edma194 wrote: ↑Wed May 19, 2021 12:54 pm
Why not use the main table for the additional support?
In some earlier posts I show just that.
However sometimes I don't have my main table mounted and it is far quicker to just put this support in and away I go. I have not needed the support for the small router or sander but with this new phase I think it might be useful. The midsized router is quite a bit heavier.
I also use the main table as a surface for an adjustable height place to set tape boards when using the Shaper Origin. In fact this was the first use of the mft extension table set up.
Ed
{Knight of the Shopsmith} [Hero's don't wear capes, they wear dog tags]
JPG wrote: ↑Wed May 19, 2021 12:34 pm
SS decided to provide that by way of the SPT mount or Main table front/rear tubes.
SS also provided an adaptation of their Over Arm Router (or Pin Router) that mounts on the Mark series as a vertical or horizontal router. Nick demo'd this in several of the sawdust sessions.
- David
I have the older version of the over head router and had even thought about getting the shopsmith mounted one for the added versatility but they discontinued it before that could happen. I guess they just didn't sell well at the price point they had. They seem to be a misunderstood tool and as such they just don't sell well. I know I love mine!
Ed
{Knight of the Shopsmith} [Hero's don't wear capes, they wear dog tags]
Hobbyman2 wrote: ↑Wed May 19, 2021 2:34 pm
Thanks DLB
Note taken
A over head router is limited in its use ,mainly height , just like a panta router has its limits ,the length and dimension of its travel , I dont own one but I can think of at least three operations that they can not do with a fixed bed and or buying a slew of router bits, fixed router tables also have their limits , a tilting router bed cutting from the under side would do what others cant do ,would it have limits ?? sure but what doesn't ? and you could get away with fewer bits , for instance you could chose a angle and use any straight bit , try to find a 22deg or non standard deg router bit ? not to mention its over 1/2 way built "{ with vertical height adjustments}" , the use of one of the micro adjustment devices for the height of the table could make such a thing a win win in my hobby shop .
The older pin router has a router above and below and the "pin" can be above or below. This gives it a lot of flexibility. Not sure what you are referring to on the height comment but I have never had any issues in that regard.
As far as a tilting router I too have one of those. Again not a cheap option but gives you some operations that are hard to duplicate with any other means. If you would like I can take some pictures of it and can check to see if they still make them. Obviously not a shopsmith thing.
Ed
{Knight of the Shopsmith} [Hero's don't wear capes, they wear dog tags]
Thanks Ed
like you know the height / depth can be adjusted with the router , but takes a while to make perfect micro adjustment , not sure how much molding or trim you have made with hardwood like hickory but having the ability to cut with the grain on both sides of a saw fence would be something new . I was all ways told and a lesson I try to live by , if you want to figure out how to cut and shape wood and how grain patterns on wood work ,start with hand tools , my last project involved doing just that , try using a stanley router plane to put on a bead going against the grain on hard wood with knots and irregularities , ya have to swap the fence to the other side of the cutters and work across the board and cut with the grain . the SS table and fence together with a router got me thinking . and by golly along came your post .
Hobbyman2 Favorite Quote: "If a man does his best, what else is there?"
- General George S. Patton (1885-1945)
I spent some time watching Doug Green videos last night on how to set the SS up in the shaper mode, I have actually done this with the MKV a long time back ,My results were not so impressive using the MKV , jmo , one point I could make is once the SS is in the drill press mode or the shaper mode it has to be restored to the horizontal position to make use of more than one application , many times I have set the SS MKV up for use in 2 different modes at the same time, I know the opposing end of the motor says for use with SPT only, that does not stop one from setting up for use in 2 applications , also shaper bits and router bits are not the same . the micro adjustment collar I referred to can be found here , https://www.amazon.com/Shopsmith-Adjust ... B07SM9X5NT
Hobbyman2 Favorite Quote: "If a man does his best, what else is there?"
- General George S. Patton (1885-1945)
reible wrote: ↑Wed May 19, 2021 3:30 pm
I have not needed the support for the small router or sander but with this new phase I think it might be useful. The midsized router is quite a bit heavier.
Supporting a heavy router is my concern for the future. I'm mounting a top from a Porter Cable router table on the table legs for a 500 so I can swap it out on my drill press for small router table. I have a couple of smaller routers that can handle just fine but my big Freud router is heavy but incredibly powerful and I'm afraid that wouldn't be stable enough.
You mentioned tilting a router also. Not sure what you would do with that but I have a Joint-Matic and with it's bevel miter gauge I can do all the angled cuts I could think of. For not too complicated routing I think using the SS headstock as a router with the table tilted should do about the same thing, but my plans are rather modest. I'll just be happy to have any router table set up to finish some outdoor end tables I started long ago.
Always interested in these things you do so keep doing them!
This is the router insert that lets you set up to a 45 degree angle to the router and thus the bit. It also has a method of changing the router bit height.
Thanks for the pictures ED
Your work looks great as all ways
the joint-matic is a separate machine so it would take up real-estate, especially in a small garage. just like a panta router set up it takes up space , you are right about the ss in the shaper mode and tilting the main table , one issue I have with my'n , while I dont see myself doing with out my SS, the old MKV will not match the same high speeds as my router and my MKV uses more electric . set up time is important , I dont believe the MKV table has teeth on both sides of the support legs so reversing the table like Doug did is a no go with out reversing the carriage as well . you mentioned you didnt understand why you would tilt a table with the router , I feel I work safer with small pieces with small bits on a router table than about any other machine except hand tools . again this is JMO
Hobbyman2 Favorite Quote: "If a man does his best, what else is there?"
- General George S. Patton (1885-1945)
Hobbyman2 wrote: ↑Fri May 21, 2021 10:19 am
Thanks for the pictures ED
Your work looks great as all ways
the joint-matic is a separate machine so it would take up real-estate, especially in a small garage. just like a panta router set up it takes up space , you are right about the ss in the shaper mode and tilting the main table , one issue I have with my'n , while I dont see myself doing with out my SS, the old MKV will not match the same high speeds as my router and my MKV uses more electric . set up time is important , I dont believe the MKV table has teeth on both sides of the support legs so reversing the table like Doug did is a no go with out reversing the carriage as well . you mentioned you didnt understand why you would tilt a table with the router , I feel I work safer with small pieces with small bits on a router table than about any other machine except hand tools . again this is JMO
The main table legs with racks on both sides are part of the Double-Tilt Upgrade or M7. I'm guessing here that they can be procured separately if one asks CS, PN is 522797. The kit is listed as 510/520 only, but I've read of people putting the legs on the earlier tables, in fact that is probably here on the forum. (Home-made DT is the budget option here. Reversing the carriage/table together is easy on a DT machine because you don't have to take the headstock off. I had issues with my new table legs and used this method several times while awaiting replacements.)
I get why you might want to occasionally tilt the table in relation to the router or shaper. Though I have the stand-alone SS OAR, I have been looking for the Mark-mounted version OAR for some time. I like the flexibility it gives you, and that it can leverage jigs and tooling for the main table. I've seen a couple come up for auction on CL but they sold for more than I was willing to pay at that time.
