1. The suggestion for making the table from four parts seems to be a GOOD suggestion. Two middle end pieces with double bevels.
2. WIDER - LONGER single thickness table, to protect the head stock and a wider table to guide the stock.
3. Rails under table to stiffen the single thickness table top. Rails should fit close to the supporting case to aid in aligning the table and throttling the dust collection air flow.
4. Shopsmith direct drive of the sanding cylinder between Headstock and Lathe Tailstock. Pillow blocks / pulley option for a standalone version with an external electrical motor. (Same design, add cleats for pillow blocks).
5. Removable top, no piano hinge. Remove it or drop it in place and hold w/ latches or rare earth magnets on at least 4 leveling bolts into the support case.
6. Add the dust rails to the top not the case. Strengthen the top, with the rails, outside the case and dust rails inside the case.
7. Four step setup on SS: 1.....Put case on Way Tubes. 2: Put Sanding Cylinder between Headstock and lathe tail stock. 3. Put top on, over headstock, over sanding cylinder, over tail stock. 4. Tighten case on Way Tubes and hook up input side of leaf blower fot dust extraction.
Look Ma, no outside electrical motor, no pulleys, no link belt. and if you have SHOP SPACE, convert it to standalone. Caution: I think I saw a groove cut into the underside of the top for the belt/pulley on the 2 " SANDING CYLINDER.
Answers to Post #41: >>>
pkni wrote:My top is 3/4 MDF laminated on both sides with 1/8" PVC (i >>>think) coating on one side. The stuff used for cabinet backs in some >>>places.
GOOD Choice
>>>RE your top design: Why not simply use a piano hinge on one side? Or, as >>>someone suggested, use rare earth magnets and shim with metal shims.
>>>A two piece top will be a bear to get aligned with the drum, I would think.
Excellent suggestion: Could use Hanger bolts into case edge and Burrs on upper portion of the hanger bolts to provide about 1/2 inch of static adjustability and dynamic adjustability from the length of hanger bolt lengths ( 1 1/2 " to 3"). Slot in top could be aligned once, leveled occasionally. Top aligns on drop in and latch down if magnetic hold is insufficient. The videos don't show a hinged top getting in the way and a lot of the sandpaper changes occur without tipping the top up. A removable top is suggested to decrease the weight of the components and increase accessibility.
The 1/2 " of static adjustability could be increased by relocating the hanger bolts to the dust rails or the external stability rails where the guide holes for the hanger bolt tops aren't limited to the 3/4 in thickness of the top.
The way tubes and ?1 3/4" ? diameter semicircles in the "end" panels would orient the case consistently and oncenter if the case end panels are cut accurately and held in place by tightening a case hold down (1 x 2 ) under the Way Tubes.
****** I am very interested in experiences building the sanding cylinders ( cylinder material, velcro, and the behavior of the sanding dust. ***** The $258 that PKNI spent to get to a working sander should encourage everyone to build their version of a V drum sander!
MK V 520; MK V 510 w/PP DIY Upgrade; MK 5 500; Jointer; Bandsaw; Sliding Table; Conical Sanding Disk; Sharpening Guide, Lathe Duplicator, Jigsaw, Scrollsaw, Beltsander, Ring Master, Biscuit Joiner.
