Bandsaw Blade Tracking Adjustments Etc.

[Hobbyman2]

+1

[db5]

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I’m going through a 1977 bandsaw that I acquired 25 years ago at the Salvation Army. It was with a Mark VII. Both were in excellent condition and showed little use so I was probably the 2nd owner. I read the 20 page posting on Bandsaw Blade Tracking and saw on pg. 18 (pic 1) what look more like my bandsaw bearing adjusting screws than those on pg. 19 (pic 2). It’s possible that Shopsmith had changed the length of these over the years. I can’t see any reason for using longer screws. Comment?

[jsburger]

Probably to get full thread contact with the locking nuts. The top picture maybe has one thread engaged.

[db5]

Thanks. I probably should have posted a picture of mine. The screws extend to the surface of the locking nuts.

[jsburger]

But, apparently that is not always the case. Hence the change. JMO

[rpd]

The longer screws are more forgiving as to the size (width} of screwdriver that can be used.

[JPG]

Yes they do not need to fit into the nuts.

FWIW viewtopic.php?p=202895#p202895

[db5]

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This post has been invaluable because many of you who contributed explained not only the "what to do" but how things are interrelated. Finally I got this 77 bandsaw finely tuned. I'm posting some pics here that show something that is "intuitively obvious" to many but not to all of us. I discovered it is important to use a new blade or one verified to not have any issues. The first picture shows a 3/8" blade perfectly centered on the lower bearings. Turning the wheel it got off track (pic 2). Only by sheer bad luck was it centered on the 4.5" where it was slightly warped. Next is a 1/8" blade off center all the way around. Then a new Timperwolf 1/2" blade off center. Question - what do I do with that 3/8" blade with the 4.5" warped spot?

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[dusty]

P1140039.JPGThis post has been invaluable because many of you who contributed explained not only the "what to do" but how things are interrelated. Finally I got this 77 bandsaw finely tuned. I'm posting some pics here that show something that is "intuitively obvious" to many but not to all of us. I discovered it is important to use a new blade or one verified to not have any issues. The first picture shows a 3/8" blade perfectly centered on the lower bearings. Turning the wheel it got off track (pic 2). Only by sheer bad luck was it centered on the 4.5" where it was slightly warped. Next is a 1/8" blade off center all the way around. Then a new Timperwolf 1/2" blade off center. Question - what do I do with that 3/8" blade with the 4.5" warped spot?P1140040.JPGP1140041.JPGP1140042.JPG

I'm not sure what you are saying. Different blades (even good unwarped blades) track differently? If you pull back the cool blocks do the different blades still track the same?

[db5]

Yes they do. And thanks for mentioning pulling back the cool blocks; a must do before making any adjustments. Resetting them was the last step in finishing this. Why would good unwarped blades track off center?