reible wrote:Some years back on another forum we we discussing the subject of how to add some weight to the shopsmith. I tried to find it but had no luck so I checked some notes I took at the time.
Ed,
do you happen to recall if anyone in that thread discussed the merits/issues with melting lead and casting it into the bench tubes?
putting freeze plugs in the way tubes and filling them with shot would not add as much mass but would probably do better at damping vibration (like a dead blow hammer).
Ivan
Mark V (84) w/ jigsaw, belt sander, strip sander
ER10 awaiting restoration
ericwil76 wrote:I watched the SS video and went out and pulled the quill it is a two bearing but the second bearing has some play in it for sure and there is some slap back and forth on top of the run-out on the second bearing. This could still be within normal tolerance for the SS not sure but seems to much to me. Should this be rock solid and smooth with no perceivable run-out or slap let me know. The front bearing I can not induce any run-out by hand but can on the tail end just be rocking the shaft back and forth its slight but it is there.
Keep in mind the lever arm lengths you are dealing with. The splined shaft will 'wobble' at the extreme end away from the bearing(s) since a very small wiggle at the bearings becomes much larger at distances away from them.
Also keep in mind the splined shaft is confined at that end by the drive shaft and nylon hub.
Regarding the casters - An option was a caster set that could be lowered to move the ss that also raised to allow setting on floor while 'using' it. If yours has casters, the foot crank needs to be stepped on to allow the casters to re-position. There are three positions - on floor, raised slightly, raised more. There is a crank on each foot. If yours does not have casters, disregard.
╔═══╗
╟JPG ╢
╚═══╝
Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
ericwil76 wrote:I am not sure what someone meant by casters down though.
when the SS is standing on the casters so that you can roll it around, the casters are down. for the current purposes, the middle and lowest positions are both down.
when the SS is sitting with the legs (solidly) on the floor, the casters are up. if the floor is not flat or the SS base is twisted, then it can also rock and cause problems. one either has to find a flat spot, shim one foot, or take the twist out of the base. (no offense intended by stating stuff you already know).
if you can put the SS anywhere you want on your garage floor with no rocking, then the set screws holding the bench tubes are probably a little loose.
Ivan
(and I see that jpg types faster than I do:-) )
Mark V (84) w/ jigsaw, belt sander, strip sander
ER10 awaiting restoration
The discussion on lead I know was on the ssug.org site perhaps a year or two ago, pre the software changes and maybe be lost. I'll check and see if I can locate it but I have very little luck finding anything for the old days there.
I believe we did think the best would be shot as that works for damping. I've wanted to do that to my vertical twin motorcycle handle bars. I think I still have the information were someone had taken the time to test various size shot.
Shot of course is less dense then poured lead and I think we even had that difference accounted for. There was also discussion about obtaining lead shot in bulk and the state of the DNR stand on using lead shot for hunting or even target shooting. Can't remember the details now.
If I find anything I'll post back here.
Ed
iclark wrote:Ed,
do you happen to recall if anyone in that thread discussed the merits/issues with melting lead and casting it into the bench tubes?
putting freeze plugs in the way tubes and filling them with shot would not add as much mass but would probably do better at damping vibration (like a dead blow hammer).
Ivan
{Knight of the Shopsmith} [Hero's don't wear capes, they wear dog tags]
You will need to read into the posting until you get to more of the details, I want to do that reading too but I've some other irons in the fire now... I also want to see how much of this I do remember....
Ed
iclark wrote:Ed,
do you happen to recall if anyone in that thread discussed the merits/issues with melting lead and casting it into the bench tubes?
putting freeze plugs in the way tubes and filling them with shot would not add as much mass but would probably do better at damping vibration (like a dead blow hammer).
Ivan
{Knight of the Shopsmith} [Hero's don't wear capes, they wear dog tags]
thanks. I'm headed to do some reading while it snows outside.
Ivan
ps: for others headed there, it took me an embarrassingly long time to remember that some of the SSUG threads run backwards from here: the older messages are at the bottom of the page.
Mark V (84) w/ jigsaw, belt sander, strip sander
ER10 awaiting restoration
reible wrote:Some years back on another forum we we discussing the subject of how to add some weight to the shopsmith. I tried to find it but had no luck so I checked some notes I took at the time.
Keep in mind this is general information. The assumption was that the tubes are all 4 feet long. The closest tube we could find was 1-7/8 OD by 1.499 ID. A 4 foot section of this weighs in at 13.55 pounds. We never had anyone weigh a shopsmith tube so this has to be taken for what it worth.
The next stop was finding round stock of the right size. Struck out there but did find that round stock that is 1-1/2" by 4 feet weighs 32.72 pounds, when you get to 2" it was 42.7 pounds. I guess you can do the math to get the weight for the correct size tube but without the math lets say 35 pounds.
Now unless you never want to raise the headstock this means you will only want to do the bottom tubes. The two existing would be about 27 pounds and if you replace them they would be about 70 pounds or an increase of 43 pounds.
Now we are talking cold roll 1045 steel and a 4 foot section of 2" would cost about $55, a 1-1/2 was $50. If you could find the correct size it might be in that range as well so expect to spend about $100 for the metal. Heaven forbid if you were to have is shipped... add another $30 or more as a guess.
Most of these places that sell cut sections are in the +/- 1/4" range so you will more then likely have to re-cut it to size it.
Anyway a few more things for you to think about.
Ed
If you really want to do this adding sand to existing tube seems like a such easier solution, even filling the existing tube with some lead may be possible or inserting a tube within the existing tube assuming you can get a tight fit.
Paul Cohen
Beaverton, OR
A 1982 500 Shopsmith brand upgraded to a Mark 7 PowerPro, Jointer, Bandsaw (with Kreg fence), Strip Sander, Ring Master and lots of accessories all purchased new
12" Sliding Compound Mitre Saw, 1200 CFM DC
I think that one of the best ways to add a little weight is to add a lower shelf or even cabinet that will keep the weight down low and also tie the lower part of the legs together from end to end. If you use a dense wood about 2 inches thick just the shelf itself would add a fair amount of weight. With my work habits the shelf would quickly accumulate a hundred pounds of "stuff".
And... It is a woodworking project.
The shelf could also be used to hold something like sandbags. In discussions on the big old SS list, that I left some time ago, I think that one person was using cloth bags with bulk lead shot rather than sand. I like weight adding methods that are always easy to add or remove. In my case I would probably use tractor wheel weights (about 75 to 100 pounds each). You could also use those now unused barbell weights.
--
farmer
Francis Robinson
I did not equip with Shopsmiths in spite of the setups but because of them.
1 1988 - Mark V 510 (bought new), 4 Poly vee 1 1/8th HP Mark V's, Mark VII, 1 Mark V Mini, 1 Frankensmith, 1 10-ER, 1 Mark V Push-me-Pull-me Drillpress, SS bandsaw, belt sander, jointer, jigsaw, shaper attach, mortising attach, TS-3650 Rigid tablesaw, RAS, 6" long bed jointer, Foley/Belsaw Planer/molder/ripsaw, 1" sander, oscillating spindle/belt sander, Scroll saw, Woodmizer sawmill
robinson46176 wrote:
The shelf could also be used to hold something like sandbags. In discussions on the big old SS list, that I left some time ago, I think that one person was using cloth bags with bulk lead shot rather than sand. I like weight adding methods that are always easy to add or remove. In my case I would probably use tractor wheel weights (about 75 to 100 pounds each). You could also use those now unused barbell weights.
This is a GREAT IDEA!! But don't use those barbell weights. Start using those barbells again to do some good for your heart, back, arms and general good health.
A lower shelf would be a wonderful place for your thickness planer. Of course you could leave room on the shelf for the HF 2,000 lb. electric winch to help lift the planer up to the tail stock, while you work up your strength with the barbells.
Octogenarian's have an earned right to be a curmudgeon.
Chuck in Lancaster, CA
I plan on replacing the way tubes with solid stock and am seriosuly considering removing the metal legs and casting some concrete blocks to raise and steady the SS. I only use this for turning so I am not concerned about moving it or any other functions. The cast concrete blocks as bases is just to cheap a fix to make this SS rocks solid. Hmmmmmm. If they ever hit with the power pro head then this would be super interesting. I do not believe Shopsmith will suprise anybody with an affordable power pro unfortunetly.
