Need some ideas/help.

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skou
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Post by skou »

Gene, if you make them, be sure to put a ferrule on the file end of the handle. A 1/2 inch ring of 1/2 or 3/4 copper pipe will work just fine, and keep that end from splitting out.

If it was me, I'd go to HF and get the cheap set of lathe chisels, though. They're good enough to learn on, and you can replace them with good ones when you get bitten by the "turning bug." (And yes, you'll get bitten.)

steve
10 ER, stripped down.
Basic 10ER, Parts machine. Will be a semi-dedicated drill-press machine.
10 ER, a "survivor" of the trailer fire, in the back yard, needing restoration. Has a Mk5 headrest. Finally, stripped down.
Numerous parts, for Model 10 stuff. Except for lower saw guard, A and B adapters, I've got it.

Looking for one more, or some 9 inch extension table raisers.
beatnik
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Post by beatnik »

Yeah, HF has a set on sale and with a 20% coupon they'd be real cheap to start with. One decent review there. Luckily my machine came with tools when I start out learning.

http://www.harborfreight.com/8-piece-wo ... -9915.html

You could practice glue ups of different woods for some cool designs.
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STB
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My version fo a file handle

Post by STB »

Gene Howe wrote:
What do you all think? Any ideas? Am I on the right track or should I just buy handles?

Thanks,
For what it's worth this is my version of a file handle.

First thing select a spring and cut a coil or two off the spring.
[ATTACH]25692[/ATTACH]

Search the scrap bin for a piece that will make an appropriate handle. Mark the center of one end. Find a drill bit about the diamiter halfway up the file tang. Drill a hole down the center of the stock.
[ATTACH]25693[/ATTACH]

Next use the SS disk sander to shape the handle to desired shape.
[ATTACH]25694[/ATTACH]

Cut a cross kif the depth of the drilled hole and place the spring coils on the end of the handle.[ATTACH]25695[/ATTACH]

Remove the waist finish or not and commence fileing in comfort.

[ATTACH]25696[/ATTACH]
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Glenn
I create problem solving challenges and opportunities for design modification, not mistakes.

SS 520 born 04/16/03, Power Station mounted Band saw , Scroll saw, Jointer, Belt sander, Overarm router, dedicated Mark V drill press, SS Maxi-clamp system, Shopsmith woodworking bench
Gene Howe
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Post by Gene Howe »

That looks like a plan. Thanks Glenn!
Gene

'The true soldier fights not because he hates what is in front of him, but because he loves what is behind him.' G. K. Chesterton
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JPG
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Post by JPG »

Swing away/around vise???:confused::cool:
╔═══╗
╟JPG ╢
╚═══╝

Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10
E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
bffulgham
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Post by bffulgham »

JPG40504 wrote:Swing away/around vise???:confused::cool:
I believe it is a Solid Box, Post or Leg Vise.
Bud F.
1998 Mark V 510 bought used 2006, Jointer, 2 Bandsaws, ca 1960 Yuba SawSmith RAS
Projects and "stuff": http://www.bfulgham.com/JAlbum/Woodworking_Index/
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JPG
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Post by JPG »

bffulgham wrote:I believe it is a Solid Box, Post or Leg Vise.
Well that explains 'that'.:)

New thing learned fer today; done!

Thanks!!!:cool:
╔═══╗
╟JPG ╢
╚═══╝

Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10
E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
scollins
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Post by scollins »

Copper pipe or brass tubes make good ferrules. I have used brass pen tubes on some small projects. If you don't have a lathe set up, you could rig a tool rest for a drop press. If tang is round just drill a hole and epoxy in. Another option is to split a dowel in half and shape a cavity for the tang then drive the shaft and dowel into the handle. I have tried heating the tang and driving it in but didn't like that method.
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