1956 Mark V restoration

beeg · Post by **beeg** » Mon Feb 28, 2011 8:28 pm

russsaw wrote:Here's a few pictures of my electrolysis setup.

I HOPE your KNOT using galvanized greenfield in that bath. Use ONLY steel, so ya don't get HARMFUL CHEMICALS released.

russsaw · Post by **russsaw** » Mon Feb 28, 2011 9:07 pm

as far as I know I have only used been using steel, but I have to ask what is galvanized greenfield?

beeg · Post by **beeg** » Mon Feb 28, 2011 10:05 pm

IF I have it right. Greenfield is the flexible metal conduit used to protect electric wires.

http://www.flex-tubes.com/greenfield-flexible-conduit.html

JPG · Post by **JPG** » Tue Mar 01, 2011 1:35 am

The tubes(or any thing else) need polishing after electrolysis. There will be a thin black oxide on them.

Notice the 'action' is only on the side of the saw blade facing the 'anode' which does indeed appear to be either galvanized or plated armored (BX) electrical cable. Deeper water and side to side facing of the electrodes would work better since the reaction is essentially 'line of sight' across the electrolyte.

russsaw · Post by **russsaw** » Tue Mar 01, 2011 12:21 pm

Thanks for the info. That pic was from my initial electrolysis setup. I have become much more sophisticated since.

as far as polishing goes. I have been mainly just sanding the tubes with a fine grit wet/dry paper. but there's still a bunch of carbon there. Would further electrolysis eventually remove this too. it does still bubble when I put the tubes back in.

what are the best polishing compounds? I have my joiner in the electrolysis back right now. It was covered in rust. I didn't take it apart, just put if right in there overnight. running about 4 amps. who thinks I should I dissemble it completely? got to check the mailbox today to see if my new bearings have arrived.

JPG · Post by **JPG** » Tue Mar 01, 2011 12:54 pm

[quote="russsaw"]Thanks for the info. That pic was from my initial electrolysis setup. I have become much more sophisticated since. ]
I do not think there is any 'carbon' there. It is more likely black oxide. Once you get the red rust off, that is the one instance where I recommend naval jelly. It will remove the blackoxide very quickly with a minimum of 'rubbing' with a fine abrasive pad. It does not need to be on the part thick enough nor long enough to eat away a significant amount of 'good iron'. Wear rubber gloves(it IS acid!). Polishing should then be more easily accomplished(It will rust very quickly at that point)(wax immediately!)

Re the jointer: Personally I would break it down, but that is 'your' decision!

russsaw · Post by **russsaw** » Wed Mar 02, 2011 2:44 am

yeah I am have decided to break down most everything. I took the legs apart this evening. one of them is soaking in the electrolysis bucket now.

I am gonna want to strip a lot of the aluminum and repaint. The legs need to be stripped and repainted too. I bought some rust-oleum rust reformer and I think I am gonna use it as a primer. I have a couple of cans of shopsmith green paint from the website too. any tips? I was worried about putting on too much paint and covering screw threading.

I am gonna search the forum for previous advice. links would be appreciated. thanks

russsaw · Post by **russsaw** » Wed Mar 02, 2011 12:48 pm

Well scratch that. I read that rust-oleum rust reformer is only good for spray parts that have rust on them. since I am removing all the rust with the electrolysis I will have no rust to spray (hopefully).

I read that I should just a self etching primer instead. back to the store again. don't care much for going to the store

ddvann79 · Post by **ddvann79** » Wed Mar 02, 2011 12:56 pm

Russ,

Mike's restoration thread covers paint, as well as mine.

You are correct not to use the rust converter. It has oil in it that bonds with the rust. If you don't have rust, you just end up with oily metal - not too good as a primer for paint.

Regarding the self etching primer: some people have had good luck with it and I have had mixed results. The Rustoleum Hammered products can be applied with or without primer. I have found that in situations where I used this primer under the finish coat, it actually chips more easily than if the paint was applied directly to the unfinished metal. I don't know if it has anything to do with the chemical composition of the Gold and Copper colors I used. Mike said he hasn't had any problems with the Verde Green and Silver. My inclination is to use the self etching primer to the insides of the castings for protection and not use it under the finish coat. I also found that to develop the hammered finish, it requires more of the finish paint than without the primer.

Use news paper and masking tape to fill in the larger holes in the casting. I didn't worry about the screw threads and just tapped out the excess paint for clean threads with a tap and die set. This generally cleans up the threads, which is a positive.

Oh, and practice developing the texture on a piece of cardboard before applying to the metal. It's a bit finicky. You have to apply so much paint that it almost runs. It will require a second coat to fill in pin holes left by the texture, which must also be heavy. Spray only left to right, relative to the can nozzle because it sprays a vertical ellipse shape, as opposed to a circle.

russsaw · Post by **russsaw** » Wed Mar 02, 2011 1:34 pm

great information. thank you.

I bought a can of the Shopsmith Gray (595706) and a can of the Teal (555572) from the Shopsmith website a while back. I am now thinking that's not gonna be enough paint. How many can you reckon?

I'll best that the Rustoleum Hammered paint is less expensive, but it probably won't math the two cans I already have.