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Posted: Sun Jan 23, 2011 9:06 pm
by ddvann79
horologist wrote:Time to walk away from it for a while. ...
Wise words. Thanks for the direction, all, and taking time to view that video. Those mental farts come from time to time. You know, when is doesn't dawn on a person that spinning the barrel with the wind direction of the spring is a bad thing to do.

JPG, your technique of reducing the ID of the spring around the shaft is precisely what I was thinking.

I should have taken the time to re-read theinstructions for rebuilding the quill feed. But they never say to keep tension on the spring (page 17). I supposed I assumed it would lock into place.

Can't wait to see those videos on the dustywoodworker channel!

Posted: Sun Jan 23, 2011 9:15 pm
by JPG
ddvann79 wrote:Wise words. Thanks for the direction, all, and taking time to view that video. Those mental farts come from time to time. You know, when is doesn't dawn on a person that spinning the barrel with the wind direction of the spring is a bad thing to do.

JPG, your technique of reducing the ID of the spring around the shaft is precisely what I was thinking.

I should have taken the time to re-read theinstructions for rebuilding the quill feed. But they never say to keep tension on the spring (page 17). I supposed I assumed it would lock into place.

Can't wait to see those videos on the dustywoodworker channel!
Troy said the same thing!

Re Dustywoodworker channel - I do not think they will allow him to post 3 hours of frustration! Sorry Dusty, I could not help myself!;)

Posted: Sun Jan 23, 2011 10:51 pm
by mickyd
ddvann79 wrote:Is that it? Keep tension on it? Good grief.
Great video. As dusty suggested, the only procedure your missing is keeping the spring tension preloaded once you've got it on.

SHORT Quill Spring Video

Posted: Sun Jan 23, 2011 11:23 pm
by ddvann79
Thanks to all of you for your help. I got the quill back together and here's the video on my method for reattaching the quill feed spring correctly. This one's 1:15 long (unlike the last one).

Quill Spring Vid

EDIT: The correct solution to keeping the spring in place on the shaft is to simply hold it in place while inserting the assembly into the headstock. Once assembled, the spring will stay in place. On newer springs the slot is tighter and has better tendency to stay on the stud on the shaft.

Now on to other questions...

Feed Stop Space

Posted: Sun Jan 23, 2011 11:42 pm
by ddvann79
When I inherited this SS, there was no flat washer behind the feed stop dial. Just the knurled washers. I added one and the dial is separated from the headstock by about 1/4". Without it, there is still a separation of about 1/8". Is this normal? This is the order in which the quill feed is assembled.

[ATTACH]11602[/ATTACH]

Posted: Mon Jan 24, 2011 12:00 am
by wannabewoodworker
Just read a bunch of your posts on your rebuilding journey. Brings back memories of last winter doing my Mark VII and Mark V. You are doing beautifully and soon you will be finished. When I got my Mark VII and started rebuilding it I learned many of the things you are going through now although I did not have trouble with many of the things you experienced as I used to be a mechanic and this stuff kind of just gets in your blood. The quill feed was an interesting contraption to tackle but once I noodled the design a little bit I figured it out quickly and put that headache to rest. I was going to offer you another spring as I had to purchase another one for my Greenie which had a snapped off spring retaining pin and i did not need the spring from the one I purchased off of Ebay but it looks like you have it back in business. Keep up the good work you are progressing perfectly and soon you will be making dust. I just acquired a band saw today that is in need of some TLC so i will screwing around with it in the coming days.

Posted: Mon Jan 24, 2011 12:23 am
by JPG
ddvann79 wrote:When I inherited this SS, there was no flat washer behind the feed stop dial. Just the knurled washers. I added one and the dial is separated from the headstock by about 1/4". Without it, there is still a separation of about 1/8". Is this normal? This is the order in which the quill feed is assembled.

[ATTACH]11602[/ATTACH]
Mickyd's is normal except for all that shine!

We need to see inside the dial. Does the retaining clip clear the housing by about 1/16"? Is the flat 'washer' thin?(.040") Take a pix with the washers and dial etc. removed. Is the flat washer hitting the inside of the dial?

Quill Feed Washer

Posted: Tue Jan 25, 2011 12:11 am
by ddvann79
JPG40504 wrote:...We need to see inside the dial. Does the retaining clip clear the housing by about 1/16"? Is the flat 'washer' thin?(.040") Take a pix with the washers and dial etc. removed. Is the flat washer hitting the inside of the dial?
Here's the quill feed without the washer.
[ATTACH]11607[/ATTACH]

And the resulting spacing. This looks "normal" to me compared to photos of other SS.
[ATTACH]11603[/ATTACH]

Here's with the washer.
[ATTACH]11605[/ATTACH]

And the resulting spacing.
[ATTACH]11604[/ATTACH]

Here's the washer. It's 3/32" thick. It was one I had in the shop and filed the ID down to fit. Again, when I picked up the SS it didn't have a washer.
[ATTACH]11606[/ATTACH]

Posted: Tue Jan 25, 2011 12:46 am
by nuhobby
FYI, I've seen a few Mark V's working without the washer there, into 1980s vintage. I'm not convinced they were always used -- maybe at least being dropped during a rebuild some time.

Your fabricated washer is certainly thicker than the factory ones. The factory ones are definitely thin.

Sharp looking machine there!

Posted: Tue Jan 25, 2011 12:51 am
by JPG
Notice the washer is nearly as thin as the retaining ring

I noticed something else! Need to 'fix' that!