A little challenge

[algale]

algale: Your results are better than were mine which (I think) means your deflector is doing a better job than mine did at that point.

I have modified my original approach. The modification greatly improved the results.

This videowill show what I had until I modified the deflector to rap around on the side. In the video you can see where much of the saw dust comes from.

Clicking the link brings up a frowny face saying the video is private. Edit: link fixed

[dusty]

Clicking the link brings up a frowny face saying the video is private.

There is something to learn every day. I did not know about the public/private setting.

I have a dozen or so video's posted that are private. This confuses me because theyhave all been viewed many times. I must have somehow changed the settings.

Anyhow, you should be able to view the Dust Collection video now.

Thanks for the feedback.

[algale]

There is something to learn every day. I did not know about the public/private setting.

I have a dozen or so video's posted that are private. This confuses me because theu have all been viewed many times. I must have somehow changed the settings.

Anyhow, you should be able to view the Dust Collection video now.

Thanks for the feedback.

Yes I see the link is fixed. Did you make two cuts, one after the other, in the video? At first it seems most of the dust is escaping from the tie bar guard side; then it seemed like there was a pause, and quite a bit came out the front side. At least that's how it looked to me.

[algale]

My accordion style dust deflector performed extremely well with normal and dado cuts. To get good dust collection with the table flat, the deflector must go up above the part of the lower saw guard the table rests on and in fact right up inside the table insert. When tilting the table this becomes problematic for my design because the right side of the insert is lower than the left;this is why the front lip on the lower saw guard is beveled. A small change in the deflector solves this problem. The deflector is held to the angle aluminum with screws and nuts (and now washers). All that was required was to elongate the original attachment holes in the deflector into slots. This allows the deflector to be set to its optimum height for normal cuts, and to be pushed lower to accommodate bevel cuts.

Here is a photo with the deflector at maximum height (for normal cuts):
[ATTACH]23265[/ATTACH]

And here is a photo with the deflector at minimum height (for 45 degree bevel cuts):
[ATTACH]23266[/ATTACH]

Here is a photo from the back of the table looking forward showing the table tilted and ready to make sawdust. The deflector is visible at the front of the insert:
[ATTACH]23267[/ATTACH]

To accommodate tilting the table, the the lower saw guard is at its minimum width to allow the tie bar guard to slide past the right side of the lower saw guard. This requires the accordion dust deflector to be collapsed to its minimum width, as seen in the prior photo. Here's what it looks like below the table:
[ATTACH]23268[/ATTACH]

In the next post I'll show some photos of the results of making a bevel cut with this set up.

Al

[algale]

Here's the bevel cut I made with the accordion style dust deflector:
[ATTACH]23269[/ATTACH]
That cut goes all the way though and along the full length. I put the pieces back on the table (as it turns out I flipped them) for the photo and probably didn't arrange them that well.

But what matters is this photo that shows the result:
[ATTACH]23270[/ATTACH]

Imperfect -- but better than what I get without the deflector.

There's a short video of making the cut on YouTube;
unfortunately it is hard to film below the table, particularly when making bevel cuts so it isn't the greatest. If you wish to see it, here's the link: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2dLb-YaWs3M

Overall, I think I am done tinkering with the dust deflector for a while. It works both with the table tilted and flat and with dados; but does require some care and attention to set up before the cut. About the same amount of care/set up it takes to get the lower saw guard set to the correct width. I would love to find some rubber or silicone material in an accordion design to test as a material but have been unable to find anything on the web.

[dusty]

[quote="algale"]Yes I see the link is fixed. Did you make two cuts, one after the other, in the video? At first it seems most of the dust is escaping from the tie bar guard side]

That was one single cut. I noticed that same thing and have no explanation.

[dusty]

Here's the bevel cut I made with the accordion style dust deflector:
[ATTACH]23269[/ATTACH]
That cut goes all the way though and along the full length. I put the pieces back on the table (as it turns out I flipped them) for the photo and probably didn't arrange them that well.

But what matters is this photo that shows the result:
[ATTACH]23270[/ATTACH]

Imperfect -- but better than what I get without the deflector.

There's a short video of making the cut on YouTube]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2dLb-YaWs3M[/URL]

Overall, I think I am done tinkering with the dust deflector for a while. It works both with the table tilted and flat and with dados; but does require some care and attention to set up before the cut. About the same amount of care/set up it takes to get the lower saw guard set to the correct width. I would love to find some rubber or silicone material in an accordion design to test as a material but have been unable to find anything on the web.

It looks to me like you have made great progress and I understand why you are hesitating to make more changes. Go make sawdust. Time will tell.

I am not going to make anymore changes to mine, either. We have different solutions but seem to work. Yours appear to be better and is certainly easier to fabricate. Good show.

[algale]

It looks to me like you have made great progress and I understand why you are hesitating to make more changes. Go make sawdust. Time will tell.

I am not going to make anymore changes to mine, either. We have different solutions but seem to work. Yours appear to be better and is certainly easier to fabricate. Good show.

Well, I made a a fair amount of saw dust this afternoon. I'm milling strips for my canoe. The idea is to start with an 8 ft cedar board 6 inches wide and 3/4 thick. Then rip it into as many 1/4 inch wide strips as possible. I just finished ripping the first board. Because the rips are so narrow, the fence is so close to the blade that you can't use the upper saw guard at all (although I do use the riving knife). The long and short of it is that with the deflector in place in the lower saw guard there is more dust on top of the table than below it either on the carriage or the floor. I will continue to use this set up until someone comes up with something better.

[reible]

Well, I made a a fair amount of saw dust this afternoon. I'm milling strips for my canoe. The idea is to start with an 8 ft cedar board 6 inches wide and 3/4 thick. Then rip it into as many 1/4 inch wide strips as possible. I just finished ripping the first board. Because the rips are so narrow, the fence is so close to the blade that you can't use the upper saw guard at all (although I do use the riving knife). The long and short of it is that with the deflector in place in the lower saw guard there is more dust on top of the table than below it either on the carriage or the floor. I will continue to use this set up until someone comes up with something better.

Sorry if this is bit off subject but this might be helpful to you and others attempting to rip narrow stock and still using the guards. I made one of these many many years ago for my 500 then added a 520 version when I updated.

http://www.shopsmith.com/academy/tblsaw ... /index.htm

From there go to ripping narrow stock

It is a very simple jig to make.

Now please return to the former subject of the thread.

Ed

[algale]

Sorry if this is bit off subject but this might be helpful to you and others attempting to rip narrow stock and still using the guards. I made one of these many many years ago for my 500 then added a 520 version when I updated.

http://www.shopsmith.com/academy/tblsaw ... /index.htm

From there go to ripping narrow stock

It is a very simple jig to make.

Now please return to the former subject of the thread.

Ed

Thanks for the good advice, Ed.