horizontal mortising
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Re: horizontal mortising
Nice work!
Re: horizontal mortising
I have never understood the reason to make square ends to a mortise. It is a lot easier, and probably more accurate, to round the ends of tenon than squaring ends of a mortise.
If done by hand, using a mortise chisel they are easier to make square. Watch Roy Underhill make them it is surprising how quickly they can be done. That is how the tradition was started. But if you are using power round is far easier
If done by hand, using a mortise chisel they are easier to make square. Watch Roy Underhill make them it is surprising how quickly they can be done. That is how the tradition was started. But if you are using power round is far easier
Re: horizontal mortising
This was a vertical mortising jig I built that might give you some ideas:
https://www.shopsmith.com/ss_forum/gene ... 15928.html
Ed
https://www.shopsmith.com/ss_forum/gene ... 15928.html
Ed
{Knight of the Shopsmith} [Hero's don't wear capes, they wear dog tags]
Re: horizontal mortising
To user "sehast"
I am interested in your "horizontal" router setup
How did you create this?
I want to make raised panel cabinet doors for our kitchen. The horizontal router tables available on sale seem cheezy and I've got a Shopsmith 510.
I am interested in your "horizontal" router setup
How did you create this?
I want to make raised panel cabinet doors for our kitchen. The horizontal router tables available on sale seem cheezy and I've got a Shopsmith 510.
Re: horizontal mortising
I see you are relatively new to the forum so, user tip - If you quote sehast in your new post he will see a notification when he is logged in that he has been quoted. This may help draw his attention to your query.
It seems to me that to use a horizontal router setup for panel raising you'd want a so-called "vertical" raised panel bit. I find that amusing, but IIWM I'd stay away unless I had a great horizontal router setup that ran in the recommended speed range of the bit. Shopsmith used to make a router mount that would work for that, but they are hard to come by. IMO a decent under table router setup with a regular bit is a good way to get this done. There are a lot of ways to make raised panels.
I think I understand most of this setup from the pics, but the role of the main table is not clear to me. (And based on that perhaps I'm wrong about understanding the rest. ) I'm looking to set something up for hinge and latch mortises on regular doors for an imminent project and gathering intel for M7 Vs router templates.sehast wrote: ↑Tue Nov 07, 2017 12:49 pm I don't want to hijack your thread but I think this is very related. After I upgraded to double tilt earlier this year I built a horizontal router table that uses an extension table base. I turn the main table around like you would for under the table routing and set it at 90 degrees. Here are some pics.
- David
Re: horizontal mortising
I have never done routing/shaping on my Mark V (always used a separate router table), so I am no expert on this specific to the Shopsmith setup. However, in looking at the pics from sehast before, I would have to think that to do raised panels on it you would want the panel/workpiece to be held vertical against the Mark V main table (sehast's 1st pic). If you intend to lay the workpiece down flat on the added table that sehast showed then you would need some kind of special raised panel bit...which I haven't seen before but again I am not an expert on shaper cutters, etc. Personally, I still prefer doing my routing on a separate router table, but that is just my preference. I know many use their Mark V for this instead.
FYI...I don't think sehast has been active on the forum recently so it may be a while before he answers any questions regarding his setup.
FYI...I don't think sehast has been active on the forum recently so it may be a while before he answers any questions regarding his setup.
RF Guy
Mark V 520 (Bought New '98) | 4" jointer | 6" beltsander | 12" planer | bandsaw | router table | speed reducer | univ. tool rest
Porter Cable 12" Compound Miter Saw | Rikon 8" Low Speed Bench Grinder w/CBN wheels | Jessem Clear-Cut TS™ Stock Guides
Festool (Emerald): DF 500 Q | RO 150 FEQ | OF 1400 EQ | TS 55 REQ | CT 26 E
DC3300 | Shopvac w/ClearVue CV06 Mini Cyclone | JDS AirTech 2000 | Sundstrom PAPR | Dylos DC1100 Pro particulate monitor
Mark V 520 (Bought New '98) | 4" jointer | 6" beltsander | 12" planer | bandsaw | router table | speed reducer | univ. tool rest
Porter Cable 12" Compound Miter Saw | Rikon 8" Low Speed Bench Grinder w/CBN wheels | Jessem Clear-Cut TS™ Stock Guides
Festool (Emerald): DF 500 Q | RO 150 FEQ | OF 1400 EQ | TS 55 REQ | CT 26 E
DC3300 | Shopvac w/ClearVue CV06 Mini Cyclone | JDS AirTech 2000 | Sundstrom PAPR | Dylos DC1100 Pro particulate monitor
Re: horizontal mortising
I don't know much more to tell you other than what is in the post. Simply laminated two 3/4" plywood panels and covered the top with some vinyl. I used it to make some raised panel doors about a year ago and it worked great. I kept the feed rate fairly low and took light cuts but 10,000 RPM worked well with the bits from MLCS.To user "sehast"
I am interested in your "horizontal" router setup
How did you create this?
I want to make raised panel cabinet doors for our kitchen. The horizontal router tables available on sale seem cheezy and I've got a Shopsmith 510."
I have found that turning the main table vertical or even having it mounted is not necessary and even a distraction since the added table has a fence. Don't know what I was thinking on that but it was probably thought to be used as a fence before I discovered it was easier to just put a fence on the added table. If I had it to do over again I would mount the added table I built on the main table instead of an extension table base. The main table is much easier to adjust in height and the added table can be easily mounted on it so it engages the router bit in a similar fashion.