Universal Lathe Tool Rest Banjo?

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ericwil76
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Universal Lathe Tool Rest Banjo?

Post by ericwil76 »

I am new here started turning on my dads old Mark V just recently made a pen and bowl plan on doing more in the future since I joined a turning club. My biggest complaint with the SS is the height and vibration when turning. I understand the UTR will help solve some of this but confused about what you get when you order it. My carriage looks different then the one in the catalog do you get the entire carriage and swiveling tool rest or just the swiveling tool rest? If so how does it mount to the carriage mine has no holes in the top and is not even flat can someone explain and post pics thanks.

The SS way tubes are hollow has anyone tried using solid round bars to replace the way tubes. This would add some serious mass to the SS and cut down on vibration possible. Locally I can get the round stock for cheap this would be a simple upgrade.

Tail stock issue, to much play when tightening up pieces any idea on how to keep the tail stock from flexing? Thinking of making something and bolting it directly to the way tubes.
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dusty
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Post by dusty »

ericwil76 wrote:I am new here started turning on my dads old Mark V just recently made a pen and bowl plan on doing more in the future since I joined a turning club. My biggest complaint with the SS is the height and vibration when turning. I understand the UTR will help solve some of this but confused about what you get when you order it. My carriage looks different then the one in the catalog do you get the entire carriage and swiveling tool rest or just the swiveling tool rest? If so how does it mount to the carriage mine has no holes in the top and is not even flat can someone explain and post pics thanks.

The SS way tubes are hollow has anyone tried using solid round bars to replace the way tubes. This would add some serious mass to the SS and cut down on vibration possible. Locally I can get the round stock for cheap this would be a simple upgrade.

Tail stock issue, to much play when tightening up pieces any idea on how to keep the tail stock from flexing? Thinking of making something and bolting it directly to the way tubes.

I can't find them right now but there have been several threads where the discussions involved ways to increase the mass of the Mark V for the purpose of reducing vibration (while turning).

The two most frequent suggestions have been to fill the tubes with concrete or sand. Sand bags (I would use something like concrete because it is heavier) have also been discussed.

If you can get properly dimensioned round stock, I know that you progress to incorporate it will be watched closely and I feel confident that you will get good results.

If you do this, please disclose your source for the stock..
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paulmcohen
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Post by paulmcohen »

ericwil76 wrote:I am new here started turning on my dads old Mark V just recently made a pen and bowl plan on doing more in the future since I joined a turning club. My biggest complaint with the SS is the height and vibration when turning. I understand the UTR will help solve some of this but confused about what you get when you order it. My carriage looks different then the one in the catalog do you get the entire carriage and swiveling tool rest or just the swiveling tool rest? If so how does it mount to the carriage mine has no holes in the top and is not even flat can someone explain and post pics thanks.

The UTR has two bolts and a long flat bar that secures it to your carriage, after removing everything else, without drilling holes.
ericwil76 wrote:Tail stock issue, to much play when tightening up pieces any idea on how to keep the tail stock from flexing? Thinking of making something and bolting it directly to the way tubes.
I have never seen my tailstock flex and I do a lot of turning. Are you using a live center for pens and a chuck for bowls?
Paul Cohen
Beaverton, OR
A 1982 500 Shopsmith brand upgraded to a Mark 7 PowerPro, Jointer, Bandsaw (with Kreg fence), Strip Sander, Ring Master and lots of accessories all purchased new
12" Sliding Compound Mitre Saw, 1200 CFM DC
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dusty
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Post by dusty »

Paul doesn't see his head rest flexing so maybe I don't have myself tuned in properly to what is being asked.

I believe may head rest does flex. In fact, every thing that I install in that end of the Mark V moves, in an unwanted direction, if pressure is applied.

The pictures that I have included here are not of the head rest; these pictures are of the extension table installed at that end of the Mark V but I stabilize the extension table the same way.

[ATTACH]7551[/ATTACH] [ATTACH]7552[/ATTACH]

The extension table when installed at the other end doesn't move. I have plans to turn a couple collars to be used in place of these wedges.
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rkh2
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Post by rkh2 »

ericwil76

I have the universal tool rest mounted on my SS right now as am in the middle of turning a baby rattle. I took a couple of pictures to show how it is mounted. I have a 510 converted to a 520 so not sure if the carriage is the same as what you have. There are two holes on the base of the tool rest which two long allen bolts drop down to an aluminum bar which has threads which the allen bolts tighten into. The pictures show the top side and what it looks like from looking up at the bottom side. Hope this explains a little about your question as far as how it mounts. I have had it for several years now and don't really have any issues with vibration or such. I have the speed reducer if I need to go to a slower speed for a large bowl or large stock but for my smaller projects I generally try to round my stock on the band-saw[ATTACH]7553[/ATTACH]

[ATTACH]7554[/ATTACH] as much as possible before I start turning it. Hope this helps.
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Ron from Lewisburg, TN
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Post by paulmcohen »

dusty wrote:Paul doesn't see his head rest flexing so maybe I don't have myself tuned in properly to what is being asked.

The flex you are seeing has to do with the long post, when turning there is no long post sticking down below from the tailstock. There is already a collar on the tailstock and I use two one on each post and that may be preventing the flexing.
Paul Cohen
Beaverton, OR
A 1982 500 Shopsmith brand upgraded to a Mark 7 PowerPro, Jointer, Bandsaw (with Kreg fence), Strip Sander, Ring Master and lots of accessories all purchased new
12" Sliding Compound Mitre Saw, 1200 CFM DC
iclark
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Post by iclark »

rkh2 wrote:I have the universal tool rest mounted on my SS right now as am in the middle of turning a baby rattle.
Ron,

please consider starting a thread and walking us through the process of making one of those baby rattles. I bought the chisel set to cut the rings, but it has been a while since I saw one of those rattles in person (used to buy them in Burlington, VT, as presents). details like the proper dimensions for the rattle to be baby friendly and how to sharpen the ring cutting chisels would be wonderful.

also, with the universal tool rest mounted, what is the maximum bowl diameter that you can turn?

thanks,
Ivan
Mark V (84) w/ jigsaw, belt sander, strip sander
ER10 awaiting restoration
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dusty
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Post by dusty »

paulmcohen wrote:The flex you are seeing has to do with the long post, when turning there is no long post sticking down below from the tailstock. There is already a collar on the tailstock and I use two one on each post and that may be preventing the flexing.


You are absolutely correct, Paul but the flex does still exist. Install the tailstock and grab a hold of it at the top and push and pull. Do you can feel any movement?

If no, then I am absolutely wrong. If yes, I might still be absolutely wrong. Maybe that movement (it is slight) is of no consequence. I am not a turner (though I do use my lathe from time to time) so maybe I just do not get it.
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rkh2
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Post by rkh2 »

Ivan

I will try to get some pictures of the different stages of making the rattle and post them when I get them organized. As for how big of a bowl can you turn with the UTR, I am not sure but I would think that it would not reduce too much the diameter compared to without using the UTR. I really like using the UTR as it makes it so easy to adjust the tool rest to different positions and I would be lost without it.
Ron from Lewisburg, TN
dkerfoot
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Post by dkerfoot »

I get some flex too. I think the key is that once tension is put on it, it stays still. I do bowls more than spindles though...

If you have a model from before - I think - 1984 or so, you probably have a single bearing quill. Newer ones have two bearings and have much reduced runout.

I always leave my bandsaw attached to add mass to the lathe. But if you are getting a lot of vibration the best option is to slow the speed down.

The Universal rest does not reduce the size of a bowl you can make, but the lowest speed does. I turned a 12" bowl from green wood before getting my speed reducer. It worked, but was unpleasant and scary. At that speed, the shavings feel like needles hitting your hand. Right after that I sprang for the speed reducer if that tells you anything.

Turning a 16" bowl at 700 rpm would be suicidal.
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