough.

[heathicus]

Oh, another thing to check for on the headstock and carriage is the lock wedges. On both of mine, the wedges were twisted and wedged TOO far between the castings and tubes. Loosening the lock handle would not free up the wedges. If that's the case on yours, remove the lock handle by unscrewing it completely then use a punch or a nail or something similar to knock out each wedge.

[beeg]

And I wonder if loosing the tubes and trying to twist them around might help????

[heathicus]

And I wonder if loosing the tubes and trying to twist them around might help????

If you have a strap wrench, maybe. I don't think you'd want to use a pipe wrench on them.

[mickyd]

Wow. Lots of good ideas flowing. Thanks a lot!!

Use Kroil......I've seen it due some amazing things. I think it penetrates down to .005". What about sanding the tubes to get the top layer off? Then dump it in the tank?

Called them this morning and they offer a money back guarantee if it doesn't work. It can't be found locally in SoCal. (Arnold probably terminated it's use here). They advertise penetrates to 1/1,000,000". Sure would love to see the method they used to validate that!!:eek:

Here's the recipe

Chemical name, CAS#, %
[align=left]Severely Hydrotreated Petroleum Distillates, 64742-52-5, 30-50%
Light Petroleum Distillates, 64742-95-6/64742-88-7/64742-47-8, 30-50%
Aliphatic Alcohols 78-92-2/123-42-2, 1-5%
Glycol Ether, 111-76-2, 1-5%[/align]
Proprietary Ingredients Proprietary 5-15%

Sure seems like a huge % range they work to. That's what my moms chicken soup used to be like....whatever was in the fridge!! She used to even make it with NO CHICKEN!!

Do NOT overlook plain old Kerosene! It penetrates!

I wrestle with kerosene vs. Kyroil. I'd like to try the kerosene first but.....I think I just gotta see what this Kyroil is all about. Flows UPHILL!

Here's the recipe for kerosene



[align=left]Chemical name, CAS #, % by Weight[/align]




[align=left]Kerosene, 8008-20-6 or 64742-81, 100%[/align]

My 2nd 10ER had way tubes that were rusted about that bad (yours may actually be slightly worse). What I did was take some strips of emery cloth and lightly sand the tubes........

Apply a little Kroil to all of the crevices where the tubes emerge from the headstock, carriage, etc. Remove the set screws and apply some Kroil in those holes. Wait about 30 minutes or so, then start tapping with a rubber mallet. Apply more Kroil if necessary.
Another note on Kroil. It's kind of expensive........ Just apply a tiny bit to the seams and holes, watch it soak into those seams (even running "uphill!"), then apply a tiny bit more. Eventually you'll see it coming out on the other side and that should be enough.

I like this info heath. It gives me a little hope that with some time and patients, I at least stand a chance. Your 2nd ER was pretty bad. If any of you haven't seen it, check it out:

http://www.shopsmith.net/forums/showpost.htm?p=37601&postcount=1

Oh, another thing to check for on the headstock and carriage is the lock wedges. On both of mine.......

This won't be problem. I have already removed both of mine. Mine were the one piece style and came right out
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And I wonder if loosing the tubes and trying to twist them around might help????

I think this is a GREAT idea beeg. I don't know if the component contact surface area is so great that it would take a ton of torque but it may be worth a try. I'll wrap the tubes with leather belt to protect them. I'll have to see. The tubes are thick enough where they should be able to withstand a pretty decent torque with a hefty pipe wrench.

OK, back to my think tank. Keep the gray matter active and post any ideas. Thanks again.

[JPG]

"Uphill" = Capillary Action! Interesting that you can SEE it coming through the 'other side'.

[beeg]

And I wonder if loosing the tubes and trying to twist them around might help????

Well I DID mean twist em by hand. Then putting it in drill press position, then oil the tubes. MAYBE that evaporust may help out?