Replacing jointer knives

[chiroindixon]

I attempted to scan the sketch from Doug here...but got rejected as the image file was too big.

Simple concept, not unlike Bob's. Magnets (preferably rare earth) are emplaced into a piece of wood (planed flat and width of knives) or MDO right at the edge. Recess the magnets slightly so they won't nick your sharpened blades.

"Jig" now laid on out feed table allowing magnets to "grab" and hold the blades in line wihile you fiddle with the set screws.

Hope this helps, Dusty. I think aligning jointer and planer knives is a major PITA.

I'll work to email you the image if I can figure out how. This old soldier ain't a computer geek.

Doc

[hfmann]

Hey Doc,

I attempted to scan the sketch from Doug here...but got rejected as the image file was too big.

I'd be glad to resize or otherwise manipulate the image and post it here if you'll email it to me.

Take care,
Hal

[hfmann]

Doc provided these images to supplement his earlier instructions.
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Thanks Doc,
Hal

[rcoder]

That is the drawing I saw some time ago but I glued the magnets on top and substituted glass. I figured glass would always be flat. I find the marks on the glass easier to line up on the knives and table.


Bob

[dusty]

Thanks Guys. I really appreciate the efforts. This will do the trick once I find the magnets I intend to use. The rest of the design will vary according to their dimensions.

This will certainly take some of the pain out of this procedure; I might even be able to do this with SWMBO in the shop.

_:) __________________
Making Sawdust Safely

[hfmann]

I'm really struggling with this whole process. I tried the metal ruler technique from the SS manual. After the very first attempt I couldn't get the knives to "grab" the metal edge of the ruler at all.

Then I tried using a flat wood stick as some in the woodnet forum swear by. The marks on the stick show the precise movement caused by the knife movement. Then supposedly you use that stick with the marks to adjust all the knives.

Before the knife grabs the stick, mark the very edge of the outfeed table on the stick.
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Then after rotating the knife you mark the position of the stick. The movement should be 1/8" or less.
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Seems like such a great idea, but I just couldn't get any repeatability at all. Any ideas?

I'm liking the magnet on glass technique too but just don't quite understand it. The magnets hold the knives exactly level with the outfeed table. But then how do you adjust the leveling screws to the right height?

Thanks,
Hal

[Bruce]

But then how do you adjust the leveling screws to the right height?

Thanks,
Hal

That's a good question. Another one is what keeps the jig level with the outfeed table. Do you clamp it somehow? Or do you start with the blades low and raise the leveling screws until the board/glass contacts the outfeed table?

Bruce

[ericolson]

For years I struggled with the steel straightedge and wooden straightedge methods. I'd always end up frustrated. I can't remember where I found my Jointer Pal, but I swear by the thing whenever I've got to swap out jointer knives. Like I said earlier, not a tool I use often, but when I need it, I need it!!

[hfmann]

my Jointer Pal, but I swear by the thing whenever I've got to swap out jointer knives.

Thanks Eric.

I see the local woodcraft store has a device that looks just like the Jointer Pal. (Magna Set Jointer Jig) I'm going to go look at it.

Something I don't understand though on the theory of where the knives should actually be set. - Logically doesn't it seem that the knife should be set to take absolutely no cut if the outfeed and infeed tables are dead level with each other? My SS jointer manual calls for the knive to actually top out just above the outfeed table during the rotation. Just enough to pull a metal ruler forward no more than 1/8". So doesn't this mean that the knives are going to take a minor cut if both infeed and outfeed tables are level with each other.

These magnetic devices (jointer pal, etc.) seem to hold the knife level with the outfeed table which would take no cut when both tables are level.

Call me confused

Hal

[rcoder]

I simply weight the glass that is on the outfeed table. I suppose some tape would also work.

Bob