Eccentric tailstock and fluting a turned leg
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Eccentric tailstock and fluting a turned leg
I am reproducing a Philco radio fluted leg. I have the leg turned and the flutes laid out. I have not used the eccentric feature before, but figure this is the perfect time to learn.
Questions
How to determine the proper eccentric offset?
Any one have a design for a holder for a router to use the tool rest support to hold a small trim router to cut flute?
My plan is to set stops on the way tubes for enter and exit positions and drag the carriage down the leg for perfect flutes. Way short on time so I am trying to shorten the learning curve.
5-31-2014
K.I.S.S. Jig
Short dowel size of tool post with hole in center
Flat scrap of plywood bolted to dowel with a couple of small beveled strips to lock router barrel in place
Non-slip material and a 4" hose clamp to hold it together
I cut flutes in 3 steps:
Right to left from off blank to maximum depth
Right to left from off blank to finish feathering out flute since I wasn't deep enough at start
Carriage locked, left to right from off blank swinging in an arc to meet maximum depth.
Now, having learned what the jig will do, I would start off of the blank on the left, swing into cut and slide down the length of the flute and feather out off of the blank. Time did not permit experimentation or screwing up a $20 dollar blank and starting over. I have a little more carving to do on the face of the blank and a little clean up before delivering the goods tomorrow.
Questions
How to determine the proper eccentric offset?
Any one have a design for a holder for a router to use the tool rest support to hold a small trim router to cut flute?
My plan is to set stops on the way tubes for enter and exit positions and drag the carriage down the leg for perfect flutes. Way short on time so I am trying to shorten the learning curve.
5-31-2014
K.I.S.S. Jig
Short dowel size of tool post with hole in center
Flat scrap of plywood bolted to dowel with a couple of small beveled strips to lock router barrel in place
Non-slip material and a 4" hose clamp to hold it together
I cut flutes in 3 steps:
Right to left from off blank to maximum depth
Right to left from off blank to finish feathering out flute since I wasn't deep enough at start
Carriage locked, left to right from off blank swinging in an arc to meet maximum depth.
Now, having learned what the jig will do, I would start off of the blank on the left, swing into cut and slide down the length of the flute and feather out off of the blank. Time did not permit experimentation or screwing up a $20 dollar blank and starting over. I have a little more carving to do on the face of the blank and a little clean up before delivering the goods tomorrow.
- Attachments
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- Tapered Leg.JPG (93.54 KiB) Viewed 5044 times
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- Original -Copy.JPG (92.7 KiB) Viewed 5039 times
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- Cutting Flute.JPG (107.04 KiB) Viewed 5046 times
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- Jig in Support Arm.JPG (90.79 KiB) Viewed 5046 times
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- Swinging into Flute on Deep Side.JPG (73.38 KiB) Viewed 5043 times
Last edited by scollins on Thu Mar 03, 2016 12:09 pm, edited 1 time in total.
- JPG
- Platinum Member
- Posts: 34642
- Joined: Wed Dec 10, 2008 7:42 pm
- Location: Lexington, Ky (TAMECAT territory)
scollins wrote:I am reproducing a Philco radio fluted leg. I have the leg turned and the flutes laid out. I have not used the eccentric feature before, but figure this is the perfect time to learn.
Questions
How to determine the proper eccentric offset?
Any one have a design for a holder for a router to use the tool rest support to hold a small trim router to cut flute?
My plan is to set stops on the way tubes for enter and exit positions and drag the carriage down the leg for perfect flutes. Way short on time so I am trying to shorten the learning curve.
You need a shaft index wheel to do that also.(IIUC)
I am confused re your status. If you have indeed turned the leg, did you not already use the tailstock offset to obtain the taper?
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Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
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Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
- rcplaneguy
- Platinum Member
- Posts: 549
- Joined: Mon Sep 23, 2013 6:33 pm
- Location: Chapel Hill, NC
I think it would work out better making a custom jig. I've done something like this with my plunge router, but not on a round leg. Here are two links of a series of videos:
http://youtu.be/dCsGWDHtR58
http://youtu.be/Op2ADOg00NA
http://youtu.be/dCsGWDHtR58
http://youtu.be/Op2ADOg00NA
John
Years ago I did a real Rube Goldberg; I no longer have this jig:
Router riding on a jig up and down the way-tubes:
http://www.shopsmith.net/forums/attachm ... 1225671909
Old sanding disk used as an Indexing guide:
http://www.shopsmith.net/forums/attachm ... 1225671946
But anyway, I'm searching for another post where one Member did an ingenious mount of a Trim Router on the lathe tool-post. Haven't found it yet....
Router riding on a jig up and down the way-tubes:
http://www.shopsmith.net/forums/attachm ... 1225671909
Old sanding disk used as an Indexing guide:
http://www.shopsmith.net/forums/attachm ... 1225671946
But anyway, I'm searching for another post where one Member did an ingenious mount of a Trim Router on the lathe tool-post. Haven't found it yet....
Chris
- JPG
- Platinum Member
- Posts: 34642
- Joined: Wed Dec 10, 2008 7:42 pm
- Location: Lexington, Ky (TAMECAT territory)
That is one mean looking router.
[ATTACH]25209[/ATTACH]
[ATTACH]25209[/ATTACH]
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- mean looking router.jpg (167.68 KiB) Viewed 5154 times
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Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
╟JPG ╢
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Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
Don't know if this will help, but may give you some ideas.
5 part series on making a twisted candle holder on a shopsmith.
https://www.youtube.com/user/kd6vpe/videos
5 part series on making a twisted candle holder on a shopsmith.
https://www.youtube.com/user/kd6vpe/videos
Bob
Don't try to make sense out of nonsense!
Don't try to make sense out of nonsense!
- JPG
- Platinum Member
- Posts: 34642
- Joined: Wed Dec 10, 2008 7:42 pm
- Location: Lexington, Ky (TAMECAT territory)
OK, so I will assume the eccentric is relevant because you want to use it to make the leg taper parallel to the ways horizontally. Unfortunately, that also moves the leg out of parallel vertically albeit much less.scollins wrote:Hey JPG,
You saw my mahogany dining table, so this is a cakewalk. I just need to get the set up straight in my head so I don't mess up an already nice turning. Flutes are marked just need to cut.
I would make a jig that allows router movement parallel to the leg taper. I think that would be done by having the 'slide' above the leg. Then matching the taper becomes a depth of cut relationship.
Although similar things have been done by moving the carriage I be a bit leery of that(things can get sloppy too easily and 'secretly').
Either the way or bench tubes can provide vertical support(or floor also).
Should be obvious the the 'slide' for the router will not be horizontal, but sloped to match the taper.
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Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
╟JPG ╢
╚═══╝
Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
Just checked out the flute set up and do not need to offset the leg. The taper is 3/32nd less at the small end compared to the larger end and should work perfectly off of the tool rest support arm. I'll have vertical and horizontal adjustment and only need to come up with a flat plate to anchor the router to and a post to secure the plate to the support arm. The flutes start deep and fade to swallow. Just have to wait till Saturday to do it.
Thanks for shaking out the cobwebs. I'll try to remember to post pics for those that still need a visual.
Thanks for shaking out the cobwebs. I'll try to remember to post pics for those that still need a visual.