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Posted: Tue Jan 18, 2011 5:27 pm
by dusty
WOW. That puppie has been abused big time. Don't abuse it any more.

NO HAMMERS ALLOWED!!!

Loosen the eccentric - take the bolt and nut completely off of the eccentric. Remove that phillips head screw. Using a screw driver, see if the eccentric can be turned.

Posted: Tue Jan 18, 2011 10:37 pm
by JPG
ddvann79 wrote:Based on some ideas from Bill Mayo, I decided to see if I could improve upon the alignment method for the pork chop in the speed changer. It came from the factory with a roll pin and there was some play between the ears. The worm screw was wearing the rack teeth on one side. I ran down to my local tractor supply and they didn't have any nylocks or star washers in stock so I grabbed a few lock washers and standard #8 carriage bolt and nut. Here's what I did.

The lock washer is pretty wide so I could only fit one in between the pork chop and the ears. In this photo it looks like the ears splay out. I don't know if that was from the factory or not.
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I know it looks horribly skewed but it actually centers the worm over the quadrant gear.
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I used a standard hex nut and used a method that SS used to employ to keep the trunnion stud nut in place]11503[/ATTACH]

After this rather ugly repair, I wash shocked at how smoothly the screw turned on the gear. Before, it was all I could do to back the worm screw off. Now, I can easily spin the shaft from the speedial side with no binding whatsoever. We'll see if this approach works once up and running! I am concerned that as the lock washer turns over time it will dig into the softer aluminum of the quadrant or ears. Also, I'm a bit concerned as to how this will line up with the control sheave but I believe there is enough play in the clip.

Incidentally, I don't think I would try this offset method with most speed controllers since they are probably better centered than this one was. My quadrant gear was very worn to one side. This is what I would envision with star washers, in most cases.
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The pork chop wear you described is quite typical. The leg(where you added the lockwasher) is indeed 'bent'. Carefully bending back would eliminate the need for the washer. Also the worm gear appears to be still out of line with the path of the quadrant gear(front to rear bending of the leg).

Since it seems to be 'much improved', I would run with what you have already done and only come back to it if needed in the future.

Any 'bending' needs to be done with a bolt in place to prevent a 'slip' over bending the leg. Slow application of pressure(slowly closing a vise), is necessary.

P.S. when the 'legs' are spaced properly, washers are not needed! ---- star washers????

Posted: Wed Jan 19, 2011 9:17 am
by dusty
The porkchop wear is indeed typical - on machines that have not been diligently maintained . This can be avoided in almost all cases. The first sign that something is out of whack is a "difficult to adjust" speed control. Clean, lubricate frequently. If the speed control becomes hard to turn, DON'T. There is a reason why and the solution IS NOT APPLY MORE FORCE.

Posted: Wed Jan 19, 2011 10:18 am
by JPG
dusty wrote:The porkchop wear is indeed typical - on machines that have not been diligently maintained . This can be avoided in almost all cases. The first sign that something is out of whack is a "difficult to adjust" speed control. Clean, lubricate frequently. If the speed control becomes hard to turn, DON'T. There is a reason why and the solution IS NOT APPLY MORE FORCE.
Wise words indeed!!!!!!!

Lipstick

Posted: Wed Jan 19, 2011 12:06 pm
by ddvann79
Thanks, gentlemen. We'll see what happens. I'd rather not try to bend the ears around the quadrant unless I have to - the fewer stress points the better. If the speed changer doesn't run smoothly in operation, I'll likely just purchase new. Who knows when "operation" will happen.

Auto parts houses carry touch up paint in a tube with a pen and brush applicator. I picked up a tube of Ford "Cardinal Red" and redid the red paint. Here's the feed stop dial with the paint still wet. I haven't cleaned up all the excess yet.

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Despite cleaning with a fine wire wheel, Brasso, steel wool, and three shades of polishing compound, I still haven't been able to get all the tarnish off these aluminum parts, especially the wing nuts and the logo cover. At this point, I'm tired of dealing with it so I'm giving up on aluminum as shiny as Mickyd's. :(

Posted: Wed Jan 19, 2011 3:11 pm
by JPG
ddvann79 wrote: . . .

Despite cleaning with a fine wire wheel, Brasso, steel wool, and three shades of polishing compound, I still haven't been able to get all the tarnish off these aluminum parts, especially the wing nuts and the logo cover. At this point, I'm tired of dealing with it so I'm giving up on aluminum as shiny as Mickyd's. :(
They are supposed to be brushed aluminum anyway, not 'polished'!:D

Red paint looks good to me! Did the ball point tip fit down into the 'engraving'?

Posted: Wed Jan 19, 2011 6:10 pm
by ddvann79
JPG40504 wrote:They are supposed to be brushed aluminum anyway, not 'polished'!:D

Red paint looks good to me! Did the ball point tip fit down into the 'engraving'?
Unfortunately, the pen on this particular bottle was a dud, even on a flat surface. Don't know if it was clogged or what. The ball did fit into the engraved numbers and slots but not fully.

More Lipstick

Posted: Wed Jan 19, 2011 10:42 pm
by ddvann79
After more thoroughly researching Mickyd's polishing/sanding method, I'm definitely going to stay with the "brushed" look. Although I learned a lot about polishing compounds.

Here's the logos after cleaning up the excess paint. I sanded off the excess with 400 grit wet/dry and used a utility knife for some cleanup. I'm fairly pleased, although I wish I had cleaned up more of the overage when it was still wet to save on sanding and aluminum dust in between letters.

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Painted Legs

Posted: Wed Jan 19, 2011 10:49 pm
by ddvann79
Here's the painting progress for the legs. I sprayed them with a coat of self etching primer and then two coats each side of the Hammered Gold. I felt like it needed it with the amount of rust on the feet. Got a little thick on one.

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Posted: Wed Jan 19, 2011 11:43 pm
by JPG
If there be another time, try electrolysis instead of the gritty stuff!;) It also removes the paint at the same time! i.e. 2 4 1 !