straighting an edge

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james.miller
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Post by james.miller »

When jointing the edge of a long board after I cut it I prefer to use a router with a long straight edge and a spiral bit to take a light pass to clean it up.
Jim in Tucson
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Ed in Tampa
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Post by Ed in Tampa »

james.miller wrote:When jointing the edge of a long board after I cut it I prefer to use a router with a long straight edge and a spiral bit to take a light pass to clean it up.

Check how it is done by the festool rep http://www.woodshopdemos.com/fes-53.htm
When cut this way the two boards edges are mirror images of each other.
Ed
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dusty
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Straightening an Edge

Post by dusty »

ed, you sound like a Festool traveling salesman.:rolleyes:

I have no bones with Festool or any other tool manufacturer for that matter. For me, this discussion is just like the Sand Flee thread. These are just tools that I no longer need to add to my inventory. I have those tools that I need to do the work that I do.

I am a simple, old home craftsman who does not need a lot of new tools. I
just hope that no one passes any legislation that prohibits me from using these that I have.

There are many good ways to straighten a crowned board - several have been mentioned here. I'll continue to use the method I have used for years unless someone gives me a Festool system. Then, I will use it exclusively.

This reminds me, I need a new blade for my circular saw. The cut I get is a long way from being ready for glue up. The blades about five years old, guess it's about time.:)
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Ed in Tampa
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Post by Ed in Tampa »

dusty wrote:ed, you sound like a Festool traveling salesman.:rolleyes:

I have no bones with Festool or any other tool manufacturer for that matter. For me, this discussion is just like the Sand Flee thread. These are just tools that I no longer need to add to my inventory. I have those tools that I need to do the work that I do.

I am a simple, old home craftsman who does not need a lot of new tools. I
just hope that no one passes any legislation that prohibits me from using these that I have.

There are many good ways to straighten a crowned board - several have been mentioned here. I'll continue to use the method I have used for years unless someone gives me a Festool system. Then, I will use it exclusively.

This reminds me, I need a new blade for my circular saw. The cut I get is a long way from being ready for glue up. The blades about five years old, guess it's about time.:)
Dusty
I apologize if I came off as a Festool pitch man. I believe in the functionality of these tools but these tools like so many others entering the market today carry such a huge price tags that there is no way I can justify to myself their purchase. Although I continue to try.

However if I was just entering woodworking and didn't own a fairly large selection of hand and power tools and I knew then what I know now I think probably be even more tempted to become the proud owner of a complete Festool shop. However I'm like you an old dog and frankly I'm amazed how younger people seem to be willing to spend what I consider large sums of money for things (tools, cars, houses and etc.) that to me simply can't be justified costing that much or being worth that much. People have completely forgotten the concept of supply and demand, instead they run after the lastest and what marketing calls the greatest.

That does not stop me from going to the Woodcraft store and drooling all over the Festool displays. I know I have a desire to figure a way to justify their purchase but as of yet I can't get past my own limitations.
Ed
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rkh2
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Post by rkh2 »

Ed in Tampa
I agree in what you said. I have used the Festool Sanding & dust collection system while taking a class at woodcraft and was very impressed with both items, however I guess you could say I am a "Chevy" person who would really like the "Rolls Royce" but can neither justify it or afford it. My Shopsmith and power tools I have gets the job done for me and building jigs for doing straight cuts or whatever gives me enjoyment and satisfaction.

charlese - Thanks for posting the pictures of the Circular saw guide you made. I like that concept. I will have to make one as that is better than a 2 x 4 with clamps which I have used in the past.
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Ed in Tampa
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Post by Ed in Tampa »

rkh2 wrote:Ed in Tampa
I agree in what you said. I have used the Festool Sanding & dust collection system while taking a class at woodcraft and was very impressed with both items, however I guess you could say I am a "Chevy" person who would really like the "Rolls Royce" but can neither justify it or afford it. My Shopsmith and power tools I have gets the job done for me and building jigs for doing straight cuts or whatever gives me enjoyment and satisfaction.

charlese - Thanks for posting the pictures of the Circular saw guide you made. I like that concept. I will have to make one as that is better than a 2 x 4 with clamps which I have used in the past.
Rkh2
The funny thing there are tons and tons of Chevy guys with Rolls Royce tastes that are being ignored. Think about it, any circular saw manufacture today could add a guide groove to their saw's base plate, zero clearance inserts and effective dust collection system to their saw for next to nothing.

If they made their guide groove or slot conform to Festool or Ez guide standards they would sell a ton of their saws. Do the same for their Router, powered hand planers and sanders and they have entered a market that presently is only dreamed of by the Chevy guys.

Even if they made the guide groove unique manufacting of extruded aluminum guide rails is simple and relatively cheap.

The problem is too many tool manufactures have not had to be innovative they were able to sell their tools with little change or new engineering. They are lazy, now companies like Festool and EZ guide come on the market and instead of waking up they would rather try to discredit the idea.

One of the things I really liked about SS in the 80's and early 90's was they were innovative. They came out with better ideas to accomplish old tasks.

If I were Shopsmith with their knowledge of working with aluminum and manufacturing capabilities I would jump into this arena in a heart beat. Everyone knows safety and environmental standards are going to keep getting tighter. Why wait until you can't sell your existing machines to change? Do it now and learn how to do it better and cheaper than the next guy.

The whole concept of the guided tool system is a perfect complement to the existing Shopsmith line. If done correctly the guided tool system could actually be incorporated into the SS and strengthen both.
Ed
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Post by 8iowa »

re: Getting a straight edge on a board. I have a lot of rough sawn white pine boards around 8 ft long, many still have some bark on the edges. After cross cutting them to rough length for a particular project, I mark a straight chauk line along the edge and then use the bandsaw.

With a wide 1/2 or 5/8 inch blade I can quickly cut a surprising straight line, then clean it up later on the jointer. There are a lot of good ways to do this using our basic Shopsmith tools.
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Ed in Tampa
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Post by Ed in Tampa »

8iowa wrote:re: Getting a straight edge on a board. I have a lot of rough sawn white pine boards around 8 ft long, many still have some bark on the edges. After cross cutting them to rough length for a particular project, I mark a straight chauk line along the edge and then use the bandsaw.

With a wide 1/2 or 5/8 inch blade I can quickly cut a surprising straight line, then clean it up later on the jointer. There are a lot of good ways to do this using our basic Shopsmith tools.
8iowa

There are a lot of good ways to do this using our basic Shopsmith tools.

Sure there is! And I don't think anyone is saying it can't be done. However is it the best way? I wonder what the guys that stood in the saw pit sawing wood all day said when they saw the first saw power saw?

I saw an old world craftsman rip an 8 foot or long board using a hand rip saw (which he sharpens myself by hand) in the about the time it would take me to get my Shopsmith out and set up. He then perfected the edge with a hand plane. I think he took a swipe or two then ran the plane along the whole edge to sweeten the cut. He actually laughed when I offered to rip the boards for him.
By the way the shaving from his plane was thin enough to see light through and perfectly uniform and exact length of the board. I actually kept the shaving for awhile admiring it and showing people what a real woodworker can do. You heard of term "scarey sharp" well his planes were "brings a tear to the eye sharp".

To get back to my thought sure this can be done many many ways but for each of us to grow in woodworking we have be willing to explore new and perhaps better ways. Had the craftsman before refused to do this we would still be ripping wood standing in the bottom of a saw pit.
Ed
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dusty
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Straightening an Edge

Post by dusty »

Ed in Tampa wrote:Dusty
I apologize if I came off as a Festool pitch man. I believe in the functionality of these tools but these tools like so many others entering the market today carry such a huge price tags that there is no way I can justify to myself their purchase.
Ed
ED, there is NO apology due here. First of all, I took what you were saying 'out of context' and secondly, we each have a right to our own differing opinions. I exercise my right frequently.

I have been giving a lot of thought to how I might better guide my circular saw. I've even tried a couple of attachments to the face of my circular saw. Nothing ever felt right so I don't have a prototype to offer but it does show that I am intrigued by the concept.
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Ed in Tampa
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Post by Ed in Tampa »

dusty wrote:ED, there is NO apology due here. First of all, I took what you were saying 'out of context' and secondly, we each have a right to our own differing opinions. I exercise my right frequently.

I have been giving a lot of thought to how I might better guide my circular saw. I've even tried a couple of attachments to the face of my circular saw. Nothing ever felt right so I don't have a prototype to offer but it does show that I am intrigued by the concept.

Dusty
Before you wear yourself out check out http://www.eurekazone.com/
Which is the Easy guide site. They manufacture a plate that you afix to the bottom of your saw, then using their guides accomplish the same thing the Festool does. The plate with inserts is around $35 but then you need a guide rail which costs around $33 for a 18" section up to a couple hundred for the longest one. They also make connectors so you can join two rails together.

They have put together various packages but they have the SGS-1 which gives your the plate, four zero clearance inserts two 50" guide rails and connectors, plus clamps for $208. This gives you everything you need to handle 4x8 sheet ply.

Another package called the Freedom package gives you the above, plus a guide system for your router, a circle cutting jig for your router and really slick cutting table that gives you complete support for 4x8 plus folds up into a very compact size. That package is priced as $399

The owner of the company will work with you to help you make the dust collection for your saw as efficient as possible.

If you go to the site be sure to click on "resources" and then check out the videos and pictures of the Ezguide in action. They have pages of videos and pictures to help you better understand the concept.

Ed
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