Sliding Tee Nuts / Studs
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Sliding Tee Nuts / Studs
I am looking at the sliding tee nuts and related hardware for attaching feather boards to my 520 table and fence. I see options to purchase the flat plate Tee Nuts, the same with a post, and a kit with washers and knobs.
I have two feather boards that came with an extension fence for the jointer. I want to convert them to use in the table slots and fence slots. I see no reason to duplicate a purchase just to buy the feather board kit for these purposes.
I currently have a 1 gallon ziplock bag filled with Rocker's t-bolt hardware and knobs. Shopsmith is proprietary with the Tee Nut, and quiet expensive at over $44 for the 555914 kit of 4. I realize I need the Tee Bolts, but has anyone here successfully added a non Shopsmith branded post to a tee nut? I'm just trying to save some cash, which will be used to purchase other Shopsmith accessories.
Thanks
I have two feather boards that came with an extension fence for the jointer. I want to convert them to use in the table slots and fence slots. I see no reason to duplicate a purchase just to buy the feather board kit for these purposes.
I currently have a 1 gallon ziplock bag filled with Rocker's t-bolt hardware and knobs. Shopsmith is proprietary with the Tee Nut, and quiet expensive at over $44 for the 555914 kit of 4. I realize I need the Tee Bolts, but has anyone here successfully added a non Shopsmith branded post to a tee nut? I'm just trying to save some cash, which will be used to purchase other Shopsmith accessories.
Thanks
Re: Sliding Tee Nuts / Studs
I haven't done it, but looking at the pictures on the Shopsmith website, if you wanted to convert a Shopsmith t-nut to a t-bolt all you would need to do would be to cut a length of threaded rod of the appropriate diameter/thread count for the center hole of the t-nut (3/8-16) or the end holes of the t-nut (1/4-20) or cut the head off of an appropriately sized machine screw or bolt. Add a little Loctite or other thread locker and the post is permanent.
Whether that will match up with your Rockler hardware bag depends on that hardware being size either 3/8-16 or 1/4-20. If it isn't, you could probably drill out the existing holes in the Shopsmith t-nuts to the proper diameter you need and tap the new hole for whatever thread count you need, assuming you have a tap and die set.
Good luck!
Whether that will match up with your Rockler hardware bag depends on that hardware being size either 3/8-16 or 1/4-20. If it isn't, you could probably drill out the existing holes in the Shopsmith t-nuts to the proper diameter you need and tap the new hole for whatever thread count you need, assuming you have a tap and die set.
Good luck!
Gale's Law: The bigger the woodworking project, the less the mistakes show in any photo taken far enough away to show the entire project!
Re: Sliding Tee Nuts / Studs
Thanks for your information. I will check the knobs in the bag. The threaded rod and locktite is a great idea I had not considered.
Thanks,
Thanks,
Jerry
Harrison, AR
Shopsmith Mk V 520
SPT's: jointer, band saw
Harrison, AR
Shopsmith Mk V 520
SPT's: jointer, band saw
Re: Sliding Tee Nuts / Studs
By the way, if the center hole isn’t tapped, and right now I can’t recall, you can always tap it yourself.
Gale's Law: The bigger the woodworking project, the less the mistakes show in any photo taken far enough away to show the entire project!
- chapmanruss
- Platinum Member
- Posts: 3488
- Joined: Tue Aug 26, 2014 8:16 pm
- Location: near Portland, Oregon
Re: Sliding Tee Nuts / Studs
The center hole on all of my "T" nuts came tapped and are 3/8.
Russ
Mark V completely upgraded to Mark 7
Mark V 520
All SPT's & 2 Power Stations
Model 10ER S/N R64000 first one I restored on bench w/ metal ends & retractable casters.
Has Speed Changer, 4E Jointer, Jig Saw with lamp, a complete set of original accessories & much more.
Model 10E's S/N's 1076 & 1077 oldest ones I have restored. Mark 2 S/N 85959 restored. Others to be restored.
Mark V completely upgraded to Mark 7
Mark V 520
All SPT's & 2 Power Stations
Model 10ER S/N R64000 first one I restored on bench w/ metal ends & retractable casters.
Has Speed Changer, 4E Jointer, Jig Saw with lamp, a complete set of original accessories & much more.
Model 10E's S/N's 1076 & 1077 oldest ones I have restored. Mark 2 S/N 85959 restored. Others to be restored.
Re: Sliding Tee Nuts / Studs
The Tee Bolts won't work well for this anyway. The threaded stud is 5/16 and won't fit the feather board slot without modifying something. I have a Rip Fence Featherboard (555783) that includes two of these Tee Bolts and I tried that once, the studs did not fit the slots in the featherboard. The smaller holes in a Tee Nut are 1/4 and should work fine with a stud or bolt.
Re: Sliding Tee Nuts / Studs
The last two posts are SPAM. These spamers are getting cute posting about something on topic to the forum and then including their SPAM link in the post. Relevant content is not acceptable if it contains SPAM links. The message should be deleted and the OP should be removed. My guess is the two previous posters are the same person.
The same thing happened on the "Where to buy wood" thread. The OP made a bogus post with a link to a non on topic web site. The moderator deleted the link but left the post since it was "on topic". Well guess what, the OP edited his original post and re-added the bogus link. The thread should be deleted and the poster deleted also.
Just my opinion of course.
The same thing happened on the "Where to buy wood" thread. The OP made a bogus post with a link to a non on topic web site. The moderator deleted the link but left the post since it was "on topic". Well guess what, the OP edited his original post and re-added the bogus link. The thread should be deleted and the poster deleted also.
Just my opinion of course.
John & Mary Burger
Eagle's Lair Woodshop
Hooper, UT
Eagle's Lair Woodshop
Hooper, UT
- JPG
- Platinum Member
- Posts: 34642
- Joined: Wed Dec 10, 2008 7:42 pm
- Location: Lexington, Ky (TAMECAT territory)
Re: Sliding Tee Nuts / Studs
And then what happened?
╔═══╗
╟JPG ╢
╚═══╝
Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
╟JPG ╢
╚═══╝
Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
Re: Sliding Tee Nuts / Studs
The original post was deleted.JPG wrote:And then what happened?
John & Mary Burger
Eagle's Lair Woodshop
Hooper, UT
Eagle's Lair Woodshop
Hooper, UT
Re: Sliding Tee Nuts / Studs
Cute or lazy? Can't believe they started plagiarizing older posts from the forum. Of course, maybe you guys have seen all of this before, but it is new to me...jsburger wrote:The last two posts are SPAM. These spamers are getting cute posting about something on topic to the forum and then including their SPAM link in the post. Relevant content is not acceptable if it contains SPAM links. The message should be deleted and the OP should be removed. My guess is the two previous posters are the same person.
The same thing happened on the "Where to buy wood" thread. The OP made a bogus post with a link to a non on topic web site. The moderator deleted the link but left the post since it was "on topic". Well guess what, the OP edited his original post and re-added the bogus link. The thread should be deleted and the poster deleted also.
Just my opinion of course.
RF Guy
Mark V 520 (Bought New '98) | 4" jointer | 6" beltsander | 12" planer | bandsaw | router table | speed reducer | univ. tool rest
Porter Cable 12" Compound Miter Saw | Rikon 8" Low Speed Bench Grinder w/CBN wheels | Jessem Clear-Cut TS™ Stock Guides
Festool (Emerald): DF 500 Q | RO 150 FEQ | OF 1400 EQ | TS 55 REQ | CT 26 E
DC3300 | Shopvac w/ClearVue CV06 Mini Cyclone | JDS AirTech 2000 | Sundstrom PAPR | Dylos DC1100 Pro particulate monitor
Mark V 520 (Bought New '98) | 4" jointer | 6" beltsander | 12" planer | bandsaw | router table | speed reducer | univ. tool rest
Porter Cable 12" Compound Miter Saw | Rikon 8" Low Speed Bench Grinder w/CBN wheels | Jessem Clear-Cut TS™ Stock Guides
Festool (Emerald): DF 500 Q | RO 150 FEQ | OF 1400 EQ | TS 55 REQ | CT 26 E
DC3300 | Shopvac w/ClearVue CV06 Mini Cyclone | JDS AirTech 2000 | Sundstrom PAPR | Dylos DC1100 Pro particulate monitor