Turning Spalted Birch
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Turning Spalted Birch
Anybody have any tips on turning spalted birch? I'm a novice turner to begin with and I'm trying to turn some bowls out of some logs that have been sitting for over a year. The blanks are not wet but some of the softer parts I can leave a mark with my fingernail, not too deep. I'm getting a lot of tear out on the end grain sections. How do I tell if it's just too soft for turning?
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- Birch bowl 1a.JPG (45.58 KiB) Viewed 1907 times
Paul B
If its that pretty don't be scared of turning it as long as it can be held safely in the lathe. On small items (i.e. pens, bottle stoppers) I use thin CA glue to stablize the punky parts. On bigger items I use Minwax wood hardener or old poly or varnish thinned 1:1 to make it thin enough to penetrate into the wood. I let it dry then stablize it. I don't try to turn punky wood while it is wet. Some also use a salad bowl finish to make it easier to turn.
My brother begged me to take some maple burl because it had a couple of soft spots ("it's your kind of wood"). I told him that the next time he thought wood was too punky for him it was probably too punky for me. I took a 3'x3'x6' stack of the junk expecting to maybe get 1 or 2 small box tops. I cut some the other night and even pulled the 1/16" scraps back out of the trash to veneer as a raised textured accent on top of a walnut box. Boy is he going to be sorry when I visit in June, but every square inch will have to be stablized.
I use dust collection and a mask to avoid any chance of breathing in the dust and spores that create the pretty lines. Some say not to worry, but I am not taking the chance with my lungs.
I added a little temptation to my post. The bowls are clockwise: bradford pear, cherry and spalted maple.
My brother begged me to take some maple burl because it had a couple of soft spots ("it's your kind of wood"). I told him that the next time he thought wood was too punky for him it was probably too punky for me. I took a 3'x3'x6' stack of the junk expecting to maybe get 1 or 2 small box tops. I cut some the other night and even pulled the 1/16" scraps back out of the trash to veneer as a raised textured accent on top of a walnut box. Boy is he going to be sorry when I visit in June, but every square inch will have to be stablized.
I use dust collection and a mask to avoid any chance of breathing in the dust and spores that create the pretty lines. Some say not to worry, but I am not taking the chance with my lungs.
I added a little temptation to my post. The bowls are clockwise: bradford pear, cherry and spalted maple.
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- BOWLS (Small).jpg (30.38 KiB) Viewed 1815 times
One thing I can suggest before you get too deeply into turning spalted wood is that you do some research regarding the hazards of spalted wood. The spalting is caused by fungus that may require some precautions while cutting, turning and sanding. Try a google search for something like "spalted wood hazard."
Art in Western Pennsylvania
- terrydowning
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I agree with the safety precautions and the stabilizing. Also keep in mind, you may have to stop and stabilize more than once. The hardeners only go so far without without a vacuum or pressure rig to really pull/push the stabilizer in.
On a pen making forum there's a guy that sells a stabilization product and service that others swear by. www.TurnTex.com His name is Curtis and he may have some suggestions or be able to professionally stabilize it for you. His contact info is on his site.
good luck on that spalted bowl, it should be a real beauty if it comes out.
On a pen making forum there's a guy that sells a stabilization product and service that others swear by. www.TurnTex.com His name is Curtis and he may have some suggestions or be able to professionally stabilize it for you. His contact info is on his site.
good luck on that spalted bowl, it should be a real beauty if it comes out.
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Terry
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Terry
Copy and paste the URLs into your browser if you want to see the photos.
1955 Shopsmith Mark 5 S/N 296860 Workshop and Tools
https://1drv.ms/i/s!AmpX5k8IhN7ahFCo9VvTDsCpoV_g
Public Photos of Projects
http://sdrv.ms/MaXNLX