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Made some plywood blocks to get the lathe up to 47" to center line of the spindle and I have the universal tool rest mounted too. The PO did the hanging drawers.

larryhrockisland wrote:Made some plywood blocks to get the lathe up to 47" to center line of the spindle and I have the universal tool rest mounted too. The PO did the hanging drawers.

Do be careful when near the back side of that chuck!!!!!

JPG wrote:

larryhrockisland wrote:Made some plywood blocks to get the lathe up to 47" to center line of the spindle and I have the universal tool rest mounted too. The PO did the hanging drawers.

Do be careful when near the back side of that chuck!!!!!

Totally Agree! I did put acorn nuts on the ends so it wouldn't be the raw end of the bolt and I have thought about painting them red too. I do stay on the front side and only use this to finish the bottom of the bowl. This is the first one I've made and I'm open to safer suggestions. I do like that the bowl is totally captured by the donut chuck.

That universal tool rest looks good on a 10ER ... this is first time I’ve seen a pic of them mated up. Any issues mounting it?

As for the protruding bolts on your chuck, one option is to use threaded hex standoffs in between the chuck plates. You could leave them screwed on to the back chuck plate. Reasonably long standoffs (limited by your minimum workpiece length), plus maybe a couple of sets of front-plate screws in different lengths, should give you a good length-capacity range.

Yes, tell us how you mounted the universal rest. I have one still in the box. I leave my 10er in the garage so I can do some outdoor turning in the nice weather. The neighbors are amazed when the curlies fly! My main shop is in the basement.

I am guessing the 'center bolt' goes through the table height crank tapped hole in the top of the carriage.


But then what is that chuck of wood under the carriage for????

Perhaps the other holes in the round part are used?

ChrisNeilan wrote:Yes, tell us how you mounted the universal rest. I have one still in the box. I leave my 10er in the garage so I can do some outdoor turning in the nice weather. The neighbors are amazed when the curlies fly! My main shop is in the basement.

Depends on which 10 you have. I have 2 10ER's, see my sig,they have two different carriages. One needed a spacer and one didn't. I bought a Robust 9"tool rest with 1" shaft to allow more height adjustment. The stock SS tool rest is just barely below centerline. The specialty toolrests that came with my UTR package will go 5/16" below centerline. I don't know how well that works with the Easy Wood Tools And finally, A mock up of an extension for the tailstock that will let you turn spindles 8 to 10" longer with the UTR without needing another carriage(I think, depending on your tool rest. This is the 9" Robust shown. I know there are other threads about waytube extensions. With the speed changer mounted I have 27" between centers. this extension would allow 38". Headstock and UTR tight to the tailstock with full extension on the spindle and two different live centers. I also have a morse taper extension if needed.
Sorry for the long post, but I did get practice resizing pictures, attaching and placing them inline.
Cheers!

JPG wrote:I am guessing the 'center bolt' goes through the table height crank tapped hole in the top of the carriage.


But then what is that chuck of wood under the carriage for????

Perhaps the other holes in the round part are used?

The center bolt is a carriage bolt that nests in a recess in the base plate, it doesn't pass through the carriage. I probably could have used 2x spacer but needed something because there aren't enough threads otherwise. I'll double-check tomorrow and take a few more pics.

Thanks for the info!

Awesome job on the photo’s, Larry, thanks much!

So it looks like the tool-rest height is the only significant compatibility issue, and that’s only an issue when using the short articulated arm on the UTR. If you mount a longer aftermarket tool rest in place of the short arm, can still you reach the back side of bowls and such? It seems to me that rigidity should be at least as good in that configuration.