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Casting Defect
Posted: Tue Feb 08, 2011 9:28 pm
by ddvann79
Notice anything? Anybody see any future problems here? I'm assuming it came from the factory this way.
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Posted: Tue Feb 08, 2011 9:39 pm
by SDSSmith
ddvann79 wrote:Notice anything? Anybody see any future problems here? I'm assuming it came from the factory this way.
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I have seen quite a few machines. I have never seen an arm casting like that. I would install the back way tube first to use as a reference for the front way tube. I would also make sure that you have your set screws tight (no need for a cheater, just tight). Must have been a bad casting that was machined on a Monday or a Friday. Or (can't tell) did the machinist just bore the hole for the front way tube too deep?
Posted: Tue Feb 08, 2011 9:48 pm
by ddvann79
SDSSmith wrote:... did the machinist just bore the hole for the front way tube too deep?
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Don't think so. It appears to me to be either a broken casting or an incomplete pour. It didn't look like the rough, textured edges of a break to me. A very small part of the seat is there but not much. When the tube is inserted, it feels like it bottoms out all at once instead of sliding against uneven sides so maybe it's fine. Dad never mentioned it and I bet he never knew.
EDIT: I solved the casting problem in the base arm by measuring the depth of the stop in the good side and measured the depth in the bad one. I marked the tube with a pencil and made sure it seated to the same depth in the bad casting side. There was just enough of a seat left in the casting that it bottomed out at the correct position.
Posted: Wed Feb 09, 2011 4:09 pm
by JPG
Measure the bore depth to the 'stop' on both bores. If the stop remnants are dimensionally correct I totally agree with rob. Keep in mind that loose tube setscrews are a common 'manufacturing defect'. Just be sure to snug them down.
Looking REAL good!!!
P.S. BTW the endcastings have countersink holes. Original had oval head screws(like flat head with curved top). Also internal tooth lock washers recommended there(not used originally, but current models do). How cum the pan head(used what was 'available'?)
Almost Done
Posted: Mon Feb 14, 2011 10:39 am
by ddvann79
JPG,
Yes, I had the pan heads on hand so that's what I used. I'm very ready to be done with this project.
Here's what I got done last night. All that's left is the new motor and finish assembling the miter gauge. Then... sawdust! Well, clean up the shop, then sawdust.
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Posted: Mon Feb 14, 2011 12:07 pm
by JPG
ddvann79 wrote:JPG,
Yes, I had the pan heads on hand so that's what I used. I'm very ready to be done with this project.
Here's what I got done last night. All that's left is the new motor and finish assembling the miter gauge. Then... sawdust! Well, clean up the shop, then sawdust.
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She's really looking good! BTW the original bench tubes were painted gray hammertone!:rolleyes: I understand yer impatience. I gots three in process!:(
Posted: Mon Feb 14, 2011 12:13 pm
by JPG
ddvann79 wrote:JPG,
Yes, I had the pan heads on hand so that's what I used. I'm very ready to be done with this project.
Here's what I got done last night. All that's left is the new motor and finish assembling the miter gauge. Then... sawdust! Well, clean up the shop, then sawdust.
[ATTACH]11910[/ATTACH]
She's really looking good! BTW the original bench tubes were painted gray hammertone!:rolleyes: I understand yer impatience. I gots three in process!:(
Posted: Mon Feb 14, 2011 1:42 pm
by ddvann79
JPG40504 wrote:... BTW the original bench tubes were painted gray hammertone!
I noticed that before I stripped the bench tubes but I didn't like the dull finish. I thought about using the chrome Rustoleum paint but was concerned about chipping. So I may apply a few coats of enamel but I don't think I'll paint them. From my limited experience, spray paint just doesn't hold up like factory finishes, even with careful prep work. For now they are polished with paste wax.
Posted: Mon Feb 14, 2011 2:08 pm
by robinson46176
ddvann79 wrote:I noticed that before I stripped the bench tubes but I didn't like the dull finish. I thought about using the chrome Rustoleum paint but was concerned about chipping. So I may apply a few coats of enamel but I don't think I'll paint them. From my limited experience, spray paint just doesn't hold up like factory finishes, even with careful prep work. For now they are polished with paste wax.
That reminds me. I was wondering if the "new" Mark VII has chromed tubes? One picture I saw looked like it did. Or would chromed way tubes be too slick for the locks? Might be nice to get bench tubes chromed... There is a bumper plating business here in town that I assume could do them. Might be too pricey.
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Posted: Mon Feb 14, 2011 2:29 pm
by JPG
robinson46176 wrote:That reminds me. I was wondering if the "new" Mark VII has chromed tubes? One picture I saw looked like it did. Or would chromed way tubes be too slick for the locks? Might be nice to get bench tubes chromed... There is a bumper plating business here in town that I assume could do them. Might be too pricey.
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The 'new' one is a Mark 7! I know yer old one(Mark VII) also says that.
I think 'slick highly polished chrome' would be less than ideal. My old Goldie supposedly has chromed way tubes, but it be far far away from 'smooth and polished'. Still has visible grinding marks from original mfg after all these years. Wax works!
Those I have 'restored' are much smoother. Carriages and headstocks slide much easier. Will be interesting to see how those Goldie tubes 'polish up'(when its time comes:o).
I have noticed a difference in the metal used in the old Model 10(I assume raw steel) and the 'newer/thinner' ones. I believe they
are plated, but shine up real nicely.
Shiney polished
bench tubes would require using tinted safety glasses if working out doors on a sunny day!