Shopsmith Forums

Hi;
MOVE THOSE WIRES AWAY FROM THE PORK CHOP. That will be a problem in the future!!! Does anyone who has worked on more of these units (and there are many) know why SS has never put a spacer between the casting ears under the eccentric bushing to prevent overtightening and breakage? Seems that it would be a good idea.
Bill V

ddvann79 wrote:First, let me say, "THANKS" to all you military vets. We just wouldn't be us without you.

Secondly, this is probably going to be old hat for a lot of you SS veterans but I have to share it with somebody.

................

Dalton.....we're ShopSmith junkies. Nothing is ever old hat. Keep the great photos coming.

[quote="wa2crk"]Hi] Good catch on the wires. I should have seen that because I have had the shocking surprise of squeezing the wires in the porkchop gears.

If there was a spacer, would you be able to secure the eccentric?

I'm thinking of tapping a screw into the casting to mount a bracket for the wires. That way they will be out of harm's way. Suggestions?

ddvann79 wrote:I'm thinking of tapping a screw into the casting to mount a bracket for the wires. That way they will be out of harm's way. Suggestions?

There may be no good reason for why you should not do that but I would not. I do not like the idea of drilling into the headstock. I would use and adhesive and simply attach some sort of clip for the wires.

Whatever you do, protect those wires.

Use one of the adhesive backed cable clips available from Radio Shack and other electronic suppliers. The newer adhesives have real good holding power and stay put for a long time.
Bill V

Dusty;
I don't think that the ears move more than a few thousandths to secure the eccentric. A proper bushing would permit enough movement of the eccentric to hold it in position but not so much as to cause the casting to break.
Bill V

That vintage Mark 5 did not have the cable clamp mounted under the speed control screw as like the newer models have. Anything that will hold the wires away from the speed control gearing will suffice.

Looking at the quill, I would be amazed if it exhibited any tendency to self retract. It will probably do so after being cleaned up.

I notice the position of the eccentric. The belts are probably stretched too much to be of any use anyway.

You have a 'poster machine' to instill the need for frequent blowing out of the headstock to remove sawdust etc.

The black whatever behind the quill stop dial is suspicious. What/where/why is it there? Make sure the quill shaft parts are all where they belong and are oriented correctly. Starting form the inside end of the shaft(at the retaining ring), there should be a thin flat washer, a tongued serrated washer(serration facing out) the quill lock dial, another tongued serrated washer(facing in[both washers serrated surface bear against the quill stop dial]) and finally the quill stop wing nut.

In spite of its messy appearance, it be it in pretty decent condition.

Man, you guys are good.

1. I personally think a spacer between the ears would have to be of precise size. Just small enough to compress the bushing AND large enough to keep the ears from reaching failure. I don't know that can be done. Given the inconsistencies I see in my headstock casting, I bet that fail point is going slightly different, if not drastically different for each machine.

2. I removed the drive belt last night and it is stiff as a board. I holds the shape it's been in for the last few decades.

3. The 'black whatever' behind the quill stop is indeed suspicious. With all the grime and sawdust on it, it first appeared to me to be a felt spacer (shows how much I know about these machines). It's actually the collar on the quill feed pinion (best nomenclature I can tell from the exploded diagrams) that's just behind the snap ring. bout 1" of the top of that collar is sheared off about 1/8". It has collected gunk and turned black.

4. The penetrating oil is really seeping down in between parts now and the quill is retracting about half way on it's own. I'm sure this will improve after cleaning.

I think the cord is salvageable.
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I didn't have any spare inner tubes so this is my rig for compressing the idler spring. See, small scrap wood wedges DO come in handy. The 2x4 at the edge of the bench is always bolted there as a back-up for drilling operations, clamping, a bench dog, etc.
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Post- rocket launcher removal.
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It was tough getting to that set screw behind the Speedial and even tougher getting a photograph of it.
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Speedchanger with Speedial removed. All gear teeth present and accounted for, if not slightly worn. Incidentally, I marked the casting where the hole in the Speedial was at 'fast' and the hard crayon I used actually flaked paint off.
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As an aside, here's some wooden planetary gears from one of my favorite websites. His gear template generator is also worth a look (talk about chasing rabbits).

Great pictures, Dalton. I have not seen the motor spring before other than in nearly full compression. It is a lot longer than I would have thought. Watch out if it ever gets away from you.

Is there a reason why you are working on the motor spring with the headstock still attached to the motor pan?

It seems as though you might be getting about ready to pull the idle shaft and sheaves. It might be a bit frustrating the first time but once you have had the experience you'll wonder why.

Remember: NO HAMMERS.

I wish I could be there to witness the pleasure when you see her all cleaned up for the sawdust party and put back together.