Shopsmith Forums

Dusty,

Oh yeah, that spring is a rocket launcher. I thought I was being careful but that collar still shot off and hit the ceiling.

Right now I'm generally following the instructions for disassembly Nick Engler posted to Sawdust Session #22. It's cleverly titled "Cleaning and Inspection." It follows the procedure Nick uses for tearing down his Goldie. Of course, I deviate here and there because I want to see how everything works. So, yes, I am in the process of pulling all the sheaves. I suppose Nick didn't remove the motor pan first for stability purposes. My headstock is completely removed from the way tubes so it has no support. I built a small cradle to hold it while I work on it so that would require the pan to still be in place.

At the moment, the fan sheave is still attached to the motor but the control sheave and idler sheave. I just removed the speed changer but haven't pulled the quill yet. I'm out of town this weekend so I'll have to wait until I get back in to continue. I'm dying to get back at it.

Just a little hammer? Kidding. I've used a wooden mallet a few times. ...but not on the headstock.

I got the headstock stripped down tonight. I haven't pulled the quill, drive shaft or quill advance shaft apart but I don't think I'm going to. Everything seems to be rolling smoothly.

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The drive shaft with some oil and sawdust mixture built up behind one of the bearings. Also, the 1" x 2" dowel I used to persuade the shaft out of the headstock by placing it between the quill and the plastic coupling and tapping the quill with a wooden mallet.
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Inside the quill. Is the metal ring I see inside a washer or is this a two-bearing quill?
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I'm concerned with the metal shavings on the spring housing. It looks like someone forced it to turn multiple revolutions with the set screw tightened. Bad joo joo.
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Should I be concerned? I'm thinking it should work just fine as long as the set screw is tightened properly.
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I've got a bent snap ring around the quill but I think I can fix that.

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I never realized how necessary it was to clean the inside of equipment like this.
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Is this plating irregularity a normal thing?
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I this washer on the quill feed supposed to be warped?
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Should I be concerned about this drive shaft bearing? It seems to run smoothly but I'm no machinist.
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Not much wear on the pork chop...
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...just filthy.
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Now I'm off to find instructions on cleaning and inspecting the motor.

First let me say that you have taken us to a new level in photo images. I don't believe my camera is even capable of that level of magnification or focus closeup. Great pictures.

Yes the washer is supposed to me bent like that.

I would replace the bearings as long as you have it torn down. You may never need to get this "down deep" again.

It does appear to be a two bearing quill.

If the porkchop is not bent and the gears align that speed comtrol mechanism should work just fine.

I will be waiting anxiously to see the fruits of your labors. Bet she'll be a beauty.

dusty wrote:First let me say that you have taken us to a new level in photo images. I don't believe my camera is even capable of that level of magnification or focus closeup. Great pictures.

It is just a 3.2 mega pixel camera.

Thanks for the assurances, Dusty. I'll have to look into that bearing. I really don't want to replace it if I don't have to. Hmmmm...

Fun stuff!

Inside that quill, the ring that looks like a 2nd bearing is probably the 'dummy' ring that keeps the quill-shaft more or less centered when putting the quill back in the headstock. If it falls out at some point, you'll know it's not actually a bearing...

Like Dusty said, it's a great time to replace any bearing you find to be bad. If a bearing spins really easy, it's on the way to failing. You ideally want a nice, viscous feel as the bearing is turned. Pressing bearings on and off is a job that needs the right tools. You can get a Harbor Freight tool for around $40, or get with someone that has a hydraulic press, etc. One time I had a local machine shop charge me $80 (parts & labor) to replace both motor bearings. Since then, I got that tool from HF -- so I did another one by myself since then.

If I replace the front bearing on the the drive shaft, I should go ahead and replace the rear as well. I don't have a bearing puller so I'd have to buy one like mickyd's and according to their website, Harbor Freight sells that for $60 plus shipping. Mike must have gotten a deal!

The bearings are about $3.30 a piece from the Bearing Store plus shipping (or from VXB). While I'm at it, I should probably just go ahead and replace the quill bearing too for $1.50.

So unless I can borrow a bearing puller from a friend, I'm looking at $80 or so. I could have someone do it for me for about the same price apparently, or just buy a new drive sleeve assembly for $101.27 plus shipping.

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But an "old style" automotive bearing puller like this should work just fine too, right? I'd have to jig up the shaft but I don't see that being a problem.

By the way, while I was searching for bearings, I ran across this "shaft collar" that looks a lot like the collars on my tailstock. It it the same thing?

ddvann79 wrote:If I replace the front bearing on the the drive shaft, I should go ahead and replace the rear as well. I don't have a bearing puller so I'd have to buy one like mickyd's and according to their website, Harbor Freight sells that for $60 plus shipping. Mike must have gotten a deal!

...........

But an "old style" automotive bearing puller like this should work just fine too, right? I'd have to jig up the shaft but I don't see that being a problem.

Price on the puller has gone up at HF. I got mine on sale. Regular price back then was $50. You'd probably see it on sale for $40 at some point now.

The automotive bearing puller you refer to wouldn't be recommended for the ShopSmith bearings. When removing and installing the bearings, all the pushing and pulling really needs to be done on the inner race, directly above the shaft surface, as shown in the third photo down here. Pulling by the outer race can damage the roller bearings. I don't believe you'll be able to contact the inner race with the one you showed.

There are various setups to remove the bearings that other members can advise you on. If you twist SDSSmith's arm, he may just post a photo or two of the previously unseen homemade bearing press he made out of the finest domestic materials available.

mickyd wrote: The automotive bearing puller you refer to wouldn't be recommended for the ShopSmith bearings. When removing and installing the bearings, all the pushing and pulling really needs to be done on the inner race, directly above the shaft surface, as shown in the third photo down here. Pulling by the outer race can damage the roller bearings. I don't believe you'll be able to contact the inner race with the one you showed.

There are various setups to remove the bearings that other members can advise you on. If you twist SDSSmith's arm, he may just post a photo or two of the previously unseen homemade bearing press he made out of the finest domestic materials available.

Ahhhhh. I didn't think about where the pressure would be applied on the bearing. Thanks, Mike. But if I'm removing old bearings that I don't plan on reusing, does it matter how they are removed (with a puller)? Still, I would need a rig like yours for installing the new bearings. I wonder if I can rent one at an auto parts store.