Segmented Project Planner software

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reible
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Location: Aurora, IL

Segmented Project Planner software

Post by reible »

Hi.

Have you heard of this product or even better do you use this product?

Maybe if you do a visit to this site we can all get on the same page:

http://www.segmentedturning.com/software.htm

My particular interest is the Ring Master Support area.

I'm thinking of giving a try but it would be yet another thing to learn about and depending on the learning curve do really want to go there.

Up coming project is learning to make two hollow form such that the two parts can come together and form a sphere. Since I have a ring master I thought this might be a good starting point. Want to get some use out of it while I can.

Anyone?

Ed
donalexander
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Post by donalexander »

Hi Ed,

There actually two programs out there that I've been looking at. Woodturner Pro has the other program. I own neither but i've looked at both and they each seem to have their own strengths and weaknesses. Of the two I liked the looks of the project planner best. My only advice is to look hard at how well each of them does the "focus ring" for the kind of segmented turning you want to do.

I'd also suggest reading Malcolm Tibbet's book on segmented turning before buying the software. I really liked *some* of what he did and I really couldn't see where software would be more helpful than a keen imagination and some large sheets of graph paper. As the software improves, I expect it'll do more with the focus ring...but that's just a guess.

Finally, I really think the "wedgies" that segeasy (http://www.segeasy.com) sell along with a sled you build will do more than the software...but that's just my opinion. I'm not affiliated with any of the products mentioned.

And remember, this advice is worth at least half of what you paid for it! <g>

Don
Don

Mark V (bought new, now sold), Model 520 (1989 510 upgraded)
Bandsaw, Jointer, and Planer
1951 Magna Engineering 10ER (restored for lathe use and sold)
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skou
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Post by skou »

Don, this advice may be worth TWICE what I paid.:D

THANKS!

steve
10 ER, stripped down.
Basic 10ER, Parts machine. Will be a semi-dedicated drill-press machine.
10 ER, a "survivor" of the trailer fire, in the back yard, needing restoration. Has a Mk5 headrest. Finally, stripped down.
Numerous parts, for Model 10 stuff. Except for lower saw guard, A and B adapters, I've got it.

Looking for one more, or some 9 inch extension table raisers.
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wa2crk
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Post by wa2crk »

Hi Guys.
I have been interested in doing some segmented turning for a while and I do have the program from Bill Kandler. One critique that I have is that in my opinion is that he sometimes tries to make some of the rings too narrow for a beginner. Also a segmented project does not have to consist entirely of segments. Sometimes one segmented ring will enhance a project.

[ATTACH]27018[/ATTACH]

As soon as I can resize some photos I will post some pix of a jig that I made for cutting segments

As Shopsmith owners we have the most perfect tool for cutting and truing segments.
Assemble each ring as two half rings and then true up each half circle to obtain a perfect joint. The sanding disc or the belt sander work well for this operation
Bill V
Attachments
bowl with ring one.jpg
bowl with ring one.jpg (70.29 KiB) Viewed 5991 times
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idcook
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Post by idcook »

A very exciting topic.

I look forward to everything anyone has to offer to this discussion. Mostly because segmented turning strikes me as the shortest route to producing eye-popping results.

Of course this is being said by a guy who hasn’t turned anything except over in his sleep. :o

Anyway… please show and tell me more.
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jbooher
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Post by jbooher »

I have had the segmenent turning for several years and find it very helpful. It is true that width of some rings may need adjusting. The program graphics will show which ones to adjust. I always fine tune my segmented pieces. The cutting sheet is very helpful.

For those interested in trying segmented turning you need to look at Bill Bennett's Segeasy. It can be found at http://Segeasy.com. The sled is easy to make and you can use a 60/30 triangle to make perfect rings. This will make a twelve segment ring and will be dead on. Bill sales several templates for different number of segments. He has four video on using and making the sled. Worth a look!
masonsailor2
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Easy method for segmented bowls

Post by masonsailor2 »

There are many ways to do segmented bowls. I have been turning them for years and really enjoy the concept and the almost limitless way you can vary the designs. I personally just keep it very simple. I use a Makita miter saw to cut the segments. I have a sled I built years ago but find it is slower than just using the chop saw. As far as determining the diameter of the rings and length of each segment I just determine the diameter of the largest ring in the project and then depending on the intended curve of the bowl vary the size of each subsequent ring by reducing the segments by increments of 1/16, 1/8, or 1/4 inch. As far as joining the segments I again keep it very simple. Watch this YouTube video which explains it very well. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MZuJ74jV4GI . As far as flattening the rings I built a jig that uses the Shopsmith disc sander which works very well and incorporates my dust collection system and produces rings that mic out with just a few thousands variance. If you want I can post a few pictures of the jig.
Paul
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wa2crk
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Post by wa2crk »

I'm Baaack
This may not be the slickest dissertation ever on this site but I will try to convey what mistakes I made during my learning curve.
First thing that you must do is build a sled. The sled can have a fixed angle, preferred by many folks, or you can build an adjustable one like I did.

[ATTACH]27020[/ATTACH]

This one is my first but has since been modified by adding a bolt to the rear fence that is adjusted to provide a stop when the moveable fence is at 90 deg to the blade. Just remember that ALL of the angle settings MUST be made with reference to the body of the blade. There is no requirement that the front and rear fences be exactly 90 deg to the blade. All cut angles are referenced from the moveable fence to the blade. The front and rear fences only serve to hold the sled body together Unless your fence is super accurate there will be errors. The stop bolt is set by making cuts across a scrap board and making sure that the cut is square and then lock down the bolt. After this is done you can mark the angles on the arc.

My preferred measurement for the angle setting is an Igaging 10" blade protractor. These instruments have an accuracy of .1 degree

To set the fence for the first cut I used a piece of scrap cut to 15 deg on the miter saw. After this first cut the angle of the fence will need to be tweaked.
For a twelve segment ring the cuts are at 15 deg for an included angle of 30 deg. The segments have to be the same length so accurate cutting is extremely important. When 6 segments are glued into a half circle the open side should lie on a flat surface with no gaps.
The length of a segment is the longest side between the two angle cuts and the width is the distance from the length to the inner parallel edge. The thickness is the thickness of the stock being cut.
Using a 12 segment ring 6" diameter as an example the length of each segment can be determined by the formula 6(3.14)/12 or about 1.57" and the angle of the cuts will be 180/12 = 15 deg
The thickness is the thickness of the stock being cut.


[ATTACH]27021[/ATTACH]

Looking at the above picture shows what happens when the angles are off. In the ring on the left the angle is too large ( over 15 deg) on the right the angle is too small (less than 15 deg)

The thickness is the thickness of the stock being cut.
Using a 12 segment ring 6" diameter as an example the length of each segment can be determined by the formula 6(3.14)/12 or about 1.57" and the angle of the cuts will be 180/12 = 15 deg.


More later.
Bill V
Attachments
first sled.jpg
first sled.jpg (112.58 KiB) Viewed 5918 times
left angle too large  right too small.jpg
left angle too large right too small.jpg (106.74 KiB) Viewed 5918 times
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